The Rubinacci Thread.

First to everyone, thanks for the comments and suggestions...they are all very helpful. A couple of responses:

• I think the shirt sleeve showing is fine, I'm ok with showing a little on the side of too much than not enough.
  
  
• Baron to address your point, I simply don't know though I would suspect that given the level of customer service that he'd accommodate most reasonable requests.
  
  
• The inner button was not fastened when the pics were taken, if you guys like I'd be more than happy to take another with it buttoned. That I believe could be the cause of the slight pull.
  
  
• The trousers are the right length, I think I had bent down and they had slipped slightly down causing the effect in the picture. They are side tabs. Lovely details.

You guys are sooooooo picky! The dimple in the chest doesn't mean a thing.

What I like; the waist is shaped in the right place. It is high and above the button position. Makes the whole look. You can see this from the front and the back.

What is unique; The height that the front darts extend to. Almost touching the breast pocket. Not so unique but most of the seams are lapped and top stitched.

What I would change; angle and height of the peak. The sharp upward angle of the peaks creates contrast between the lapel and the shoulder slope. I would also like to see a bit more chest between the lapel edge and the sleeve. I would extend the shoulder a touch so the top part of the sleeves don't take on this ( ) shape into the shoulder. A bit fuller chest would broaden the upper body. I would not make the lapels narrower. Maybe make them wider.

As is, the lapel edge runs parallel to the sleeve line into the chest and that is a good design element on its own, creates a good line. It's just another styling approach, you can take your pick.
I would like to see 2 jackets with the different lapel and chest shapes to know which is more flattering. I think the OP said he has a Rubinacci jacket made with a different shoulder. Would like to see and compare.

Looking at Rubinacci jackets I see authentic Italian expression. You can't duplicate this. It is like eating Italian food in Italy. Italian food in the US is not the same.

I think Bill's suit looks great. Some of you are picky to the point of absurdity, IMO. Here are a couple of mine.

^^^

All of Matt's photos have the wider shoulder, fuller chest look I refer to in my previous post. The pics make my point. This cut emphasizes the chest and upper body, the high waist trims and elongates the body line.

Wow, beautiful DB suit Bill! Also, nice idea about creating a Rubinacci thread.

Frankly, I'm not impressed by the OP's suit.

Originally Posted by iammatt

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I think the shape of the coat is great, but it looks too short in relation to the trousers. Maybe the rise of the trousers is not high enough?

You bastards.

Just when I'd almost justified the cost of A&S.

All the garments displayed are gorgious, even the fabrics are lovely, both from the OP and poker-player-Ianmatt.

I wonder, particularly since Ianmatt is fluent in Italian, how you all settled on Rubinacci as a tailor when there are tailors in Naples that are half the cost (sic?) but have excellent reputations, for example Panico.

Were I to be selecting tailors internationally, I would be headed for the "expatriots" from the greatest firms, for example see the A&S thread. Panico for Rubinacci, Anderson etc for Hunstsman. I am only speaking crudely here, I do not know any of these people and I rely on the Internet to understand the familial relationships. Actually, I would probably end up at the even more undercover tailors. They are less expensive and I love the feeling of "objet trouve". Again, I am just asking, these garments are exquisite, to my eye, particularly the tweed odd jacket whose pattern I love.

Language is a wonderful asset, were Paris the mecca that Naples is I would be like a pig in ****. My Romanian tailor Negrila is probably the best Bucharest has to offer and I found him due to my Romanian language abilities, and due to cultural differences he has significant limitations, at least at a distance.

Originally Posted by brescd01

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poker-player-Ianmatt.
Just to translate for those not initiated into the ways of Bresch. This means that Matt has declined to provide David with all the receipts from his clothing purchases, as well as his tax returns, because Matt is churlish and unreasonable. Because, I mean, who wouldn't want to provide all that private information to some Internet freak who obsessively and repeatedly demands it as his right to know?

Whoa dude, switch to decaf...

Originally Posted by kcc

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Okay shot-caller, when are you gonna' post your pics?

A couple weeks ago - I just got a sportscoat so far.

Seriously though, Mariano's NY visits are coordinated out of the London shop so, as far as I know, everything is done as it would be if you had been measured in London (with the obvious but important exception that a tailor isn't there for the fittings).

Prices are sterling and are basically what's been noted above.

RJMan, my thoughts exactly.

Originally Posted by teh Bresch

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RJman, my thoughts exactly.

You're not doing me any favors by agreeing with me.