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The Anderson & Sheppard Expatriates Thread - Page 6

post #76 of 2438
Quote:
Originally Posted by voxsartoria View Post
Couple more full body DeBoise silhouettes:





- B

Really looks great, the grey nicer than black, and the orange PS makes it pop! and come alive.
post #77 of 2438
Quote:
Originally Posted by M. Alden View Post
The LL tweeds, including the Alden gunclub, are tweeds and not worsteds made to look like tweeds. I suspect the confusion stems from the association of tweed with the hairy, woolly, loosely woven variants from Harris or Shetland. The other style of tweed, known as "border" or "sporting" is equally tweed, a woolen spun Cheviot with a high twist finish that gives it a less hairy look. Examples of these "estate" tweeds can be seen in many border weavers' works and in the once available tweeds from Hunters of Brora.

Worsteds made to look like tweeds do exist. One of the well known examples is the excellent Glorious Twelfth book from Harrisons. This is a merino wool worsted spun cloth ie one in which the short staple length fibers have been combed out to give a flat and lustrous sheen.

Sporting tweeds are normally machine woven and this picture from the londonlounge site attests to the fact.

http://thelondonlounge.net/gl/forum/...hlight=gunclub

Such machines are required to produce the twist sought for by gentlemen that require a solid, long wearing product. Harris tweed cloth is also made on machines but machines operated manually and are they are consequently more loosely woven. These tweeds make up in charm what they lack in staying power.

An experienced bespoke customer is normally alert to the use of the word "handmade" and realizes that this appellation can have value if applied to such acts as stitching, sewing, pressing, or carving, engraving, sculpting etc. Using one's hands to run a sewing machine or a manual loom is another thing entirely.

There are some good Shetland products on the market and the ones from Scabal pictured in this thread deserve particular merit. I too have had my eyes on the gunclub but for the time being I am expecting delivery on a brown herringbone from this book. At the clothclub, we have issued our first Shetland cloth and I had a chance to fit it this week.

http://thelondonlounge.net/gl/forum/...pic.php?t=7902

I think our members will be very pleased.

M Alden

very useful info ! thank you !
post #78 of 2438
Quote:
Originally Posted by academe View Post
Vox-

I love the look of those soft shoulders by the way... Just had a quick question about the fabric of your tweed suit. What weight is it and which textile company? I know you may have mentioned this before but I seem to have missed it...

somehow I had a feeling that the A&S silhouette look quite differently on White guys and Asian, the length and the chest esp
post #79 of 2438
Quote:
Originally Posted by novqilin View Post
somehow I had a feeling that the A&S silhouette look quite differently on White guys and Asian, the length and the chest esp

How so? I think the silhouette would look slightly different depending on a particular individual's build... Andre Yew is a member here who is a Mahon climate. May want to see if you can dig-up photos of his garments for comparison...
post #80 of 2438
SB silhoutte. A bit "roomy" compared to what I get in NY, or what I see posted from Italy, but very, very comfortable.

post #81 of 2438
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by novqilin View Post
somehow I had a feeling that the A&S silhouette look quite differently on White guys and Asian, the length and the chest esp

It is possible that different bespoke makers might have styles that are most suitable for one build or another, and by approximate generalization, for men from different parts of the globe. For example, it is often asserted that aspects of how the Italians adapted SR style for their own interpretations pre WWII included solutions for a shorter build.

That being said, there are tall, short, slim, fat, long-legged, long-torsoed people everywhere (but we hope, not all of these qualities at once...). I think that most good bespoke makers can adapt to a wide range of body type.

Quote:
Originally Posted by academe View Post
How so? I think the silhouette would look slightly different depending on a particular individual's build... Andre Yew is a member here who is a Mahon climate. May want to see if you can dig-up photos of his garments for comparison...

Andre posted a shot of one of his DB suits earlier in the thread.

- B
post #82 of 2438
Andre Yew is Asian? I thought he was named after the tree.
post #83 of 2438
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post
Andre Yew is Asian? I thought he was named after the tree.

I thought momentarily he might be Rumanian -- you know, Andreiu.
post #84 of 2438
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post
Andre Yew is Asian? I thought he was named after the tree.

My parents, those jokers.

--Andre
post #85 of 2438
An interesting experiment: four pics of the same coat, on the same day.

Leaving the house:


Early evening. Not sure what is causing the wierd buckling in the right shoulder:





Here it is without:



Note that it looks significantly different in every pic. Every pic shows some "flaw" or other, yet I can say that having worn it now many times, and taken it on a long trip, the fit and balance are spot on (with the exception of the sleeve length).

A cautionary tale about trying to glean too many conclusions from Internet pics.
post #86 of 2438
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post
An interesting experiment: four pics of the same coat, on the same day.

Leaving the house:


Early evening. Not sure what is causing the wierd buckling in the right shoulder:





Here it is without:



Note that it looks significantly different in every pic. Every pic shows some "flaw" or other, yet I can say that having worn it now many times, and taken it on a long trip, the fit and balance are spot on (with the exception of the sleeve length).

A cautionary tale about trying to glean too many conclusions from Internet pics.

The canvas "works" over the course of the day. They probably all do.
post #87 of 2438
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post
An interesting experiment: four pics of the same coat,

A cautionary tale about trying to glean too many conclusions from Internet pics.

Hmmm... Right. I do see that lighting make a big difference.

but the silhoutte appears quite consistent to my eyes ... , well except the second pic
post #88 of 2438
That must be the longest buttondown collar that I've ever seen.
post #89 of 2438
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley View Post
Lovely cloth MC!

yachtie - I'm not familiar with Harrison's Moonbeam - any pics?

I've made several from this bunch and it makes up really well. Sent this to a customer in Vancouver but I didn't want to let it go. It feels like cashmere. (I'm modeling)




Edwin DeBoise

www.steed.co.uk
post #90 of 2438
Nice - Moonbeam is fantastic stuff imo. I just had a sportcoat made in dark navy with rust checks (the last swatch in the book).
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