Originally Posted by Slewfoot
Originally Posted by Despos
21ounce cloth is difficult to work with. Have written this before, elsewhere. The cloth loses suppleness and this has to be adjusted for to compensate.
If Slew would submit another picture with the jacket unbuttoned you would see what the issue is.
Hard to assess from this one picture because I'm not sure Slew is in a natural relaxed posture here.
Will try, but photos are tough to come by these days with a crazy toddler running around! I was fairly relaxed - as relaxed as one can be for a robot pose. As I mentioned, I'm not worried about anything though.
No biggie. What you would see is how the fronts would fall on their own and how much gap is created between the front edges. As is, the right front is 1cm shorter than the left front. They sewed the button to align the pattern in the cloth but it doesn't sync up with the length of the strap. You either want to drop one front or pick one up from the shoulder. You could just find the natural position for the button and move it and disregard the pattern. The jacket could just not be sitting on your shoulders as they should.
I can't discern if the jacket is meant to roll to the top button or if is intended to be a 3 roll 2.
Looks like this cloth made up on the big side or to put it another way it "grew" during the making. Again, it could be intentional. One never knows in these matters.
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH
Interesting perspective. I have heard from people tailors and non tailors that heavier cloth is best to work with, but I guess after a certain weight it carries new issues, which differ from those working with lighter cloth. In your experience is there an "optimal" weight, or does it depend on the type/weave/finish of the fabric?
Once you get over 20 ounces you are approaching interior design/upholstery weights of cloth. Imagine trying to shape carpet. You have to adjust to the characteristics of the cloth which change with weight and cloth structure.
To reach the trifecta you want the right combination of yarn, weave and weight, not that finishing isn't important.
Mr. Booth, to put it in language you could relate to, bean, grind, temperature. Finishing = skill of the Barista
One of the most perfect cloths for me was the Holland & Sherry Vendon Hopsack at 11/12 ounces but there are good cloths at different weights and other weaves. It is also somewhat subjective. Other tailors may not like what I like.