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The Anderson & Sheppard Expatriates Thread - Page 168

post #2506 of 2523
Not sure if this is the right thread since it's technically the expats thread, but has anyone tried A&S trousers? Thinking of getting a pair, but would appreciate thoughts on how they compare to other bespoke makers.
post #2507 of 2523
Bespoke? I find them to fit very well. They're one of my favorite suppliers-- the only real drawback being price. They are just as good with belt loops as brace-tops, which can't be assumed in the UK.

One cool and unique thing they do is the pockets. If you can't decide between the invisibility of on-seam or the ease of slanted, they'll do both for you. Slanted seams following the contour of the pocket.

Waistband is a hair more flexible than some other SR shops, but not conspicuously "soft" or "draped." It's definitely from London and not HK.
post #2508 of 2523
Quote:
Originally Posted by Concordia View Post

Bespoke? I find them to fit very well. They're one of my favorite suppliers-- the only real drawback being price. They are just as good with belt loops as brace-tops, which can't be assumed in the UK.

One cool and unique thing they do is the pockets. If you can't decide between the invisibility of on-seam or the ease of slanted, they'll do both for you. Slanted seams following the contour of the pocket.

Waistband is a hair more flexible than some other SR shops, but not conspicuously "soft" or "draped." It's definitely from London and not HK.

Thanks Concordia. That slanted on-seam pocket feature sounds nice. Does it look strange to have the side seam slanted at the top though? (Assuming I'm understanding you correctly)

Anything notable about the cut? And have you tried NSM, Steed, or Ambrosi trousers by chance? (If so, any thoughts on how the cut compares?).

Also, did John Malone cut your trousers?
post #2509 of 2523
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

Thanks Concordia. That slanted on-seam pocket feature sounds nice. Does it look strange to have the side seam slanted at the top though? (Assuming I'm understanding you correctly)

Anything notable about the cut? And have you tried NSM, Steed, or Ambrosi trousers by chance? (If so, any thoughts on how the cut compares?).

Also, did John Malone cut your trousers?

I have tried each of the other three iGent favorites. I found that Steed tends to give me very spacious clothes-- perhaps because I am less slender than Ed. Ambrosi started by making the first pair too tight at first, but when I brought him a pair of London trousers to a fitting, he got things mostly very good. Slightly shorter rise than usual, and a rather narrow cuff, but generally OK. NsM has less of a "house style" and is willing to take more direction. From them I get more of a taper than from London, but less than Ambrosi. Rise isn't very low, maybe a bit higher than Ambrisi, but is definitely lower than SR standard. We may still be discussing that whole issue.

A&S cut is pretty unremarkable-- in the best possible sense. A little ease, a hint of taper, much comfort with pleats, etc. Less flashy in workmanship details than Denman & Goddard or some other SR houses, but very good. The only thing I've been less than thrilled with is that either because of cut or construction, I've had to abandon the outside key fob pocket under the waistband. It drooped a little, ruining the symmetry. I don't have that problem with D&G or Hitchcock (Jr), and the Italians make the problem irrelevant by putting one on each side of the fly.

Not sure who drew my pattern at first. John Hitchcock was my guy until retirement. I think Malone may now be the man in charge of my nether regions, and could well have been supervising the work before, but I don't know.
post #2510 of 2523
Quote:
Originally Posted by Concordia View Post

I have tried each of the other three iGent favorites. I found that Steed tends to give me very spacious clothes-- perhaps because I am less slender than Ed. Ambrosi started by making the first pair too tight at first, but when I brought him a pair of London trousers to a fitting, he got things mostly very good. Slightly shorter rise than usual, and a rather narrow cuff, but generally OK. NsM has less of a "house style" and is willing to take more direction. From them I get more of a taper than from London, but less than Ambrosi. Rise isn't very low, maybe a bit higher than Ambrisi, but is definitely lower than SR standard. We may still be discussing that whole issue.

That's been my experience with those makers as well, although Ambrosi gave me a higher rise than NSM.

Do you find the A&S trousers give you anything in terms of style or construction that you can't get from other makers? As you noted, the price is a big high, so I'm wondering if the upcharge is worth it.

FWIW, I like Steed's construction, and theirs hang the best on me, but the cut is a little full. Ambrosi has a nice leg line, but I agree the default is a bit slim. NSM is right in the middle, but they don't hang as well on me as the other makers.

Have you tried any of the other SR houses?
post #2511 of 2523
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

That's been my experience with those makers as well, although Ambrosi gave me a higher rise than NSM.

Do you find the A&S trousers give you anything in terms of style or construction that you can't get from other makers? As you noted, the price is a big high, so I'm wondering if the upcharge is worth it.

