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The Anderson & Sheppard Expatriates Thread

Despos

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Originally Posted by daruma
great thread...question about this post though



by center back seam, do you mean the back yoke? sorry if it's a stupid question...just trying to learn


That area is called the yoke but don't confuse it with a shirt yoke. Two different measures. Yoke on a shirt is from shoulder point to shoulder point, gives you the width a across the top of the shoulder.

Yoke on a jacket back measures the small curve at the top of the back. From the vertical center back seam, it follows the line of the undercollar to the shoulder seam. This measure is for the neck width or neck opening only. Has nothing to do with shoulder width.

Edwin's buttonholes are excellent. Very talented buttonhole maker. I like.
 

daruma

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Originally Posted by Despos
Yoke on a jacket back measures the small curve at the top of the back. From the vertical center back seam, it follows the line of the undercollar to the shoulder seam. This measure is for the neck width or neck opening only. Has nothing to do with shoulder width.

thank you for the explanation sir, although i'm still having a hard time picturing it. can someone please provide visual aid?
 

fritzl

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Originally Posted by voxsartoria
One of Edwin's apprentices, Andrea (who who came in third in the 2009 Golden Shears and also one that year's Rising Newcomer) sews Steed buttonholes as well.

what a waste.
laugh.gif
 

Despos

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Originally Posted by daruma
thank you for the explanation sir, although i'm still having a hard time picturing it. can someone please provide visual aid?

With a jacket on a hanger, flip the collar up at the back. The fuzzy fabric you see is collar Melton and is referred to as the under collar. The bottom edge of the Melton/under collar from the center seam curves upward to meet the shoulder seam. That line is the neck yoke on a jacket.

Some make this very small, some big, different methods for different tailors.
 

Despos

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Originally Posted by Concordia
Change the labels to "Despos" and increase the numbers on the price tags. What are the other things?
I'll answer this. Mind you, these are "changes" not "corrections". Mostly changes of styling that agree with my more "Italian Aesthetic". If you prefer an English aesthetic my points are moot. Would give a curve to the breast pocket, barchetta style, make the pocket wider, 3cm rather than 2cm. This pocket line is too straight/flat. Widen the lapel 1/2". This chalk stripe is so classic and I would style it more to the 30's and 40's. This suit should double as a wardrobe piece from any Thin Man Movie. Would finish the stripe at the collar tips to be parallel to the end. Just the way I was trained. Maybe, just maybe would open a space between the collar and the lapel points. Gives a vintage touch. No flaps on the DB chalk stripe, besom pockets. This suit needs pleated trousers, more elegant. Number one change; would reverse the colors of these two suits. Dog tooth in brown and the chalk stripe in a mid grey. Would make both suits more wearable and easier to accessorize. Brown dog tooth with a pink, ecru or light blue shirting and a suede lace up or monk. Country suit for the city. I made this up for myself in 1987 but made it DB. This pattern in grey/black is too cool and kinda chalky compared to the brown version, IMO. Mid grey chalk is just my favorite color combo for this look at present. Can be worn anywhere, anytime. Easy to accessorize. My prices run about 25% higher than Edwin. Will look into rents in Cumbria or wherever he works from.
Originally Posted by voxsartoria
[click pic for supersize if you wish...might take a few minutes for images to show through] Both are Steed (Edwin DeBoise) bespoke numbers in Minnis flannels. The dogtooth is an SB three piece: jacket is 3 roll 2.5 with front cuts and flap out pockets, including ticket; vest is SB with notch lapel; trousers are single pleat with English back. The chalk is an DB two piece: jacket is 6x2 with front cuts and flap out pockets, no ticket; trousers are flat front with straight back and side adjusters. - B
 

Metlin

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tutee

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Originally Posted by voxsartoria
I might post more pics when the weather is a bit kinder to the flannels.

- B


Vox Man Up!

Wear the freakin suits and post pictures
smile.gif
 

A Y

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Originally Posted by voxsartoria
"Despos: for the despot in everyone."

When he makes house calls, is it Home Despos?

Chris brings this up and I was surprised, too: why flat fronts and straight back for the DB pants?

--Andre
 

Despos

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Originally Posted by A Y
When he makes house calls, is it Home Despos? Chris brings this up and I was surprised, too: why flat fronts and straight back for the DB pants? --Andre
Didn't get this at first look. Good one A Y Let me guess. Straight back trouser because there is no vest. Other choices are to tone down a DB chalk stripe suit, therefore, color is brown, pocket flaps, plain front trouser, less is more, yada, yada. Just my look into the mind of Voxx.
 

voxsartoria

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Originally Posted by tutee
Vox Man Up!

Wear the freakin suits and post pictures
smile.gif


laugh.gif


In due course...still waiting on Alitalia?

Originally Posted by Despos
Didn't get this at first look. Good one A Y

Let me guess. Straight back trouser because there is no vest.

Other choices are to tone down a DB chalk stripe suit, therefore, color is brown, pocket flaps, plain front trouser, less is more, yada, yada. Just my look into the mind of Voxx.


Yes: I do single pleats and a fishtails back on vested Steed suits; flat front, straight back, and side adjusters otherwise.

I love the idea of a mid-gray chalkstripe DB...will add it to the list.


- B
 

forex

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Originally Posted by voxsartoria
laugh.gif


In due course...still waiting on Alitalia?



Yes: I do single pleats and a fishtails back on vested Steed suits; flat front, straight back, and side adjusters otherwise.

I love the idea of a mid-gray chalkstripe DB...will add it to the list.


- B


I am surprised that Mid grey chalkstripe didn't come before brown.
You get flat front pants on Steed suits?
 

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