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The Anderson & Sheppard Expatriates Thread - Page 127

post #1891 of 2161
3/30/12 at 6:24am
Quote:
Originally Posted by S. Able View Post

As do mine. I have heard them referred to as "cuts." I once tried to have excess chest fabric removed through these cuts. It didn't work out too well.

Because cuts are used to create excess cloth at the chest.
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post #1892 of 2161
4/3/12 at 1:57pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by F. Corbera View Post

All my Steeds have the underarm dart terminating before reaching the armscye.
Same for all my coats by A&S.
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post #1893 of 2161
4/3/12 at 1:59pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by RSS View Post

Same for all my coats by A&S.

I guess they weren't made recently then.
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post #1894 of 2161
4/3/12 at 2:05pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

I guess they weren't made recently then.
Last one is 2009.
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post #1895 of 2161
4/3/12 at 2:08pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

I guess they weren't made recently then.

I believe RSS had some recent stuff made by A&S after a hiatus.

I wouldn't be surprised, though, if these are based on his existing patterns there. This would have been drawn up by the previous regime even if updated and cut by the current.

Up through the eighties, there were several senior cutters. Each had his variations on the A&S style. One cutter, for example, was thought to be more successful with big dudes. Another did stuff that was more shapely. Each might have used sidebodies or not as well, fish cuts or cuts to the arm, or front darts or not.

It's not only the overall cut, derived from the London drape cut, that distinguishes A&S from most of the other SR makers...there's also a lot that comes from their approach to sewing and actual make-up of the clothes themselves (e.g., the canvas.)

If you remove one brick, I don't think the walls fall. Several bricks, though, might be another matter.
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post #1896 of 2161
4/3/12 at 2:10pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by RSS View Post

Last one is 2009.

You made it to the 21st century.
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post #1897 of 2161
4/3/12 at 2:11pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by F. Corbera View Post

I believe RSS had some recent stuff made by A&S after a hiatus.
I wouldn't be surprised, though, if these are based on his existing patterns there. This would have been drawn up by the previous regime even if updated and cut by the current.
Up through the eighties, there were several senior cutters. Each had his variations on the A&S style. One cutter, for example, was thought to be more successful with big dudes. Another did stuff that was more shapely. Each might have used sidebodies or not as well, fish cuts or cuts to the arm, or front darts or not.
It's not only the overall cut, derived from the London drape cut, that distinguishes A&S from most of the other SR makers...there's also a lot that comes from their approach to sewing and actual make-up of the clothes themselves (e.g., the canvas.)
If you remove one brick, I don't think the walls fall. Several bricks, though, might be another matter.

I wonder what you would end up with if you asked A&S for a suit that looked like they used to cut in the mid-1940's. I wonder what you would end up with. Could they do it?
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post #1898 of 2161
4/3/12 at 2:15pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

I wonder what you would end up with if you asked A&S for a suit that looked like they used to cut in the mid-1940's. I wonder what you would end up with. Could they do it?

Did you see those photos A&S and Poole fitting and workroom photos from the mid 40s that I put up elsewhere?

I don't know if they could or even if they should. Why do you ask?
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post #1899 of 2161
4/3/12 at 2:16pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by F. Corbera View Post

You made it to the 21st century.
Yes, but with an old pattern.
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post #1900 of 2161
4/3/12 at 2:23pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by F. Corbera View Post

Did you see those photos A&S and Poole fitting and workroom photos from the mid 40s that I put up elsewhere?
I don't know if they could or even if they should. Why do you ask?

I did see those. They are great. I am just curious how not how style has evolved, but A&S's reaction to it. I just wonder if some of those roots are forever gone, and what is in the future for them in terms of the silhouette. The apprentices, are they learning the history before learning what is done today?

Picasso could do this:
17.jpg

But he chose to do this:
picasso_portrait_femme_lf.JPG
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post #1901 of 2161
4/3/12 at 2:30pm
I do think that there was a significant narrowing of continuity at A&S when the first wave of expats left.

All this is rehashed elsewhere. I'm not sure that it's worth re-rehashing.

It's moot anyway. A&S today is A&S today. You either like it or not.

For the time being, there are alternatives (as documented in this thread.) If you are wanting something from the old cutting crew, there are only three guys left, one of whom Manton keeps secret. None of the three are at A&S.

So, there you have it.

There's little point in being religious about it.
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post #1902 of 2161
4/3/12 at 2:31pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by F. Corbera View Post

I believe RSS had some recent stuff made by A&S after a hiatus.
I wouldn't be surprised, though, if these are based on his existing patterns there. This would have been drawn up by the previous regime even if updated and cut by the current.
Up through the eighties, there were several senior cutters. Each had his variations on the A&S style. One cutter, for example, was thought to be more successful with big dudes. Another did stuff that was more shapely.
I left there in the early 90s but went back in 2006 for a brief spell. And yes, the pattern used was the one drawn by Colin Harvey in the late 70s. However, I had it adapted from a two-button closure to a one-button ... not exactly a big change. That said, upon my 'return' I found A&S much more willing to 'experiment.' Ultimately I decided that it was no longer for me.
Edited by RSS - 4/3/12 at 3:00pm
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post #1903 of 2161
4/3/12 at 2:47pm
.
Edited by F. Corbera - 4/3/12 at 5:18pm
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post #1904 of 2161
4/3/12 at 4:22pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by F. Corbera View Post

Edwin was Colin's undercutter for a few weeks when Edwin came over from Nutters. Your old cutter had a keen eye, and gave Edwin an elaborate test. After the test, Edwin was promoted to being a cutter himself.
The last piece made for me in the 90s was a dinner coat with matching trousers and a waistcoat. It was begun after Mr. Harvey's departure. The reference in the pocket begins with a letter 'E.' Edwin, perhaps? I've always been very fond of that particular piece (all three pieces of it).

I've just looked at a photo of Edwin and he looks familiar. I'm sure I met him at A&S once or twice.
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post #1905 of 2161
4/3/12 at 6:01pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by F. Corbera View Post

I do think that there was a significant narrowing of continuity at A&S when the first wave of expats left.
All this is rehashed elsewhere. I'm not sure that it's worth re-rehashing.
It's moot anyway. A&S today is A&S today. You either like it or not.
For the time being, there are alternatives (as documented in this thread.) If you are wanting something from the old cutting crew, there are only three guys left, one of whom Manton keeps secret. None of the three are at A&S.
So, there you have it.
There's little point in being religious about it.

+100 - what Vox said.

It always amazes me when people criticize A&S for not 'being what they were', as if they were around to experience their romanticized notion of the grand ol' days of Andersons.

Fwiw, I am a current customer of A&S - I'm not sure how true they are to their heritage, but they have made some of my very best suits - markedly better than those made for me by Huntsman and Kilgour. And they continue to be very soft with a subtle amount of drape - the 2 hallmarks of the Anderson cut.
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