Just received my first Jantzen shirt! Critique help please

Good Morning everyone,

I just received my first Jantzen shirt and I am happy to report that it is quite close to being a perfect fit! I know I want to extend the sleeves a bit (I was thinking an inch, opinions?)

I also want to have the cuffs made a bit bigger the cuffs, but I am not sure how much. They fit right now, but just snugly. You'll notice that I have a link in the right cuff, and not in the left in the pictures.

I think that I have read around here that there is a way to prevent wrinkling in the elbow by making the arm a bit larger. How do I tell Ricky what I want to make that happen? I was amazed at how quickly that area was completely wrinkled.

Sorry for all of the shirt wrinkles, I had been wearing it all day.

Unfortunately, the flash is killing me in these pics, hopefully you folks can disregard the shadows.
















Thanks in advance!

the yoke is too large.
needed shortening by at least an inch.
you also have a low shoulder.
it also looks like your shoulders maybe different sizes as well. so that the yoke might need to be made at different sizes for each size

Carl

Hmmm.. I'll let others help on specifics - moving from the 85% level to the 95% level is quite difficult through over seas communication. Trying to explain the yoke, shoulder slope, drape, etc. without being in their shop is a huge obstacle...

I will say that this is an amazing advertisement on the importance of fabric selection.

Fit is the most important, but if your shirt wrinkles like that it throws off the whole image... my eyes cannot get past them.

Just what I thought myself. Before I buy a shirt, I usually grab it and see how it wrinkles - or doesn't. If there are too many wrinkles, I won't buy it. I'm only buying wrinkle-free and non-iron shirts. Somehow, I'm sure it's going to be a hell of a job to iron the one you're wearing.

Schnurre, valid point - non-iron/wrinkle-free shirts are one alternative.

I'd cast my vote for Alumo and TM Goldline... I have thinner sleeves for a more slim fit and both fabrics look great at the end of the day. That's with working at the computer, running to meetings, active movement... I start the day at 5am and sometimes finish around 8pm - still looks great.

Just my two cents : )

non-iron/wrinkle-free shirts are one alternative.
I would sooner sell a high end cotton/poly fabric.. And yes, there are a couple of mills in Europe that produce 70c/30p that is quite respectable.

Carl

You gents raise a good point about wrinkling. What all cotton fabrics types are best for avoiding wrinkles?

Btw, the shirt fits well, though I personally prefer a more fitted waist. If it were me, I'd take in the waist an inch.

Looking at the pics again, I'd add the check could be more fitted as well. That coule come in an inch also.

Looks like everyone has added their helpful 2cents. I'd say that: 1. Increase the overall length of the shirt by about 2 inches. I had shirts made with a similar length (comparatively speaking with the length of the sleeves) and I have about exactly 1 inch tucked after all the daily motions. 2. The sleeve length looks fine, no need to change it if you keep the current shoulder width 3. The shoulder width is slightly too long. I'd decrease by .5-.75 of an inch to the overall width with shrink allowance taking into account. 4. Chest is too wide. You can easily tell by the extra fabric stuffed under your armpits. You may want to provide actual measurements of the shirt rather than measurements of your body and ask them to adjust according to desired fit. The former method tends to produce a better and more consistent wearing shirt. You can really use a tighter fit, with maybe two darts to the sides. 5. Waist also too wide.

I'm no expert on these things but on the few Janzten pics I have seen it doesn't seem worth the effort; I haven't looked into the cost. It seems rtw shirts tend to fit better than the Janzten shirts inspite of all the effort to send in specs.

Perhaps all the personal input as to measurements, fabric, etc., creates too much room for error while a ready-to-wear takes most of the assumptions out of the process most clothes buyers are not used to thinking about. Based on the pics submitee, I would feel more at risk for a funky shirt ordering from Jansten than a quality ready to wear company.

Does this make sense?

Rob

Originally Posted by rob

Click to expand...

I'm no expert on these things but on the few Janzten pics I have seen it doesn't seem worth the effort; I haven't looked into the cost. It seems rtw shirts tend to fit better than the Janzten shirts inspite of all the effort to send in specs.

Perhaps all the personal input as to measurements, fabric, etc., creates too much room for error while a ready-to-wear takes most of the assumptions out of the process most clothes buyers are not used to thinking about. Based on the pics submitee, I would feel more at risk for a funky shirt ordering from Jansten than a quality ready to wear company.

Does this make sense?

Rob

after receiving my shirt, I would disagree. I feel that the shirt looks better in person than in the pics. I also think that it is my best fitting shirt currently, despite the flaws listed, I think that it fits pretty well. I have quite a few OTR shirts that I have had tailored, that still don't fit as well.

I would also say that despite the wrinkling, the fabric quality is quite nice, as are the buttons. I think that the effort was worth it, and for $50, I would order another few even if I couldn't change the measurements.

Thank you to everyone that has critiqued so far.

BTW, I selected the "Form" Fit(4-6" allowance). I may try a "tight" fit (2-4" allowance) next time, although I worry that the arms will be way too skinny if I do that.

Does anyone have recommendations on how to convey these changes to Ricky? Should I email my next order?

^best way is to call ricky, if you want immediate results and the most lucid communication of what you want.

rob - these shirts cost approximately $50 USD after monogramming and MOP buttons, which is a steal compared to RTW shirts at $100+ a shirt not including alterations. after a few initial trial shirts and you "perfect" your measurements, cranking them out at $50 a pop is most likely the best value for your money on the planet. fabric quality leaves a little to be desired, however i've received quite a few beautiful fabrics (120's) with incredibly soft drape from ricky's shop.

I would agree with stickonatree.

This is good value for money.

Improvements can be made, it is really hard to get wrinkle free 100% cotton at affordable prices though. And ideally thats the way they should be.

Originally Posted by stickonatree

Click to expand...

^best way is to call ricky, if you want immediate results and the most lucid communication of what you want.

rob - these shirts cost approximately $50 USD after monogramming and MOP buttons, which is a steal compared to RTW shirts at $100+ a shirt not including alterations. after a few initial trial shirts and you "perfect" your measurements, cranking them out at $50 a pop is most likely the best value for your money on the planet. fabric quality leaves a little to be desired, however i've received quite a few beautiful fabrics (120's) with incredibly soft drape from ricky's shop.

Stick have you found that any "types" of fabrics from them tend to wrinkle less than others from them?

Has anyone sent pictures of themselves in the first shirt to Ricky to explain what they want?