Recent Images In This Thread
Related Forum Threads
- Does this SC look dated ? New SC added on page 2 Last post on 9/5/11 at 10:37am in Classic Menswear
- How does this grey suit brown shoe combo look? Last post on 4/22/12 at 10:47pm in Classic Menswear
- Style Question - Checked shirt w/ pinstripe suit Last post on 8/21/10 at 9:01pm in Classic Menswear
- Please critique my first suit! Last post on 9/15/11 at 8:36am in Classic Menswear
- Thoughts and opinions on Gray SC, Pocket square and tie combos........ Last post on 4/6/14 at 11:56pm in Classic Menswear
How Should I Start My Business Wardrobe?
Last edited: 5/16/13
- David Looks Back at Pitti Uomo 88Last edited: 7/26/15
- What I learned from my own wedding day, and how it can help you.Last edited: 7/9/15
- Tokyo Diaries, Day 1: It Begins! Ring Jacket, Petrosolaum, and Jun...Last edited: 6/22/15
- Mad Men Is Totally Wrong About Suits and I Hate ItLast edited: 5/7/15
- Andrew Lock
- The Armoury
- Buttons 'n' Threads
- David Fin
- David Reeves Bespoke
- Drinkwater's Cambridge
- Equus Leather
- Exquisite Trimmings
- A Fine Pair of Shoes
- Geil Mode
- Gentlemen's Footwear
- Gordon Yao, Hong Kong
- The Hanger Project
- Henry Carter Neckwear
- Howard Yount
- John Elliott + Co
- Kent Wang
- Khaki's of Carmel
- Luxire Custom Clothing
- M Classic 101
- Meermin Mallorca
- Need Supply Co.
- No Man Walks Alone
- Oak Room
- Paul Evans
- Percy Ivor
- Portland Dry Goods
- Proper Cloth
- S.E.H Kelly
- Self Edge
- Spier & Mackay
- Suspension Point
- Taylor Stitch
- Temple of jawnz
- Thurston Bros.
- Uncle Otis
- Virtual Clotheshorse
- Wolf vs. Goat
- Wrong Weather
- Yellow Hook Necktie
- Zampa Di Gallina
The Rubinacci Thread. - Page 220
Styleforum Top Pickspost #3287 of 42947/27/11 at 12:45pmQuote:Originally Posted by mafoofan
If you can't speak Italian, I'd highly recommend sticking with Rubinacci. You cannot underestimate the importance of being able to communicate effectively with your tailor, particularly since it sounds like you have some particular preferences regarding shoulder treatment.
Also, I would not order two suits to start with any tailor. Do one and see how it goes.
No, Rubinacci shirts are not comparable to Anna's shirts in terms of handwork. Only the sleeve attachment and buttonholes are handsewn, and that's on the upgraded, more expensive shirt (300 euros). Anna's shirts have handsewn collars, sleeve attachments, side seams, buttonholes, etc. Also, from the examples I've seen, Anna's hand-stitching is a magnitude finer. The upside for Rubinacci is that it is slightly easier to deal with them from overseas--but then, you're in Europe to begin with. Just make sure you are getting the fully hand-sewn shirt when you order from Anna. They get that mixed up sometimes.
+1 on the communication aspect...in Napoli there are many tailors offering the a similar quality and contruction, but who will tell you to come back 2 weeks later for a fitting when you think you have an appointment and everything is prepared...also things like different payments modes, tax free and especially after-service if you want changes etc. are not really "Neapolitan" with a few exceptions.
A forum member waited 18 months for his Solitos (I dont remember which Solito though) as they simply forgot about him...post #3288 of 42947/27/11 at 1:00pmpost #3289 of 42947/27/11 at 1:57pmpost #3290 of 42947/27/11 at 1:58pmpost #3291 of 42947/27/11 at 2:09pmpost #3292 of 42947/27/11 at 2:14pmpost #3293 of 42947/27/11 at 2:32pmOh, just something funny:
I had the chance to talk with the guy from the company that sold the silk linings to Rubinacci...until they stopped to deliver to Rubinacci because they were not paid (they still sell silk linings to Caraceni).
