The Rubinacci Thread.

[forex]

Originally Posted by coolpapaboze

I did the same.

Any pics of your Bubinacci stuff?

 

[whnay.]

Originally Posted by mafoofan

What about on your dinner jacket? It's for pleasure, not business, yet it's also not casual . . . your system would drive me mad.
Shirt sleeves for the dinner suit - its my one exception. Did I show it to you?

 

[teddieriley]

Originally Posted by whnay.

Shirt sleeves for the dinner suit - its my one exception. Did I show it to you?

You mean us? No. Please poast. kthx.

 

[forex]

Can anyone please explain what a shirt sleeve is? I think I know it but I might be wrong, pictures would be nice along with explanation.

 

[TRINI]

Originally Posted by forex

Can anyone please explain what a shirt sleeve is? I think I know it but I might be wrong, pictures would be nice along with explanation.

Turn to your right and look at where your shirt's sleeve meets the body.

See the way it's stitched in there?

Now picture that on a sportcoat.

 

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by forex

Can anyone please explain what a shirt sleeve is? I think I know it but I might be wrong, pictures would be nice along with explanation.

Neapolitan Shoulder Explained, but do mind the underwear ads.


- B

 

[whnay.]

Originally Posted by teddieriley

You mean us? No. Please poast. kthx.

Its in this thread - do a search. I wore it to a wedding in January 2010.

 

[forex]

Originally Posted by TRINI

Turn to your right and look at where your shirt's sleeve meets the body.

See the way it's stitched in there?

Now picture that on a sportcoat.

With no padding/wadding? Should the coat be unstructured as well?

 

[whnay.]

Originally Posted by forex

With no padding/wadding? Should the coat be unstructured as well?

Yes, very little padding. Its typically unstructured but not obnoxiously so (it still has a canvas). It would strike you as casual if you see it in person.

 

[JPHardy]

Originally Posted by whnay.

Its in this thread - do a search. I wore it to a wedding in January 2010.

 

[aj_del]

^^ Nice

 

[aj_del]

Originally Posted by aj_del

Why do some shoulders on R suits look like the left most in the pic below, something like a shallow horizontal S

Pic from Esquire

Originally Posted by mafoofan

Because Esquire is often wrong.

So, the left most shoulder is perfectly acceptable, maybe even desirable ?

 

[whnay.]

Some details that I probably left out (why do I look so depressed?):

Shirt: T&A (Ribbed front, cotton voile fabric)
Studs: Vintage (Black onyx on sterling silver - acquired at a antique shop that morning in New Orleans)
Cufflinks: Budd (black and white checkerboard)
Bowtie: LH (grosgrain)
Pocket square: T&A (white silk with black edges)
Cummberbund: LH (grosgrain)
Suspenders: Albert Thurston for T&A (diamond pattern in black silk)
Shoes: Edward Green (Carnegie in patent leather)

 

[TheFoo]

Originally Posted by whnay.

Shirt sleeves for the dinner suit - its my one exception. Did I show it to you?
You did--I just didn't remember how you had the sleeves set. What I do remember is the blackness of the black of the cloth. Even under artificial lighting, it looked downright inky.

Originally Posted by forex

With no padding/wadding? Should the coat be unstructured as well?
Whether a sleeve is set as in a shirt (spalla camicia) has nothing to do with the amount of padding or wadding in the shoulder, or whether the jacket is unstructured. However, Rubinacci jackets are typically very soft and light, though still structured, and have minimal wadding or padding in the shoulder. On mine, you can feel a small triangle of very thin wadding behind the shoulder seam at the armscye. It's a myth that a "Neapolitan" jacket is an unstructured one.

Originally Posted by aj_del

So, the left most shoulder is perfectly acceptable, maybe even desirable ?
Well, it's a representative drawing, so it's hard to answer your question. However, I think that general profile, with an extended shoulder where the armscye begins some point after the shoulder's drop-off, can be perfectly correct. Esquire's advice is entirely geared toward RTW. They are not accounting for the different shoulder treatments that are possible in bespoke.

 

[JPHardy]

Originally Posted by whnay.

Some details that I probably left out (why do I look so depressed?):

Shirt: T&A (Ribbed front, cotton voile fabric)
Studs: Vintage (Black onyx on sterling silver - acquired at a antique shop that morning in New Orleans)
Cufflinks: Budd (black and white checkerboard)
Bowtie: LH (grosgrain)
Pocket square: T&A (white silk with black edges)
Cummberbund: LH (grosgrain)
Suspenders: Albert Thurston for T&A (diamond pattern in black silk)
Shoes: Edward Green (Carnegie in patent leather)

If the bow-tie was't so perfect, it would look perfect. If that makes sense.