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The Rubinacci Thread. - Page 226

post #3376 of 4250
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Originally Posted by davesmith View Post

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only see the women so far...
 

 


....cowards porn.
post #3377 of 4250
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cravate_Noire View Post


Still fritzl's guess was ca.1k€ too low...

Very soon a totally untructured jacket should be ready for me, even without any canvassing or inlay in the lapels...the man who makes it is ca.80years old and never did stuff like that, so I wonder if he is going to stuff a broomstick in all Italian-tailor asses (incl. those I use) by sheer cutting technique and finishing.

The guy is going to slap you in the face for not mentioning his ironing skills, though.
post #3378 of 4250
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cravate_Noire View Post


Still fritzl's guess was ca.1k€ too low...

Very soon a totally untructured jacket should be ready for me, even without any canvassing or inlay in the lapels...the man who makes it is ca.80years old and never did stuff like that, so I wonder if he is going to stuff a broomstick in all Italian-tailor asses (incl. those I use) by sheer cutting technique and finishing.

I've got a totally unstructured overcoat, made from a wool-blend that has a hand like jersey, maybe I should post a pic up.
post #3379 of 4250
Quote:
Originally Posted by apropos View Post


I've got a totally unstructured overcoat, made from a wool-blend that has a hand like jersey, maybe I should post a pic up.

Would love to see a pic of the overcoat.
post #3380 of 4250
Quote:
Originally Posted by apropos View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cravate_Noire View Post


Still fritzl's guess was ca.1k€ too low...

Very soon a totally untructured jacket should be ready for me, even without any canvassing or inlay in the lapels...the man who makes it is ca.80years old and never did stuff like that, so I wonder if he is going to stuff a broomstick in all Italian-tailor asses (incl. those I use) by sheer cutting technique and finishing.

I've got a totally unstructured overcoat, made from a wool-blend that has a hand like jersey, maybe I should post a pic up.

I am talking about a sportsocoat, unstructured overcoat is easier to do.
Also I am pretty sure that your unstructured overcoat has some structure that hides under the overcoating fabric (in the lapels most probably), but I would love to see photos.
I have seen Italian made jackets that felt like nothing and had super soft fusibles in the back-shoulder area fro stabilization and this was only obvious beacuse a part of the jacket's interior was ripped...it is very difficult to do a real zero-canvas, zero-padding jacket...
post #3381 of 4250
Why not use wool cloth, sportcoat or outercoat weight, cut like a jacket and sewn like a shirt for a totally unstructured, soft jacket or coat.
post #3382 of 4250
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post

Why not use wool cloth, sportcoat or outercoat weight, cut like a jacket and sewn like a shirt for a totally unstructured, soft jacket or coat.

Unless you work with a “true double cloth”, there is always the clumsiness of the edge finish. Taking a jacket-weight fabric and working flat-felled seams will add not inconsiderable bulk. That's where the “double-face” comes in:
Quote:
A fabric construction, in which two fabrics are woven on the loom at the same time, one on top of the other. In the weaving processo layers of woven fabric are held together using binder threads. The woven patterns in each layer of fabric can be similar or completely different.

So, a "true double cloth" is a fabric with two warps and three wefts, made up as two distinct fabrics lightly connected by the third or binding weft. The two layers can be separated by carefully snipping the binding thread.

Contemporary couture designers use "true" double cloth to make self-lined or reversible coats and jackets by using hand-finishing techniques such as separating the two layers at the hem and turning the raw edges under.

Here are instructions on how to work with double-face cloth (without producing visible underlays), which will involve a great deal of handwork.

http://www.sewinspirational.com.au/sewing/fashion-sewing/Sewing_Double_Faced_Fabrics

http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/16568/the-double-cloth-patch-pocket
post #3383 of 4250
I want to try making something unlined and unstructured from double faced cloth sometime. Have always wanted to but didn't have time to experiment.

Ariston and Zegna have put beautiful double faced goods in their line over the last couple seasons. I did buy a solid charcoal with a houndstooth on the other side this summer. Cloth is backordered and hasn't come back into stock yet.
post #3384 of 4250
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post

Why not use wool cloth, sportcoat or outercoat weight, cut like a jacket and sewn like a shirt for a totally unstructured, soft jacket or coat.

Then the jacket would have almost no shape I guess...I want to use it as a white DJ (!!), only want the unstructured feel...
post #3385 of 4250
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cravate_Noire View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post

Why not use wool cloth, sportcoat or outercoat weight, cut like a jacket and sewn like a shirt for a totally unstructured, soft jacket or coat.

Then the jacket would have almost no shape I guess...I want to use it as a white DJ (!!), only want the unstructured feel...

White barathea for the cloth, no mohair, no silk. White hymo, no haircloth in the chest. No shoulder pad. If the cloth has good body, no sleeve head. White jacket is better when fully lined, IMO.
post #3386 of 4250
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cravate_Noire View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post

Why not use wool cloth, sportcoat or outercoat weight, cut like a jacket and sewn like a shirt for a totally unstructured, soft jacket or coat.

Then the jacket would have almost no shape I guess...I want to use it as a white DJ (!!), only want the unstructured feel...

White barathea for the cloth, no mohair, no silk. White hymo, no haircloth in the chest. No shoulder pad. If the cloth has good body, no sleeve head. White jacket is better when fully lined, IMO.

It is some old off white fresco my German tailor had lying around. It's more of an experiment, I am going to use it as a sportsjacket as well...
It has absolutely no "filler" of any type inside or in the sleeves...will see tomorrow how it will turn out...
post #3387 of 4250
Curious to see this. I can't tell what it is from your description.
post #3388 of 4250
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post

Curious to see this. I can't tell what it is from your description.

Totally unstructred jacket that looks structured. Not that complicated (though complicated to make, actually unseen in today's "sweater jacket" crazy world) smile.gif.
post #3389 of 4250

Won't that unlined white fresco be very transparent? Be careful of what you wear underneath!    happy.gif

post #3390 of 4250

Just returned from a 10 day holiday in Naples, Positano and Capri during which I had my first fitting with Mr. Rubinacci.  I'll post again shortly about the overall experience in detail - but let me summarize that Mariano is one of the warmest, kindest gentlemen I have ever met.  My stay at Casa Rubinacci (cashmere suite) was amazing and the hospitality, warmth and graciousness of my hosts were felt during the entire trip.  He and his wife even went out of their way to stay at the same hotel as me in Positano to join for dinner one night - true class that is rarely found in this modern world we call home.  

 

And now what you all want to look at and discuss - the pics of the fitting.  Overall I am very pleased with how the suit is coming together.  I return in 2 weeks for the second fitting and can't wait to see how it comes together.  

 

Without further ado...

 

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