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The Rubinacci Thread. - Page 220

post #3286 of 4329
Just saw the picture of the blue jacket and the concave shoulder you prefer. This is the default style shoulder Mina does, she would be your best bet.
post #3287 of 4329
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

If you can't speak Italian, I'd highly recommend sticking with Rubinacci. You cannot underestimate the importance of being able to communicate effectively with your tailor, particularly since it sounds like you have some particular preferences regarding shoulder treatment.

Also, I would not order two suits to start with any tailor. Do one and see how it goes.

No, Rubinacci shirts are not comparable to Anna's shirts in terms of handwork. Only the sleeve attachment and buttonholes are handsewn, and that's on the upgraded, more expensive shirt (300 euros). Anna's shirts have handsewn collars, sleeve attachments, side seams, buttonholes, etc. Also, from the examples I've seen, Anna's hand-stitching is a magnitude finer. The upside for Rubinacci is that it is slightly easier to deal with them from overseas--but then, you're in Europe to begin with. Just make sure you are getting the fully hand-sewn shirt when you order from Anna. They get that mixed up sometimes.

+1 on the communication Napoli there are many tailors offering the a similar quality and contruction, but who will tell you to come back 2 weeks later for a fitting when you think you have an appointment and everything is prepared...also things like different payments modes, tax free and especially after-service if you want changes etc. are not really "Neapolitan" with a few exceptions.
A forum member waited 18 months for his Solitos (I dont remember which Solito though) as they simply forgot about him...
post #3288 of 4329
Originally Posted by Cravate_Noire View Post

A forum member waited 18 months for his Solitos (I dont remember which Solito though) as they simply forgot about him...

post #3289 of 4329
Originally Posted by Despos View Post

Just saw the picture of the blue jacket and the concave shoulder you prefer[...].

You mean this one?
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

Like this? This is a quarter inch pad with a slight rope.


Isn't it slightly convex rather than concave?
post #3290 of 4329
That's what I thought as well.
post #3291 of 4329
^ I believe Despos was referring to the blue coat that now shows up in posts # 3274 + 3275...
post #3292 of 4329
That is convex to my eye still?
post #3293 of 4329
Oh, just something funny:
I had the chance to talk with the guy from the company that sold the silk linings to Rubinacci...until they stopped to deliver to Rubinacci because they were not paid (they still sell silk linings to Caraceni).
Pretty Neapolitan, I also know a seamstresser who works at home and stopped sewing the buttonholes for Finamore because they thought that they could pay her whenever they wanted...
post #3294 of 4329

Ah ok, now I understand, yes, the left looks concave to me, though pretty wobbly for a structured shoulder.

I believe this here is one of Ed's (?) NSM coats


No rollino, but clean concave shoulder.
post #3295 of 4329

Yes, the shoulders in the SJ above are closer to what I had in mind, but with maybe the slightest rollino.


Here is a pic (gorgeous jacket) that shows what I want to avoid in the shoulder - of course simply a preference of mine and no offense intended.  Here you see two separate angles on the shoulder line - one that goes from the bottom of the collar to the top of the "real" shoulder inside, then a second line with a deeper drop to the top of the sleeve head.  Although I'm sure this is a comfort addition and might make sense for casual SJs, I prefer a single line which is cleaner in my opinion for professional business situations.





From what I understand, Rubinacci can make what I describe as well, but I'm interested in feedback.  


I've not heard of Mila before and therefore am a little skeptical, but would be willing to consider if others have some good experiences.  Are her suits also 100% hand-sewn?


I'm willing to put the recommendations (within limits) in the hands of Mariano to see what he recommends for my frame and build.  I have wide shoulders but a 32" waist and I'm tall.  I want a well fit bespoke suit that is proportional to my dimensions and that does little to accentuate my already strong shoulder/neck line.




post #3296 of 4329
Mina = NSM
post #3297 of 4329
If you don't speak Italian or don't have anyone who can assist you with the translation, Rubinacci, Attolini and Napoli Su Misura seem to be the best option for first attempt. All of them will probably make what you want if you can explain what exactly you desire. NSM is the cheapest and if you want to try two different tailors, I would also try visiting her.
post #3298 of 4329
i agree with what foo said ^10000000
regarding teh language barrier.

how did you manage
did you have someone translating
everytime you talked to the tailors?
post #3299 of 4329
Me? I was probably lucky.
When I visited Volpe, one of his seamstress was from Ukraine. She made all the translations that I could not explain myself.
At the Pirozzi his daughter speaks basic English, which was enough for me.
At some places I used mobile translator.
post #3300 of 4329
Wolverine, there's actually little to no shoulder extension in that lambswool jacket you posted. The change in angle is not due to the jacket falling my shoulder, but because I have pronounced clavicles. Unless the jacket shoulder is padded to straighten things out, that is the inevitable result. From my understanding, Mariano prefers to let your own shoulder line show through and that is what they do best.

Whnay's jacket shoulders are also unpadded--he just has differently shaped shoulders than mine.
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