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Double Breasted Style. - Page 64

post #946 of 1365
It's incorrect, or at least inaccurate, in context. He's calling a 6x3 a "six-button" model to distinguish it from the other DBs pictured, most of which also carry six buttons.

To be fair: Pask is describing a 6x3 immediately after describing a 4x2 and calls the former "a higher, six-button model." (Notice that this again confuses button stance and button arrangement.) But the most obvious difference between a 4x2 and a 6x3 is not the total number of buttons, nor the height of the working buttons relative to other coats with the same button arrangment; rather, it's how many buttons fasten. So it's inaccurate to call that 6x3 "a higher, six-button model" than that 4x2. The label doesn't describe the crucial difference. But I take it that Pask does see the crucial difference: so I conclude that he's using the wrong words to describe it.
post #947 of 1365
Quote:
Originally Posted by Testudo_Aubreii View Post

The NYT's T Magazine has a blog post on DBs seen at the Milan runways:
http://tmagazine.blogs.nytimes.com/2012/01/17/coming-soon-double-breasted-suits/?hpw
Most are disasters

+1, are these people mentally challenged? Year and after, the only mens 'fashion' that gets turned out on runways is whimsical ill-fitting crap that no one will ever wear; and ignorant writers talk about how great it is, when the average senior SF member probably knows twice as much. I just find it incredibly odd that the only source we seem to have for well-fitted, skillfully executed suits is relegated to the hidden corners of internet forums posted by the clients themselves. These designers need to realize that the mens suit is not a women's garment you can flamboyantly change at will; it's a set, concrete form that you can slightly engineer in different ways to get different looks, that's the art and fun of it.
post #948 of 1365
It is sad that today, when the vast majority of people discuss clothes, they discuss designers' confections or shoddy RTW makers. This when in the 1950s and 1960s, more than 60% of Italian men wore bespoke clothes, or so it is said.
post #949 of 1365
Quote:
Originally Posted by Testudo_Aubreii View Post

It is sad that today, when the vast majority of people discuss clothes, they discuss designers' confections or shoddy RTW makers. This when in the 1950s and 1960s, more than 60% of Italian men wore bespoke clothes, or so it is said.

 

Probably because there's not many designers to select from in those days, and taste probably gravitated toward the tradition vs tacky/seasonal designs.

 

Though I think the artisan attributes are making a comeback to some of the designers ...

post #950 of 1365

I kinda regretted that I threw away a double breasted sportscoat that I threw away - but that coat was more than twenty years old and it was a grayish green that was popular in the early nineties. 

 

It's hard to find a nice OTR double breasted suit with a nice fit.  I tried on this one at the store in San Francisco but they stocked in in dark brown:

 

http://www.paulsmith.co.uk/shop/paul-smith-suits-382/paul-smith-suits-double-breasted-slim-fit-2-button-suit-pexl-9994-t11-l/product.html

 

It's a bit slimmer fit but for that price I feel I can have one made truly to my preferences.

post #951 of 1365
Quote:
Originally Posted by whnay. View Post


now this is classic style

 

 

post #952 of 1365
Quote:
Originally Posted by pocketsquareguy View Post
 

 

What would one say the distance between the pinstripes on a suit like this would be? I'd like to get something similar to this made, but I can't gauge fabric -> suit too well, and I wouldn't want something too narrow or bold in stripes. The suit in the above picture would be ideal.

post #953 of 1365
My guess is around 2/3" or 1.6cm repeat between stripes.Those are rope stripes, not pin stripes. They are bold. Whether they are too bold is up to you.

For a similar fabric, check out 9718 in the Dugdale/Thos Fisher Royal Classic book (scroll down):
http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=746
post #954 of 1365
Quote:
Originally Posted by Testudo_Aubreii View Post

My guess is around 2/3" or 1.6cm repeat between stripes.Those are rope stripes, not pin stripes. They are bold. Whether they are too bold is up to you.
For a similar fabric, check out 9718 in the Dugdale/Thos Fisher Royal Classic book (scroll down):
http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=746


Much appreciated, thanks!

post #955 of 1365

Great style. DB with patch pockets. It bridges casualness with formality. I am now bespeaking a tan DB suit 4x2 with three patch pockets.

 

I came back from Pitt Uomo a few days ago and found out that DB's with patch pockets are represented in almost every new a/w 2012 collection. Glad to see them back. But I do still wonder how clients will respond to DB's.

post #956 of 1365
Hi ,

Can someone please give me some advice and insight into selecting an appropriate button stance on a DB for a young guy.

I am 6 foot with an athletic build, and I am ordering my first DB from a bespoke tailor.

I am going for a 6 on 2, but I want to have an idea of what type of button stance would be most flatting for me.

I have identified 3 main broad options.

1. Low and Close together - Like Prince Charles.

http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?q=prince+charles+suit&um=1&hl=en&biw=1024&bih=662&tbm=isch&tbnid=_wlydVwduPdolM:&imgrefurl=http://www.canenews.com/%3Ftag%3Dprince-charles&docid=D9kLAWIvm738SM&imgurl=http://www.canenews.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/prince-charles3.jpg&w=344&h=600&ei=5y2dT_-vOOSm0AW3kNzkDg&zoom=1&iact=rc&dur=509&sig=107758772880083502332&page=1&tbnh=133&tbnw=76&start=0&ndsp=19&ved=1t:429,r:13,s:0,i:93&tx=63&ty=28

2. High and close together- but with a wider spread on the top 2 buttons- like this guy - this appears to give a sportier look.
http://media-cache3.pinterest.com/upload/57491332713119923_QiOxDCB1.jpg

3. Wider set and bolder- like Matteo and some of the other italian guys seem to wear
http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?q=matteo+marzotto&start=212&um=1&hl=en&sa=N&biw=1024&bih=662&tbm=isch&tbnid=s_n-yFOBzMvTeM:&imgrefurl=http://www.livincool.com/photography/foto-del-giorno-01102009&docid=f1T-P0xathB6IM&imgurl=http://www.livincool.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/matteomarzotto-sartorialist-livincool.com.jpg&w=500&h=751&ei=dC6dT5vuIMOb1AXfjLmHDw&zoom=1&iact=rc&dur=560&sig=107758772880083502332&page=10&tbnh=131&tbnw=95&ndsp=22&ved=1t:429,r:1,s:212,i:58&tx=56&ty=49

I am not sure what is the best way for me to go- I want to appear elegant, but also dynamic - at the very least i think a higher buttoning stance would be more appropriate to my age and build, but I cannot get my head around the amount of wrap i should ask for and the general stance.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks
post #957 of 1365
Quote:
Originally Posted by masterpp View Post

Any advice would be appreciated.

My advice is to listen to your tailor since you seem so uncertain in your taste.
post #958 of 1365
^ that's good advice. there's probably a natural sweet spot for the buttons that will reveal itself once you have the first fitting.

also, is there really a magazine called Cane News? Does Doc Holliday know about this?
post #959 of 1365
I'm a subscriber to the Brolly Bellweather, which offers the latest forecasts for the umbrella industry. This just in: Black canopies still classic, whangees handles are the height of style and James Smith remains the coolest shop in London.
post #960 of 1365
my two cents on the subject......i have avoided DB for the past several years, considering them outdated. however, now that DB style seems to be back in, I tried on a trimmer cut jacket at a store I definitely added to my favorites of all time, Al Bazar. This is the first DB cut/ fit I've ever really liked, even the softer but possibly sloped shoulders seemed really good to me-- I would totally order a grey flannel suit from them in this cut if i could, and probably should have splurged on a tan solid while i was there.

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