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The Rubinacci Thread. - Page 277

post #4141 of 4251
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

I'm sure this has probably been addressed somewhere in this thread, but have people found a big difference in getting fitted with Luca vs. Mariano? Assuming one can specify that they'd like their garment made in Naples, and they already have a clear vision of what they'd like, is there a significant difference in outcomes?

Well, that's sort of a loaded question, though I know you didn't intend it that way. Anyone who fits you is going to fit you a little differently than the next guy. It's not a science. And even the same guy might fit you differently today than he might have yesterday.

That said, so long as I'm getting something fairly standard (say, a typical suit or odd jacket with the usual details), I would not really care whether it's Mariano or Luca who fits me. Luca has grown up with this stuff and learned from his father very well. Very importantly, he understands when a client wants things the traditional, "old man" way or when he wants something more avant garde. Don't let his own eccentric manner of dress fool you into believing he cannot execute classically.
post #4142 of 4251
Fair enough. My question was more whether Luca can help execute a very conservative, classic look. Good to hear he is; maybe I'll try to see him in LA sometime at the end of this year.
post #4143 of 4251
Quote:
Originally Posted by coolpapa View Post

You've mentioned several times that this is one justification for the premium they charge and I agree. There's never any misunderstanding, unexplained delays, or excuses for not accommodating a client. They do what they say, when they say they will, and on the rare occasion they don't, they rectify the situation immediately. There is value in this to me.

The same can be said for Steed. At the end of the day, you get what you pay for.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

Like I said, and as may be obvious from the resulting overcoat, it was a complicated concept with a lot of details diverging from their standard practice. The idea was hatched with Mariano. I simply didn't want to get too many hands stirring the pot and muddle up the project.

Definitely smart thinking.
post #4144 of 4251
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

Well, that's sort of a loaded question, though I know you didn't intend it that way. Anyone who fits you is going to fit you a little differently than the next guy. It's not a science. And even the same guy might fit you differently today than he might have yesterday.

Anyone jumping into bespoke needs to realize this. If one expects every garment by a tailor to be exactly the same they've got another thing coming. One should embrace the subtle differences between each commission. Adds character to the individual garments.
post #4145 of 4251
I think this and the shawl dinner suit are my favouite items you have, really beautiful.
post #4146 of 4251
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

Fair enough. My question was more whether Luca can help execute a very conservative, classic look. Good to hear he is; maybe I'll try to see him in LA sometime at the end of this year.
He absolutely can. I was anxious about having a fitting with him, but am very happy with the suits he did. He gives great suggestions and perhaps most importantly, listens to what you want and delivers that. It's been said here before, but he's different than what you probably expect given his online persona, he's quite charming and very knowledgable.
post #4147 of 4251
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slewfoot View Post

Anyone jumping into bespoke needs to realize this. If one expects every garment by a tailor to be exactly the same they've got another thing coming. One should embrace the subtle differences between each commission. Adds character to the individual garments.

And also, one should carefully consider each garment at each fitting and speak up about any differences you perceive and might be uncomfortable with.
post #4148 of 4251
mafoofan, why such grand lapels?
post #4149 of 4251
Mafoofan, simply put your coat is terrific. To my mind, it represents the best of bespoke--great fabric, beautiful fit, and styling that highlights the individuality of the wearer. It's a one-off masterpiece. I think the back pleat is made to kick--it screams bespoke. You are in good hands in LH. Btw, while in Naples, did you pick up any other treats from other artisans--shirts, ties, etc?
post #4150 of 4251
I generally hate skimpy lapels and I think an overcoat calls for larger ones than usual.
post #4151 of 4251
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slewfoot View Post

Anyone jumping into bespoke needs to realize this. If one expects every garment by a tailor to be exactly the same they've got another thing coming. One should embrace the subtle differences between each commission. Adds character to the individual garments.

That's why I shop exclusively at Joseph A Bank= Consistency!
post #4152 of 4251
Originally posted here:
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

Okay, here's the porn.

The coat is fully lined with the plaid cashmere, but the typical silk lining is laid over the shoulders and lines the sleeves (not shown).

foo_overcoatdetail_1_small_zps88b78fea.jpg

This loop can be used to fasten the fronts together so they don't flap around. As you can tell from the other button, you can also fasten it back to its own side if you want to keep it out of the way.

foo_overcoatdetail_2_small_zps00f98576.jpg

I can find only one interior pocket. Due to the horizontally oriented entry, I was worried it wouldn't be the right shape or size for my wallet. However, the pocket curves downward into a vertical rectangle, so the wallet slips in very easily. Strikes me as an unusual solution, but I'm no expert on overcoat construction.

foo_overcoatdetail_3_small_zpsffa29f79.jpg

foo_overcoatdetail_4_small_zps6c9f8b43.jpg

foo_overcoatdetail_5_small_zpsa628086f.jpg

foo_overcoatdetail_6_small_zps6027ad6f.jpg

You have to look carefully, but you can see that the lining is fully hand-stitched to the coat. I have to admit, I was at first surprised to hear how much they charge for an overcoat. It is more than a suit. I was imagining it shouldn't cost more than making a really long odd jacket. However, after seeing all the extra detail work that must go into this sort of thing, I totally understand. If nothing else, it must be real pain to hand-stitch so much thick and heavy cloth.

foo_overcoatdetail_7_small.jpg

The somewhat vestigial breast pocket. If I could have had it my way, it wouldn't exist. I don't like that it is so close to the top button.

foo_overcoatdetail_8_small_zpsbb191a86.jpg

The controversially chunky martingale. For what it's worth, I asked for it this wide--to the centimeter.

foo_overcoatdetail_9_small_zps6b591e33.jpg

The pleated rear opening. Very cool. The opening is stitched shut right where the belt ends.

foo_overcoatdetail_10_small_zpscce34a29.jpg

My eight centimeter cuffs. I asked for ten, but was vetoed. It turned out that everything is eight centimeters wide: the pocket flaps, the martingale belt, and the cuffs.

foo_overcoatdetail_11_small_zpscff09736.jpg

For those who missed them earlier, the envelope-style hip pockets. Or mailbox, mail-slot, whatever. I think an investigation into the various forms of such pockets would make for an interesting future (near future?) discussion. Apparently these are globally atypical, but a known form in Naples (see the last few pages).

My earlier guess that such pockets are unheard of in Naples is clearly wrong.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
funnypocket1_small_zpsc3733dc0.jpg

funnypocket2_small_zps27f8aef5.jpg

funnypocket3_small_zps15d9d01f.jpg

funnypocket4_small_zps3692047d.jpg
post #4153 of 4251
Truly spectacular, Foo.
post #4154 of 4251
Great to see the detail shots.
post #4155 of 4251
Great, thanks. Those patch pockets are quite normal for not too formal overcoats though, at least for me, or I 've seen them quite often in Italy from various bespoke tailors from all over the country in more or less similar shapes.
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