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The Anderson & Sheppard Expatriates Thread - Page 5

post #61 of 2416
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mildly Consumptive View Post
Yes. The first one I posted really speaks to me and I hope to have it hanging in my closet by Fall. This is the one I've already had made. I find I'm comfortable in it up to about 20 degrees Celsius (68 Fahrenheit).


Lovely cloth MC!

yachtie - I'm not familiar with Harrison's Moonbeam - any pics?
post #62 of 2416
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mildly Consumptive View Post
I have the jacket in front of me and it's hard to tell. The main part of the check is brown, and as far as I can tell, the thin outline is dark blue, or possibly black. Overall, it's pretty mottled.

Regardless of the specific colour, I like the organic feel of it....
post #63 of 2416
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley View Post
Lovely cloth MC!

yachtie - I'm not familiar with Harrison's Moonbeam - any pics?

Sorry, Saw it at Chris's Saturday. Didn't bring a camera. IIRC, they're all 10/11 oz 80% lambswool/20% angora : soft handed and a little fuzzy but good gutsy cloths. (jacketing- too soft for trousers)

Vox-Unless it's Harris, it needn't be handwoven to be a tweed.
post #64 of 2416
Quote:
Originally Posted by yachtie View Post
Sorry, Saw it at Chris's Saturday. Didn't bring a camera. IIRC, they're all 10/11 oz 80% lambswool/20% angora : soft handed and a little fuzzy but good gutsy cloths. (jacketing- too soft for trousers)

Vox-Unless it's Harris, it needn't be handwoven to be a tweed.

So, what did you order?
post #65 of 2416
Quote:
Originally Posted by yachtie View Post
Sorry, Saw it at Chris's Saturday. Didn't bring a camera. IIRC, they're all 10/11 oz 80% lambswool/20% angora : soft handed and a little fuzzy but good gutsy cloths. (jacketing- too soft for trousers)

Vox-Unless it's Harris, it needn't be handwoven to be a tweed.

If you get a chance, do post pics!!!
post #66 of 2416
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley View Post
So, what did you order?

Wool/silk/linen SBSC for later in the summer.Also finishing up a suit in H&S Dragonfly.
I'll get the Harrison's for the fall-I'd roast in it now.
post #67 of 2416
Quote:
Originally Posted by yachtie View Post
Wool/silk/linen SBSC for later in the summer.Also finishing up a suit in H&S Dragonfly.
I'll get the Harrison's for the fall-I'd roast in it now.

Very nice!
post #68 of 2416
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by yachtie View Post
Vox-Unless it's Harris, it needn't be handwoven to be a tweed.

Rationally and generally, yes.

For you, when does it stop becoming tweed and starting becoming faux tweed, then?

- B
post #69 of 2416
Quote:
Originally Posted by voxsartoria View Post
I am going to take the position that if it is not handspun, or at least handwoven, it's not a tweed but something made up to look like tweed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by yachtie View Post
Vox-Unless it's Harris, it needn't be handwoven to be a tweed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by voxsartoria View Post
Rationally and generally, yes.

For you, when does it stop becoming tweed and starting becoming faux tweed, then?

Tweed is cloth made of rough woolen yarns frmo Cheviot sheep. I think there is no other simple definition.
post #70 of 2416
The LL tweeds, including the Alden gunclub, are tweeds and not worsteds made to look like tweeds. I suspect the confusion stems from the association of tweed with the hairy, woolly, loosely woven variants from Harris or Shetland. The other style of tweed, known as "border" or "sporting" is equally tweed, a woolen spun Cheviot with a high twist finish that gives it a less hairy look. Examples of these "estate" tweeds can be seen in many border weavers' works and in the once available tweeds from Hunters of Brora.

Worsteds made to look like tweeds do exist. One of the well known examples is the excellent Glorious Twelfth book from Harrisons. This is a merino wool worsted spun cloth ie one in which the short staple length fibers have been combed out to give a flat and lustrous sheen.

Sporting tweeds are normally machine woven and this picture from the londonlounge site attests to the fact.

http://thelondonlounge.net/gl/forum/...hlight=gunclub

Such machines are required to produce the twist sought for by gentlemen that require a solid, long wearing product. Harris tweed cloth is also made on machines but machines operated manually and are they are consequently more loosely woven. These tweeds make up in charm what they lack in staying power.

An experienced bespoke customer is normally alert to the use of the word "handmade" and realizes that this appellation can have value if applied to such acts as stitching, sewing, pressing, or carving, engraving, sculpting etc. Using one's hands to run a sewing machine or a manual loom is another thing entirely.

There are some good Shetland products on the market and the ones from Scabal pictured in this thread deserve particular merit. I too have had my eyes on the gunclub but for the time being I am expecting delivery on a brown herringbone from this book. At the clothclub, we have issued our first Shetland cloth and I had a chance to fit it this week.

http://thelondonlounge.net/gl/forum/...pic.php?t=7902

I think our members will be very pleased.

M Alden
post #71 of 2416
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post
Tweed is cloth made of rough woolen yarns frmo Cheviot sheep. I think there is no other simple definition.

Quote:
Originally Posted by M. Alden View Post
The LL tweeds, including the Alden gunclub, are tweeds and not worsteds made to look like tweeds.

Worsteds made to look like tweeds do exist. One of the well known examples is the excellent Glorious Twelfth book from Harrisons. This is a merino wool worsted spun cloth ie one in which the short staple length fibers have been combed out to give a flat and lustrous sheen.


M&M: thank you.

- B
post #72 of 2416
Quote:
Originally Posted by voxsartoria View Post
Rationally and generally, yes.

For you, when does it stop becoming tweed and starting becoming faux tweed, then?

- B

Probably when the yarn size drops to the point where it really starts to feel like worsted suiting. The hand/feel of those is different.
post #73 of 2416
Thread Starter 
Pricing

It's not gentlemanly to discuss pricing, is it?

So let's do it.

The three expats price their two piece suits currently as follows:

DeBoise: £1800

Mahon: £2000

Hitchcock: £1895


- B
post #74 of 2416
Quote:
Originally Posted by voxsartoria View Post
Pricing

It's not gentlemanly to discuss pricing, is it?

So let's do it.

The three expats price their two piece suits currently as follows:

DeBoise: £1800

Mahon: £2000

Hitchcock: £1895


- B

Hi Vox-

That's before VAT, correct?
post #75 of 2416
Quote:
Originally Posted by voxsartoria View Post
A&S, and their expats, pride themselves on going straight to a forward fitting. This might be self serving, but it does place a premium on brilliance.

Are they brilliant? Or are they taking shortcuts? Hard to say...one can only judge from the results.

But here is one thing in their favor: in the case of all three A&S expats, the guy who talks with you, the guy who measures you, will also be the guy who cuts your cloth and then fits you later on. This is a pretty efficient committee, and can...if the conditions are right...result in straighforward and clear collaboration between maker and client to achieve the objectives on which both agree. That is, in the ideal case.

Photographs of my most recent set of fittings. One is completely at forward, the other is partially at baste and forward.





I, in fact, just received the finished garments today.

- B
Looking forward to seeing the finished garments!
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