The Anderson & Sheppard Expatriates Thread
[Corrections are welcome! In addition, photographs of Mr. Mahon's and Mr. Hitchcock's work are welcome.]
In 1995, two cutters, Mr. Edwin DeBoise and Mr. Thomas Mahon, from the Savile Row house of Anderson & Sheppard (A&S) left A&S and formed a new house called Steed:
http://www.steed.co.uk
In 2002, Mr. DeBoise bought out Mr. Mahon's partnership and assumed individual ownership of Steed. Mr. Mahon pursued some activities outside of tailoring, but continued to service some of his old clients directly:
http://www.thomasmahon.co.uk/
Mr. Mahon then resumed a more active return to tailoring by forming English Cut, and started an amusing and informative blog that introduced him to a wider clientele:
http://www.englishcut.com/
In 1999, Mr. Stephen Hitchcock, the son of the Managing Director of A&S, Mr. John Hitchcock, also left A&S to run his own house:
http://www.stevenhitchcock.co.uk/ and http://www.thesavilerowtailor.com/
These three are men whom I will refer to as the A&S expats. They share three major characteristics:
1. All three apprenticed and practiced at A&S.
2. All three continue to base their creations on what they call "soft tailoring." Note that none call it "draped tailoring." Each of the three offer a British alternative to the A&S style where once, after Frederick Scholte's death, there were none to speak of [again, corrections welcome].
3. All three access many of the same outworkers as A&S use, and in some cases, have exclusive access to tailors who once worked for A&S.
I am a client of Mr. DeBoise. When I first contacted Steed, Mr. DeBoise and Mr. Mahon were still partners. I was attracted to them because I liked the A&S style, but wanted more personal service and a willingness to adapt more to my requests, areas in which the traditional A&S autocratic style seemed less suited (although they appear more flexible these days). I have been a client of Mr. DeBoise since then.
When I compare my commissions from Mr. DeBoise to examples that I have seen from A&S, I observe the following:
1. Trimmings are superior. One example: horn buttons.
2. The style is more closely fitted. There is more waist suppression.
3. The trousers are trimmer.
4. The quality of sewing is as high as any garment that I have seen personally, or observed photographically.
More comments and photographs to follow.
- B
[Corrections are welcome! In addition, photographs of Mr. Mahon's and Mr. Hitchcock's work are welcome.]
In 1995, two cutters, Mr. Edwin DeBoise and Mr. Thomas Mahon, from the Savile Row house of Anderson & Sheppard (A&S) left A&S and formed a new house called Steed:
http://www.steed.co.uk
In 2002, Mr. DeBoise bought out Mr. Mahon's partnership and assumed individual ownership of Steed. Mr. Mahon pursued some activities outside of tailoring, but continued to service some of his old clients directly:
http://www.thomasmahon.co.uk/
Mr. Mahon then resumed a more active return to tailoring by forming English Cut, and started an amusing and informative blog that introduced him to a wider clientele:
http://www.englishcut.com/
In 1999, Mr. Stephen Hitchcock, the son of the Managing Director of A&S, Mr. John Hitchcock, also left A&S to run his own house:
http://www.stevenhitchcock.co.uk/ and http://www.thesavilerowtailor.com/
These three are men whom I will refer to as the A&S expats. They share three major characteristics:
1. All three apprenticed and practiced at A&S.
2. All three continue to base their creations on what they call "soft tailoring." Note that none call it "draped tailoring." Each of the three offer a British alternative to the A&S style where once, after Frederick Scholte's death, there were none to speak of [again, corrections welcome].
3. All three access many of the same outworkers as A&S use, and in some cases, have exclusive access to tailors who once worked for A&S.
I am a client of Mr. DeBoise. When I first contacted Steed, Mr. DeBoise and Mr. Mahon were still partners. I was attracted to them because I liked the A&S style, but wanted more personal service and a willingness to adapt more to my requests, areas in which the traditional A&S autocratic style seemed less suited (although they appear more flexible these days). I have been a client of Mr. DeBoise since then.
When I compare my commissions from Mr. DeBoise to examples that I have seen from A&S, I observe the following:
1. Trimmings are superior. One example: horn buttons.
2. The style is more closely fitted. There is more waist suppression.
3. The trousers are trimmer.
4. The quality of sewing is as high as any garment that I have seen personally, or observed photographically.
More comments and photographs to follow.
- B
