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The Rubinacci Thread. - Page 222

post #3316 of 4250

Quote:

Originally Posted by quar View Post

Great pictures. Do post more if you have some. smile.gif

 

looks fantastic, i hope to be there at the end of fall!!!!!!!
 

 

post #3317 of 4250
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cravate_Noire View Post

I would just ask Rubinacci to do what you want, they are both no tailors (I guess most of SF actually didnt know that...) but rather efficient mediators to those people who cut and make your item and used to that.
Other than with many other tailoring houses you wont have to debate with the actual cutter/tailor that something's not like you want it to be and than listen to the explanatations why the way they made it is the only possible way to do it...

What do you mean when you say Mariano is not a tailor? Doesn't he manually take measurements, cut and sew by himself every suit he has been ordered?
After over 40 years of experience and "getting hands dirty" in this industry, he is a tailor.
How many tailors do you know with the number of international customers he has and all the assets he manages who makes everything from the scratch for every customer?
post #3318 of 4250
Quote:
Originally Posted by MrKaizen View Post


What do you mean when you say Mariano is not a tailor? Doesn't he manually take measurements, cut and sew by himself every suit he has been ordered?
After over 40 years of experience and "getting hands dirty" in this industry, he is a tailor.
How many tailors do you know with the number of international customers he has and all the assets he manages who makes everything from the scratch for every customer?

No.
post #3319 of 4250
Quote:
Originally Posted by MrKaizen View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cravate_Noire View Post

I would just ask Rubinacci to do what you want, they are both no tailors (I guess most of SF actually didnt know that...) but rather efficient mediators to those people who cut and make your item and used to that.
Other than with many other tailoring houses you wont have to debate with the actual cutter/tailor that something's not like you want it to be and than listen to the explanatations why the way they made it is the only possible way to do it...

What do you mean when you say Mariano is not a tailor? Doesn't he manually take measurements, cut and sew by himself every suit he has been ordered?
After over 40 years of experience and "getting hands dirty" in this industry, he is a tailor.
How many tailors do you know with the number of international customers he has and all the assets he manages who makes everything from the scratch for every customer?

You seem feel offended, wowza. However you dont seem to have that much insight (at least I assume that), as taking measurements/darfting the pattern/cutting and sewing the suit together are totally different things, just like lastmaking and clicking the leather (and everything else except for lastmasking) for a bespoke shoe.
The priority and therefore hierachy in who makes what is typically very different.
I do have one tailor who makes everything, even sews the buttonholes, but if he still had a regular bespoke business he would only take measurements, draft pattern and cut.
But he would insist that it's only him who does these steps.


If Rubinaccis are excellent stylists with excellent cutters and tailors doing the tailoring, where's your problem?
I remember that some people here were sceptical about NSM because the person that takes the measurements and visits the client is not the same person that cuts...
Quote:
After over 40 years of experience and "getting hands dirty" in this industry, he is a tailor.

No. Also, dirty hands does not go really well with Rubinacci, even figuratively.

I know a tailoring house where the cutter that takes measurements cuts ALL suits himself and the produce ca.3/4 of Rubinacci's output.
However, you see that Rubinacci has lots of satisfied clients, a friend of mine who went there on my recommendation (we actually went together) says that it was really worth it and that they are among his favourites (and he had about anything SF admires).
And he was looked after by Luca, who has at least 20 years less experience in "getting his hands dirty".
I am just wanted to say what's up...
post #3320 of 4250
Thread Starter 
It's widely known, at least among LH clients, that Mariano is a "taste" maker or a stylist rather than an actual tailor. That doesn't mean, however, that he has limited knowledge of the process and or an understanding of the nuances of the profession. You won't find my people, not to mention tailors, that have been in the business as long as he has. I liken him to an orcestra director if anything else.

In any case, I'm not sure why it matters that much. I find most of my bespoke misfortunes were the cause of my inability to communicate clearly to my tailor. Mariano, in my experience, has acted like a better equipped filter between the tailor and me.
post #3321 of 4250
Quote:
Originally Posted by whnay. View Post

It's widely known, at least among LH clients, that Mariano is a "taste" maker or a stylist rather than an actual tailor. That doesn't mean, however, that he has limited knowledge of the process and or an understanding of the nuances of the profession. You won't find my people, not to mention tailors, that have been in the business as long as he has. I liken him to an orcestra director if anything else.

In any case, I'm not sure why it matters that much. I find most of my bespoke misfortunes were the cause of my inability to communicate clearly to my tailor. Mariano, in my experience, has acted like a better equipped filter between the tailor and me.


That's quite exactly what I said, same thing is true for Simone Righi and TYT bespoke that is made by Seminara e.g. (though much more fascinating as the cutter is not even present at the fittings).

Well it matters, because of this:
Quote:
In any case, I'm not sure why it matters that much. I find most of my bespoke misfortunes were the cause of my inability to communicate clearly to my tailor. Mariano, in my experience, has acted like a better equipped filter between the tailor and me.

You don't need a good tailor...you need a consultant to guide your for the process , at least when you are not used to use a tailor from your youth. [Forum member Vaux le Vicomte even started to offer a "bespoke consulting" service to accompany clients to very small Italian tailors!].

Quote:
It's widely known, at least among LH clients

Well, that actually doesnt cover with "most of SF" I guess crackup[1].gif


It is just interesting to see what assumptions are errected here by some posters on who is what and for which reasons.


Anyway, have you heard the latest sartorial news from the Naples?
Curved patch pockets have been registered and patented and soon it may come to a precedent!
From Attolini to Cimmino, Panico, G.Solito etc.etc. to Rubinacci all are alarmed of this recent absurd(real)ity.
post #3322 of 4250

A shameless plug - I've decided to launch a new blog focused on my sartorial interests, beautiful women, travel, food, wine and other interesting things (global economy to B&W photography).

 

I'll post many more pics there of the Rubinacci process as well as my adventures on holiday in Naples, Amalfi and Capri the second half of August.  I hope you'll visit the site and comment away.

 

http://sophistical-rhetorician.tumblr.com/

 

 

post #3323 of 4250

Quote:

Originally Posted by wolveringGPW View Post

A shameless plug - I've decided to launch a new blog focused on my sartorial interests, beautiful women, travel, food, wine and other interesting things (global economy to B&W photography).

 

I'll post many more pics there of the Rubinacci process as well as my adventures on holiday in Naples, Amalfi and Capri the second half of August.  I hope you'll visit the site and comment away.

 

http://sophistical-rhetorician.tumblr.com/

 

 

 

only see the women so far...
 

 

post #3324 of 4250
Quote:
Originally Posted by davesmith View Post

Quote:

 

only see the women so far...
 

 


So what???
post #3325 of 4250

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cravate_Noire View Post

So what???


wasn't complaining just wanted to get the full picture of the blog fing02[1].gif

post #3326 of 4250

It's about all the things I love and beautiful women top that list...

post #3327 of 4250

Quote:

Originally Posted by wolveringGPW View Post

It's about all the things I love and beautiful women top that list...


bigstar[1].gif

post #3328 of 4250

The Permanent Style guy finished his Rubinacci jacket. I like the material. Funny, they did the phantom pockets like Manton's Solito. I guess this is quite common with unlined jackets.

 

Rubinacci 1-2.JPG

 

Rubinacci 4.JPG

post #3329 of 4250
I like the Poole the best on him.
post #3330 of 4250
I hate those pockets. Patch would've looked great.
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