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Bespoke overcoat: worth it?

post #1 of 111
Thread Starter 
Well, I'm going to need a coat to wear over my suits and sportcoats sooner or later. But unlike suits and sportcoats, I imagine the fit does not need to be as particular. So the question is whether it is worth getting one made bespoke, which would be much pricier, or if I would be better off going MTM through a place like Brooks Brothers or J. Press. Thoughts?
post #2 of 111
Having tasted the Milanese drape cut, do you still find Brooks suit jackets to be comfortable? If so, you will doubtless be well-satisfied with their overcoats.
post #3 of 111
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Concordia View Post
Having tasted the Milanese drape cut, do you still find Brooks suit jackets to be comfortable? If so, you will doubtless be well-satisfied with their overcoats.

Milanese? Didn't you hear, I'm a Naples troll?
post #4 of 111
I routinely see cashmere overcoats from high end makers in 36 and 38 (around your size, I'm assuming). Just do RTW or MTM.
post #5 of 111
I have thought about it. I cannot justify it. Like you I am building the wardrobe basics and I simply do not spend enough time in my coat to pay the extra cheese. MTM, done deal.
post #6 of 111
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post
Well, I'm going to need a coat to wear over my suits and sportcoats sooner or later. But unlike suits and sportcoats, I imagine the fit does not need to be as particular. So the question is whether it is worth getting one made bespoke, which would be much pricier, or if I would be better off going MTM through a place like Brooks Brothers or J. Press. Thoughts?


Wrong-o. IMO the fit of an overcoat is as important as that of a suit - assuming you want it to be "fitted". If you're just looking for a loose covering, OTR has any number of selections. I, for one, am completely dissatisfied with the fit of RTW overcoats. Sheesh, it looks like I gained 20 pounds! ( and it's all in the lousy cut)
post #7 of 111
Do you have any design in mind? Were I to bespeak an overcoat, it would be a spectacular thing unlike what can found on the rack. That, to me, would be the impetus, rather than fit.
post #8 of 111
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by yachtie View Post
Wrong-o. IMO the fit of an overcoat is as important as that of a suit - assuming you want it to be "fitted". If you're just looking for a loose covering, OTR has any number of selections. I, for one, am completely dissatisfied with the fit of RTW overcoats. Sheesh, it looks like I gained 20 pounds! ( and it's all in the lousy cut)

Well, I figured that MTM might help in that regard. RTW won't work for me in all likelihood.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DocHolliday View Post
Do you have any design in mind? Were I to bespeak an overcoat, it would be a spectacular thing unlike what can found on the rack. That, to me, would be the impetus, rather than fit.

Not really, but if I did go bespoke, I would certainly think about it.
post #9 of 111
A bespoke overcoat is well worth it. Finding satisfactory fitted overcoats that will still accommodate a suit underneath is a pretty big challenge. I'd post mine, but it's too damn hot to even look at.
post #10 of 111
I'm probably talking to the wrong person here, but I have two SB pure cashmere overcoats, in navy and camel, from Baroni, made in Italy, which fit me superbly. They are under $500 I think which is astonishing. I'm a 40R in my Cornelianis, Carusos and so on and sized down to a 38R for the Baroni. It is wonderfully light and fits me perfectly. The material is gorgeous and the design very understated, but of course if you don't want a Baroni hanging in your wardrobe, you'll have to go elsewhere and pay much more for the same result.
post #11 of 111
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post
Milanese? Didn't you hear, I'm a Naples troll?


Whatever. Foreign.

Don't stint on the coat after your basic needs are covered. You'll appreciate it every time you wear it-- and it will get more wear than a suit in cold weather. And don't bother to go nuts on the style. Good cut and workmanship are enough.
post #12 of 111
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post
Milanese? Didn't you hear, I'm a Naples troll?

If so, then why not try Panico. I'm sure MR wouldn't notice.

RL Blue label makes a better overcoat than the two you've mentioned, however.
post #13 of 111
The price paid for high quality bespoke is always worth it.
post #14 of 111
Quote:
Originally Posted by kcc View Post
RL Blue label makes a better overcoat than the two you've mentioned, however.

The old USA made Polo overcoats are particularly fantastic.

Mafoo - what have you been wearing all this time in Chicago?
post #15 of 111
I love mine, but I only get to wear it a couple of times a year. I think that it will be worth it if my size doesn't change over time, because I sure as hell won't wear it out. I agree with Yachtie that you will see a big difference.
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