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The Anderson & Sheppard Expatriates Thread - Page 165

post #2461 of 2523
Quote:
Originally Posted by Concordia View Post

I have DB and SB suits from both.

While he is obviously of A&S background, what Edwin has done for me at Steed has a very different feel when worn, and a moderately (but noticeably) different appearance. Steed's trousers for me are more voluminous than what A&S does. Edwin also gives more space through the chest on all jackets, somewhat fatter lapels on SB, and altogether different front panels on DB, which are fairly flat and give oodles of space in the chest. Also for some reason, Ed places breast pockets (inside and out) lower than what I get from A&S. Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

A&S DB clings more to my chest even when unbuttoned. I don't know if that is an issue of cut, pressing, sizing, or small personal judgments as it's all being put together, but if the Steed DB feels a bit like a cape, some of the A&S jackets look like a sports bra before I put it on. Even though the basic measurements are not all that different.

Bear in mind that A&S has more than one cutter, so what I got started with John Hitchcock may not be exactly what you get when you walk in the door. Steed is based on Edwin (and maybe now his son). Hitchcock has much more of my build, while Edwin is rail-thin. So perhaps they brought different personal experiences of good tailoring to my body. Communication can also be more or less effective depending on who the client is, and that will affect how things evolve.

To complicate things further, Edwin's first set of my measurements were made when I weighed more than I do today (and when I started with A&S before that). So the image he had of what I needed may have come from different raw material. And there may simply be someone at A&S whose style points more to Steed than Hitchcock. All reasons to avoid drawing too many trend lines through one datapoint.

Thanks, Concordia. That echoes what I've heard from a friend who also has both -- although Edwin obviously comes from an A&S tradition, Steed and A&S offer different things.

I've been wanting to try A&S but wasn't sure if it made sense since I already use Steed. I'll see when they're in San Francisco next then.
post #2462 of 2523
Quote:
Originally Posted by Concordia View Post

I have DB and SB suits from both.

While he is obviously of A&S background, what Edwin has done for me at Steed has a very different feel when worn, and a moderately (but noticeably) different appearance. Steed's trousers for me are more voluminous than what A&S does. Edwin also gives more space through the chest on all jackets, somewhat fatter lapels on SB, and altogether different front panels on DB, which are fairly flat and give oodles of space in the chest. Also for some reason, Ed places breast pockets (inside and out) lower than what I get from A&S.

A & S sounds pretty appealing. Have you used them recently? Are the rumors of shoddy workmanship true?
post #2463 of 2523
My very first A&S DB (from 1997) has a few bits that are obviously not machine-made. The cosmetic quality of workmanship has improved a lot, though, even if you would still never confuse it with Brioni or Kiton. You'll have to take a look yourself to see if it pushes any of your buttons.
post #2464 of 2523
There is a lot I love in my A&S jacket, but there are fit issues that they just refused to address. Steed fits better on me.
post #2465 of 2523

I met last month with A&S on one of their semi-annual trips to NY, both to check the final fit on some new outfits, and to fine tune some older ones. In all cases, the adjustments were minor. Yes, they occasionally miss things, like all tailors do. But I've found them (Messrs. Hall, Heywood and Malone) to be unfailingly accommodating. Not only didn't they take issue with the adjustments I pointed out, but they proactively brought up ones that I missed. I sincerely believe that they want to make their clients happy, and that's what they're doing for me.

post #2466 of 2523
Thanks for the feedback everyone. They're apparently coming to San Francisco sometime in October. I'll make an appointment then.
post #2467 of 2523

Yes, once a year (the fall) they do come to SF; NY, twice a year. You can see the full itinerary for the two visits, with the other cities as well, on their website once they know their specific schedule.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

Thanks for the feedback everyone. They're apparently coming to San Francisco sometime in October. I'll make an appointment then.
post #2468 of 2523





Playing with the blues on a windy day in Copenhagen - Steven Hitchcock Mohair DB - Sean O*Flynn butcher stripe and Ferragano tie - Ivory linen trousers (not seen) - Musella Dembech bespoke in the background
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Photo www.the-journal-of-style.com
post #2469 of 2523
Steven Hitchcock are now including Boston in his traveling schedule!
bigstar[1].gif

The details of the Boston visit:

http://thesavilerowtailor.co.uk/contact-steven-hitchcock-london/boston/
post #2470 of 2523

What sunglasses are those Butler?

post #2471 of 2523
Quote:
Originally Posted by venividivicibj View Post

What sunglasses are those Butler?


"Retrosuperfuture"

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post #2472 of 2523
Met with Matthew and Edwin today. Getting a spring/summer SC made up in this (100% bamboo). Per Matthew it breathes extremely well and wears cool. Excited to see how it turns out.

post #2473 of 2523
Quote:
Originally Posted by bourbonbasted View Post

Met with Matthew and Edwin today. Getting a spring/summer SC made up in this (100% bamboo). Per Matthew it breathes extremely well and wears cool. Excited to see how it turns out.

That looks good. What book is that from?
post #2474 of 2523
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

That looks good. What book is that from?

Portofino IV. Matthew's most recent jacket is of the same cloth, but with a red overcheck.
post #2475 of 2523
Quote:
Originally Posted by bourbonbasted View Post


Portofino IV. Matthew's most recent jacket is of the same cloth, but with a red overcheck.


I'll be interested to see what you think of it when it's made up. The idea of bamboo is certainly intriguing.

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