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The Anderson & Sheppard Expatriates Thread - Page 114

post #1696 of 2438
Quote:
Originally Posted by RSS View Post

I have used a surveyor by that name. Not quite as bad as my middle school coach, Don Duck.

I know his Eastern European wife, Tsick. Sometimes people mix up her first/last names, what a hoot!
post #1697 of 2438
Quote:
Originally Posted by RSS View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by lasbar View Post

I thought you were an Earl Grey man...
I have used a surveyor by that name. Not quite as bad as my middle school coach, Don Duck.

I know his Eastern European wife, Tsick. Sometimes people mix up her first/last names, what a hoot![/quote]

Grew up in Ft Wayne, IN. The mayor of the city was Mayor Baals and yes, his first name was Harry.

Follow the link

http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/41480994/ns/us_news-weird_news/t/scratch-harry-baals-list-names-government-center/#.TpzwnGDPqcc
post #1698 of 2438
post #1699 of 2438
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slewfoot View Post

Thanks guys! Regarding the pick stitching, the last photo makes it appear much more prominent than it normally is in real life. It's there, but subtle. Just the way I like it.

Great looking jacket icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gificon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif
post #1700 of 2438
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post

I know his Eastern European wife, Tsick. Sometimes people mix up her first/last names, what a hoot!
Grew up in Ft Wayne, IN. The mayor of the city was Mayor Baals and yes, his first name was Harry.
Follow the link
http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/41480994/ns/us_news-weird_news/t/scratch-harry-baals-list-names-government-center/#.TpzwnGDPqcc[/quote]

I had to do my college marketing paper interviewing a Harry Bush. I mean WHY didn't he just go by Harold????
post #1701 of 2438
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A semi-formal autum afternoon:

Black jacket, DB waistcoat & cashmere braced trousers by Steven Hitchcock
Tunbull & Asser shirt with Budd detached collar
Gieves & Hawkes tie
Oxford boots
Edited by Butler - 10/21/11 at 10:42am
post #1702 of 2438
A recently received 3-roll-2 (I just specified "hacking jacket" and let him do his thing) in the 2nd LL gunclub from Tom Mahon:

P40106600.jpg

I also got a 3-piece, SBPL in the darker grey Brisa.
post #1703 of 2438
You are missing two stripes on the left lapel. Count up from the horizontal red plaid on the lapel. Maybe they are in the box, hope you haven't thrown it out yet. Jumps out on a bold plaid like this.
I like to put the same stripe along the outside edge of the collar as the outside edge of the lapel. Creates a nice balanced look although no one notices.
post #1704 of 2438
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post

You are missing two stripes on the left lapel. Count up from the horizontal red plaid on the lapel. Maybe they are in the box, hope you haven't thrown it out yet. Jumps out on a bold plaid like this.
I like to put the same stripe along the outside edge of the collar as the outside edge of the lapel. Creates a nice balanced look although no one notices.

Thanks --- I hope this will save me from being beaten up should I visit Wall Street. I wonder if that was due to an alteration for my figuration, post-first fitting.
post #1705 of 2438
If it was an adjustment for your physique it would be for a low left shoulder but that is not the case. When you cut the lapel facing you match the stripe to the top of the lapel so they both match. What happened here was carelessness or just a slip of the scissors. The sloping line of the gorge is greater on the left than the right and you can discern this from the width of the collar. The left collar looks longer and more tapered than the right. Look at the point where the gorge meets the breakline/roll of the lapel and then let you eye carry over horizontally to the outside edge of the collar. See that the collar on the right side is wider than the collar on the left? This is all due to the difference in the angle of the gorge line. Both lapels should be the same mirrored image of each other. The stripe on the lapel is the same on both sides at the top of the lapel against the breakline/roll of the lapel. The left angles downward more and you lose two stripes.
post #1706 of 2438
Thanks, I see that too. You can also see that the slope of the top of the lapel along the gorge is steeper on the left (the side with the lapel buttonhole) because the very top red stripe on the lapel crosses 3 of the ground stripes, while the opposite side crosses 2.

How do you feel about making the stripes on the lapel parallel to the slope of the gorge? I imagine that will only be possible in some cases.
post #1707 of 2438
you got it.

Have seen the horizontal stripe on the same line as the gorge on Mina's jackets, Napoli Su Misura. Lining up the stripe is the easy part, basting the undercollar to fit the gorge line isn't.
post #1708 of 2438
Quote:
Originally Posted by Butler View Post

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A semi-formal autum afternoon:
Black jacket, DB waistcoat & cashmere braced trousers by Steven Hitchcock
Tunbull & Asser shirt with Budd detached collar
Gieves & Hawkes tie
Oxford boots

To paraphrase George Bernard Shaw's famous quote about the US and Great Britain:
"Two nations divided by a common language"

So we see Mr Butler as exemplifying, two nations divided by a common clothing
heritage. My guess is that virtually no one on this side of the"pond" has any use for that
"outfit" except to get married ( or buried).

http://forum.wordreference.com/showthread.php?t=146783
post #1709 of 2438
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post

You are missing two stripes on the left lapel. Count up from the horizontal red plaid on the lapel. Maybe they are in the box, hope you haven't thrown it out yet. Jumps out on a bold plaid like this.

I just saw this blog post from A&S this morning, and there's a similar problem but on the opposite side:

http://www.anderson-sheppard.co.uk/thenotebook/green-tweed-coat-with-overcheck/

jacket-1.jpg

I also overlaid my coat's left lapel on the right, they both appear to be sized and cut the same way. Perhaps the paper pattern wasn't laid down precisely enough or the tailor moved the part a little bit when putting the coat together. Anyway, in case anyone is wondering, I'm not bothered at all by this --- it's just interesting to see where this will show up next.
post #1710 of 2438
Quote:
Originally Posted by Butler View Post

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The coat and vest are excellent, and you carry them well.

My only criticism is that the pants are too jarring and ruin the look. The pants are too light, and the stripe is too pronounced. I think that a darker trouser with a more subtle stripe would serve you and your ensemble better.

Good luck.
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