Another common thread (so to speak) is the small/short backneck measurement. That's the distance from the center backseam to the shoulder seam. A short backneck (on each side) results in extra fullness over the shoulder blades, allowing for greater freedom of movement, and also is THE major cause of keeping a collar glued to the neck. Frankly, I don't know why all tailors don't do this. The tell-tale sign, BTW, is the angled shoulder seam. It won't travel in a straight line from the neck to the sleeve, bisecting your body, but will angle down toward the back of the coat.
All my A&S-inspired suits stay glued to the neck far better than others, and also are easier to move in. I can pretty much move my arms in any direction and the collar will not lift.
Stylistically, they are known for widish, bellied lapels, and peaks that rake up dramatically. One or two darts, sidebodies rarely (if ever), and front darts to the bottom, never.
Shoulders will be un- or lightly padded. Wadding at the sleevehad is typical, which when paired with the open seam gives a very slight roping effect in the coat's early years. Shoulders are also typically extended a hair (1/4" to 1/2"). Given the softness of the construction, the shoulder tends to "break down" over time and eventually fall over the delt with wear.
I have found (through somewhat limited) experience that these guys have a tremendous track record at getting the balance right from the get-go. They may not make the most shapely coats, and certainly not the leanest, but the balance is perfect. An A&S customer friend of mine reports the same of John Hitchcock, and from what I have seen of his coats, he is right.
My major complaint about the cut is that these guys typically do the buttoning point too low (and sometimes the gorge as well). Getting them to raise it is essential for me.
As to the actual tailors discussed, I have one suit from S. Hitchcock. Despite what the obsessive stalkers at FNB.com will say, the suit's balance is perfect, and it fits very well after some necessary alterations (which Steven himself admitted were necessary, and performed himself). The shape is OK, but very loose compared to the others. I don't find it as soft as my others, and the sewing leaves a lot to be desired. That's one suit, so YMMV.
My Steed stuff is from when Thomas and Edwin were partners. It is very wasp-waisted, and the chest is more swelled than draped. It is well made, but far from the best stuff I have seen or own. Ultimately, the cut was just a bit too flamboyant for me.
This to me represents A&S/Scholte at its best:
NB: the skirt looks fuller than it is because my raised arm, holding the camera, is causing it to lift. It's much trimmer normally. Not as trim as what we have seen from Rubinacci, but not at all flared.
I just got a new SB jacket, but I don't have my camera.