Styleforum

Advanced Search

Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › The Rubinacci Thread.

New Posts All Forums:Forum Nav:

The Rubinacci Thread. - Page 267

Subscribe Search This Thread

Start a New Thread

post #3991 of 4215

9/13/12 at 6:37am

Louis XIV

Posts: 1,525
Joined: 7/2011
Select All Posts By This User

Can someone explain to me, maybe with a picture, how an on/off seam pocket looks like?

Featured Stories on Styleforum

Follow Styleforum on Facebook for the latest news and our random ramblings

Derek Rose at Pitti Uomo 83

Fedora Lounge on Aero Leather jackets

post #3992 of 4215

9/13/12 at 6:42am

patrickBOOTH

Posts: 18,939
Joined: 10/2006
Location: New York City
Select All Posts By This User

Don't some trouser makers curve the side seam forward as it goes up the hip? I swear I have seen this before. An on-seam pocket would feel much more natural that way.

post #3993 of 4215

9/13/12 at 6:58am

kolecho

Posts: 2,846
Joined: 11/2004
Select All Posts By This User

Quote:

Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH

Don't some trouser makers curve the side seam forward as it goes up the hip? I swear I have seen this before. An on-seam pocket would feel much more natural that way.

Yes, mine does. The A&S ones curve even more.

post #3994 of 4215

9/13/12 at 7:09am

Kuro

Posts: 2,189
Joined: 9/2007
Select All Posts By This User

nvm
Edited by Kuro - 9/13/12 at 9:24am

post #3995 of 4215

9/13/12 at 8:41am

Despos

Posts: 5,165
Joined: 3/2006
Select All Posts By This User

^ That's a double pipe besom pocket, not on seam or slant/ 1/4 top

post #3996 of 4215

9/13/12 at 8:41am

romafan

Posts: 7,747
Joined: 12/2004
Location: NYC
Select All Posts By This User

Quote:

Originally Posted by ThinkDerm

This is very true of most places in the world. you go in a (small) shop with the intent to buy.
Some shops though are destinations, and they expect browsers.

Still, a bespoke operation is a different story altogether. Or so I'm told...

post #3997 of 4215

9/13/12 at 8:53am

Despos

Posts: 5,165
Joined: 3/2006
Select All Posts By This User

Quote:

Originally Posted by dieworkwear

Chris, I'm curious - I thought on-seam pockets were harder to fit than slant, no? Aside from them also being harder to get your hands into (which I agree), they also seem more likely to flare out when the trousers aren't cut right for the wearer. Slants don't seem to have this problem. Am I mistaken?

Quote:

Originally Posted by ThinkDerm

Quote:

Originally Posted by Despos

That was the reasoning I expected. Plain front trousers have to be cut just right to accommodate a 1/4 top (slant) pocket. Did you notice if they placed a small dart in the center of the front panel at the waist? This would help relieve the tightness at the midpoint and help the pocket lay flat. How they shape the curve of the hip and how the widest point of the hip matches your hip all matters.
I strongly dislike onseam pockets. There are not flattering and you have to reach back to access them. They don't expand enough when you put your hand in the pocket. I only use them on Tuxedo trousers and with regular pleats.

Chris, may I see some of your pants with off-seam pockets?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Louis XIV

Can someone explain to me, maybe with a picture, how an on/off seam pocket looks like?

Quote:

Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH

Don't some trouser makers curve the side seam forward as it goes up the hip? I swear I have seen this before. An on-seam pocket would feel much more natural that way.

die, don't think onseam is harder to make or fit but I adjust the hip curve so they don't look so curved and may main dislike is the look and position of the pocket. They tend to lay still until they get stretched a bit from use.

PB, the front trouser panel is curved over the hip and the pocket follows the line.

Louis and ThinkDerm, Have a few trousers made up with onseam pockets and doing fittings with plain front, 1/4 top pockets next week, will take pics. Will post them is Despos thread since they are not Rubinacci pockets and this is off topic.

post #3998 of 4215

9/13/12 at 10:32am

Louis XIV

Posts: 1,525
Joined: 7/2011
Select All Posts By This User

Thank you a lot in advance, Chris!

post #3999 of 4215

9/13/12 at 1:40pm

Eustace Tilley

Posts: 6,166
Joined: 9/2007
Location: New York
Select All Posts By This User

Quote:

Originally Posted by Manton

All my pants have on seam pockets and I never have had an problem with them.

post #4000 of 4215

9/16/12 at 7:08pm

nerdykarim

Posts: 1,911
Joined: 3/2006
Location: Athens, GA
Select All Posts By This User

edinatlanta visited LH last week and shot some pics.
He told me to post them a couple days ago but I'm only now getting around to it (sorry Ed!)

photos behind spoiler tag! (Click to show)