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Full-canvas suits:  looks or longevity?

post #1 of 4
Thread Starter 
I'm reasonably young 25 years old, and while I have a good job and have some money to spend on suits, I don't want to be blowing huge wads of cash when my style and body could change in a relatively short period of time (I'm getting back into weightlifting after a relatively stressful year of work where I didn't have much free time and lost a bit of weight in my upper body). Moreover, I'm not sure how long I'm going to work in a place/industry requiring suits on a daily basis. So, my question is this: Does a full-canvas suit (read: totally non-fused) add to the looks of a suit or its longevity. If its adds to both, how much to each category? I ask this because people on this board always say that you can tell a fused from a non-fused suit by feeling it -- nobody ever says you can tell from the look of it. It seems to me that if you get other good construction details -- nice seems, good 120s or higher wool, nice shape to the cut, nice snug collar, rolled lapels, good armholes, etc. -- the only added benefit to a full-canvas suit is its longevity. This being the case, if you only see you needing a closet full of suits for two years or so, isn't going with fused the best option for the money (for example, even if you want to bypass Sake/NM outlets, Filenes Basement, etc. you can get a Nautica super 130s suit for like 200 bucks.). Thoughts?
post #2 of 4
Unless you are a mannequin, you can tell by appearences as well. A no-glue suit/coat will always look, travel, drape better than a glued one. As far as the other details you describe, they will naturally be found on a better suit, not a fused one anyway. It is always better, IMO, to buy the best you can afford in small increments, rather than more of something that is cheaper.
post #3 of 4
Concur with Rider. BUT... given that you are a young whelp who is wet behind the ears and has yet to experience the mortgage and child-rearing induced gluteal spread of us old farts your point about changing in size is well made. Get a suit that fits you as you are - if you take off a few inches in the waist it is not a big deal to let trousers in/out. Given where you are in life right now my advice on suits would be to shop very carefully, buy quality and build up your wardrobe over time. Suits are the T-bills of your wardrobe portfolio. Shirts, ties, trousers, sportcoats - you can view those as short term investments that are expendable. Suits are special - ya don't need 100 suits, you need 5 great ones, 10 if you wear them daily. When I buy a suit or have one made I do NOTHING unusual and go with very classic lines - I have a couple suits that are almost your age that you would not be able to tell from the 3 month old one next to it in my closet - those were good buys and will look fine in another 10 years if properly cared for.
post #4 of 4
Quote:
Suits are the T-bills of your wardrobe portfolio.
Don't mean to be a smartass but the longest T-bills are 1- year in duration and the vast majority are 90-day. I'm sure you meant something that would last for years if not decades.
Quote:
I have a couple suits that are almost your age that you would not be able to tell from the 3 month old one next to it in my closet - those were good buys and will look fine in another 10 years if properly cared for.
I presume this comes largely from the choice of superior fabrics and the canvassed construction, but are there any other major factors? I also looked at Arnys website and they mentioned "Through the year it (Arny's bespoke) will acquire a certain patina rather than wear". Could someone explain how you would support this assertion? http://www.arnys.fr/uk/grandesMesures.htm
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