FWIW, I like Steed's construction, and theirs hang the best on me, but the cut is a little full. Ambrosi has a nice leg line, but I agree the default is a bit slim. NSM is right in the middle, but they don't hang as well on me as the other makers.

Have you tried any of the other SR houses?

The main virtue of A&S is that they get things very nearly exactly right with no fuss. No tricks or gimmicks that are easily identifiable.

Other favored sources are (at 11 St George, Hanover Sq) Denman & Goddard, Steven Hitchcock, and Whitcomb/Shaftesbury-- the last of which offers the deeply-discounted option of Indian handwork to go with McCabe's cutting in London. As much as I like Ed and his work on other people, I've pretty much drifted away from Steed. And I have no idea of how to get in touch with Ambrosi.
D&G for a while was my most serious source for trousers. I had a new pattern sketched recently (there was a flood), and we're not quite at equilibrium yet. But I really do like my older pairs. Hitchcock gets most of his press for his jackets, but the trousers are really very well cut, even the belt loop ones. And while W&S (and Kilgour before that) look a little funny when first put on-- too square, with somewhat strange proportions on pleats-- after two minutes of walking around they are quite fantastic in fit and appearance. Especially once you have your sweater or jacket on. Maybe McCabe makes the cuffs a bit too wide, assuming that you'll wear proper English shoes and not loafers. But for that errand, one can always employ the Italians.

The best and worst part of NsM is that you're not dealing with the genius cutter-- just a very accommodating front of the house. By contrast, Ambrosi wouldn't take photos or even notes-- he'd just sort of glare and grunt at the problem. Which would then be fixed quite perfectly, if idiosyncratically.

One interesting wild card is WW Chan. Construction on those is an obvious step below the others, with a weak waistband and cheap-looking belt loops. Also, prices are more or less at NsM or the Indian-made W&S levels. But the cut (adapted from A&S and slimmed slightly) is enormously comfortable to wear and look at.
post #2512 of 2523
Quote:
Originally Posted by Concordia View Post

The main virtue of A&S is that they get things very nearly exactly right with no fuss. No tricks or gimmicks that are easily identifiable.

Other favored sources are (at 11 St George, Hanover Sq) Denman & Goddard, Steven Hitchcock, and Whitcomb/Shaftesbury-- the last of which offers the deeply-discounted option of Indian handwork to go with McCabe's cutting in London. As much as I like Ed and his work on other people, I've pretty much drifted away from Steed. And I have no idea of how to get in touch with Ambrosi.

The best and worst part of NsM is that you're not dealing with the genius cutter-- just a very accommodating front of the house. By contrast, Ambrosi wouldn't take photos or even notes-- he'd just sort of glare at the problem and grunt. Which would then be fixed quite perfectly, if idiosyncratically.

Many thanks, Concordia. That was really helpful.
post #2513 of 2523
Took a (shitty) picture of the Steed Portofino jacket I've owned for a few months. I also wrote about it.

post #2514 of 2523
I love the cut of their jackets.
post #2515 of 2523
post #2516 of 2523

John Malone has cut all of my pants from Anderson & Sheppard. I've only bought suit pants and odd trousers to go with blazers—no stand-alone, knock-around pants. I've been very happy. Like the previous responses, nothing too radical or flashy, just classic, comfortable, well-tailored trousers. And when I've had minor quibbles with something, Mr. Malone has been completely willing and able to make the adjustments, with a bit of good cheer thrown in for good measure.

post #2517 of 2523
Quote:
Originally Posted by loarbmhs View Post

John Malone has cut all of my pants from Anderson & Sheppard. I've only bought suit pants and odd trousers to go with blazers—no stand-alone, knock-around pants. I've been very happy. Like the previous responses, nothing too radical or flashy, just classic, comfortable, well-tailored trousers. And when I've had minor quibbles with something, Mr. Malone has been completely willing and able to make the adjustments, with a bit of good cheer thrown in for good measure.

Thanks for the info, loarbmhs. Will see them later this month and ask more about the trousers.
post #2518 of 2523

While you're at it, you might want to check out their RTW trousers options at their haberdashery. Haven't been there myself, but they offer 11 different styles/cuts. You might find one to your liking and save on the time/expense of bespoke (assuming of course that you live anywhere near their London store).

post #2519 of 2523
Quote:
Originally Posted by loarbmhs View Post

While you're at it, you might want to check out their RTW trousers options at their haberdashery. Haven't been there myself, but they offer 11 different styles/cuts. You might find one to your liking and save on the time/expense of bespoke (assuming of course that you live anywhere near their London store).

Their RTW are excellent. I no longer buy bespoke odd trousers.
post #2520 of 2523
NEW YORK MEET?

I will be in New York 16th t0 19th November - if any of the locals would like to meet, PM me bigstar[1].gif
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