Pretty Neapolitan, I also know a seamstresser who works at home and stopped sewing the buttonholes for Finamore because they thought that they could pay her whenever they wanted...post #3294 of 42947/27/11 at 2:38pmpost #3295 of 42947/27/11 at 9:46pm
Yes, the shoulders in the SJ above are closer to what I had in mind, but with maybe the slightest rollino.
Here is a pic (gorgeous jacket) that shows what I want to avoid in the shoulder - of course simply a preference of mine and no offense intended. Here you see two separate angles on the shoulder line - one that goes from the bottom of the collar to the top of the "real" shoulder inside, then a second line with a deeper drop to the top of the sleeve head. Although I'm sure this is a comfort addition and might make sense for casual SJs, I prefer a single line which is cleaner in my opinion for professional business situations.
From what I understand, Rubinacci can make what I describe as well, but I'm interested in feedback.
I've not heard of Mila before and therefore am a little skeptical, but would be willing to consider if others have some good experiences. Are her suits also 100% hand-sewn?
I'm willing to put the recommendations (within limits) in the hands of Mariano to see what he recommends for my frame and build. I have wide shoulders but a 32" waist and I'm tall. I want a well fit bespoke suit that is proportional to my dimensions and that does little to accentuate my already strong shoulder/neck line.post #3296 of 42947/27/11 at 10:02pmpost #3297 of 42947/27/11 at 11:11pmIf you don't speak Italian or don't have anyone who can assist you with the translation, Rubinacci, Attolini and Napoli Su Misura seem to be the best option for first attempt. All of them will probably make what you want if you can explain what exactly you desire. NSM is the cheapest and if you want to try two different tailors, I would also try visiting her.post #3298 of 42947/28/11 at 12:17ampost #3299 of 42947/28/11 at 2:32ampost #3300 of 42947/28/11 at 7:29amWolverine, there's actually little to no shoulder extension in that lambswool jacket you posted. The change in angle is not due to the jacket falling my shoulder, but because I have pronounced clavicles. Unless the jacket shoulder is padded to straighten things out, that is the inevitable result. From my understanding, Mariano prefers to let your own shoulder line show through and that is what they do best.
Whnay's jacket shoulders are also unpadded--he just has differently shaped shoulders than mine.
- The Rubinacci Thread.
Styleforum Top Picks
- David Looks Back at Pitti Uomo 88
- › NFL 2015-16 Thread 44 seconds ago
- › Munich in the summer 52 seconds ago
- › Saint Laurent Paris - Official Thread. 1 minute ago
- › ***The official Alden thread *** 1 minute ago
- › HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part IV (starting May 2014) 2 minutes ago
- › All Things Hippity and Hoppity 2 minutes ago
- › John Elliott + Co - official affiliate thread 3 minutes ago
- › *** Visvim thread: Dissertation on a Japanese Holy Spirit *** 3 minutes ago
- › The Official Los Angeles Shopping + Dining Thread 4 minutes ago
- › Things that are pissing you off. 4 minutes ago
- › Carmina for Epaulet Grey Suede Steinbeck Boot by Patek
- › Human Scales Denny Suede Double Monkstraps by Mrvaerk
- › Brathwait - The classic slim wrist watch by Mrvaerk
- › Ps Paul Smith Laced shoes by yucaseca
- › Tom Ford FT5237 Eyeglasses Color 098 by Mrvaerk
- › Irish Setter Men's 838 Wingshooter 6" Waterproof Lace-up... by seanhorween
- › Borsa Long sleeve shirt by techstyles
- › Neil Barrett - LEATHER TROUSERS by newway
- › Mandarina Duck City Messenger by josh89
- › Quoddy True Penny Loafer by ppith
- › Styleforum Visits Blue Blue Japan
- › Styleforum Eats its Way Through Tokyo
- › David Looks Back at Pitti Uomo 88
- › Streetstyle: The Best Pictures From Pitti...
- › The Styleforum Brief: July, 2015
- › Carmina Shoes Presents: Five Shoes for Five...
- › Help! I need a suit for a wedding!
- › What I learned from my own wedding day, and...
- › Look nice, Dammit: Why you should care - and...
- › Tokyo Diaries, Day 4: Epic Tokyo Photo Dump -...