The Rubinacci Thread. - Page 228

I picked up the first shirt produced by Rubinacci while in Naples this past weekend.  I ordered quite a few, however they produced just one to ensure the fit was correct.

Fabric is solid blue Riva cotton (feels like silk) with a spread collar and french cuffs.  I went for the option with included hand-stitched button holes, arms attached with hand-stitching and of course, all the buttons have the Neapolitan crow’s foot attachment. 

The rest of the shirt was machine stitched, which Mariano recommended would hold up better for regular use.  I have to say the hand-stitched detail is nice, yet subtle.  Also, I went with a traditional, non-fused collar and cuffs.  More difficult to iron, but much more character.  I’ll post some pics and close-ups once it’s washed and ironed. 

Originally Posted by wolveringGPW 

pics to come early next week.  

Bespoke Tie Order - TIES & DREAMS:

• Hand sewn, rolled edges
• 7 fold
• Minimal structure
• Length specific to my height, neck size and preferences
• Hand made means not perfect - these ties have character, as does the man who wears them…

If you visit Naples, Italy - you must visit Giorgio Ricciardi at TIES & DREAMS.  This is a small shop making ties in the original hand-made methods that so many houses have left behind for mass production.  

Skip Hermes, Ferragamo and Charvet - go bespoke! 

Great pics!   

I must confess, I shared the links for this thread with Mariano back in August so he could see what was out in the blogosphere a bit more.  If you've spent much time in Naples during August/September you'll much more understand the unbuttoned look.  It's not London, this is Naples and in my experience a bit more relaxed (and unbuttoning acceptable)... 

Without much ado - I pick up my first order this Friday - pics to come early next week.   

Now I just need to pray that the rain forecast for Naples this weekend clears up and the sun sneaks through!

@ThinkDerm - what are you interested in re. the ties?   They were entirely hand-stitched with hand-rolled edges, minimal structure and had an interesting feature called a "frizione" which literally translates to clutch (like the one you use to shift gears in a car).  It's a small loop of thread towards the end of the narrow tie end, in the center, that Giorgio told me was there because it must be!  No use what so ever, just a sartorial detail.  Prices were fair in my opinion, 120e each.

Can't wait to pick up my first order.  Lots of research, many failed attempts with far inferior tailoring houses and my 4th trip to Naples in 3 months - I am sure it will all be worth it!