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The Anderson & Sheppard Expatriates Thread - Page 150

post #2236 of 2409
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slewfoot View Post

Putting the "sport" back in sportcoat. LL Houndstooth in dark brown and medium brown. Lovely fabric that is so soft and stretchy and full of character. Awesome stuff. Made up Edwin and Matthew DeBoise of Steed.

AppleMark


Nice looking coat, it might be just a picture but one of the lapels seems significantly wider than the other one?
post #2237 of 2409
Received a new 2 button blazer last Friday in a gorgeous navy flannel (Hardy Minnis 0305). Fits beautifully, the cloth has that lovely deep, soft hand of really good quality flannel.

Had its maiden outing today. Absolutely delighted.

A couple of frescos for next summer should be in the works shortly.
post #2238 of 2409
Quote:
Originally Posted by forex View Post

Nice looking coat, it might be just a picture but one of the lapels seems significantly wider than the other one?

Thanks! After it came out of the box the rolls were a bit off in terms of where they fall. I imagine that's partly it, but correct that one does seem wider right now.
post #2239 of 2409
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slewfoot View Post

^ Tough to say. I'd just look through the thread and see what grabs your attention. If you're looking for a suit I'd go double breasted. They truly feel one step away from pajamas.
steed's DBs look best.
post #2240 of 2409
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slewfoot View Post

AppleMark

As Slewfoot alluded to, this is a paddock jacket, so both buttons should be buttoned. What strikes me about it is how skillfully the tailor has made all the angled lines harmonize with one another. Very nice. I'm not equally enthusiastic about the profile view -- I would prefer a more sculpted chest and more waist suppression -- but maybe that's how these kinds of jackets are supposed to look.
post #2241 of 2409
Nice to see a flapped breast pocket, but that one seems rather low, doesn't it? Was that deliberate?

Lovely cloth, Slew. Wear in good health.
post #2242 of 2409
Quote:
Originally Posted by DocHolliday View Post

Nice to see a flapped breast pocket, but that one seems rather low, doesn't it? Was that deliberate?

Lovely cloth, Slew. Wear in good health.
Steed likes to put breast pockets on-- one's breast.
post #2243 of 2409
Quote:
Originally Posted by JubeiSpiegel View Post

^
Bespoke armholes are a beautiful thing...

Steed's armholes aren't particularly high, well at least they weren't on mine when I specifically requested the highest ones possible. That being said, there is nonetheless a lot of arm mobility, the most of all of my bespoke suits.
post #2244 of 2409
Doc! Great to see you around these parts. I'm fine with it as is adding to the slouchy / sporty vibe although I'd be fine with it a half inch higher too. Just glad it turned out well as a whole!
post #2245 of 2409
Thanks, Slew. I always enjoy seeing your stuff. Steed does good work for you.

I've been eyeballing flapped breast pockets lately, so I was quite interested in your specimen. I wonder if the uppermost corner of your pocket is in the same spot it would be on a typical straight pocket, so that the flap is angled downward from there.

Did you discuss which way the pocket should slope? Your direction seems to have been most common back in the day. Terry-Thomas often sported flaps like yours, for example. But Patrick Macnee's followed the slope of the shoulder line.
post #2246 of 2409
Thanks! Yes, I think that's pretty much it in that the corner of the pocket is in the standard spot. We put on a mock pocket at the fitting which seemed to be best right around that position. Balanced things out nicely.

I trust you're looking smashing as always these days!
post #2247 of 2409

Anyone else think that the A&S lapel buttonholes are slightly longer than other makers?

post #2248 of 2409
Tom Mahon wrote a long time ago that the longer the boutonnière buttonhole, the better. He makes his 1-1/8 inches long.
post #2249 of 2409
I have noticed that the Italians generally make theirs smaller than the English.
post #2250 of 2409
Just an FYI that Steed will be coming to NY on 10/28 and 10/29.

I'll be getting fittings for an LL green tweed sportcoat and a Fox Flannel DB navy chalk stripe. Can't wait.
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