Double Breasted Style. - Page 63

Lino Ieluzzi, owner of al bazar

I just do not understand this. In what situation could one arrive at a meeting in a suit without socks and be normal? This might be some fashion situation but I fail to believe that I could take a person seriously for one moment if they wished to negotiate a deal only to have me notice that he waltzed into my office without socks.

Is this some Miami Vice thing?

I'm not talking about suits in worn in a business environment, like the grey one being discussed. I mean casual suits. Made of cotton or linen or some other interesting casual fabric. Worn without a tie, with loafers or moccasins can look great without socks.

This jacket is Cantarelli



Here is the link

It's right for that collar.

I don't actually mean the size of the knot; I mean the way the outer edge of the front blade is curved forwards rather than both sides curving backwards with the dimple centred in the middle. Here is an artistic rendition of the cross-section of the front blade:

Hey, it's sprezz!

My present commission with Xavier Custom Tailors of Toronto, with a navy pinstripe 150s wool from Woodhouse. First 2 px: first fitting. [IMG][/IMG] At this stage, a lot had not been done: sleeves not attached, buttoning point not fixed, sides not taken in, pockets not cut and front darts had not been added. I also noticed at this stage that the front was a wee bit shorter than the back and got it fixed. Also settled on length of jacket. For reference, I am 5ft 6 tall, with a 41" chest and 34" waist.

3 weeks later: [IMG][/IMG] Button holes done, sleeves attached, also happy with buttoning point. Remembered at last minute the jacket should be ventless but I tend to have a big ass.... Plus, from a utility point of view, it means I can sit with the jacket buttoned. Forgot to mention that pants had not been hemmed yet. Final fitting this week. Should have retaken first pic dead on but oh well.

Looks very good, except for the break on the pants. Who is your tailor?

Wonderfull, by the way, that guy on the background looks like Obama .

http://www.yelp.ca/biz/xavier-custom-tailors-toronto The Obama guy is the tailor, Xavier. I'll take more px for the last fitting and hopefully can nail down the final fit. The db commission was his first db in many many years. I used the lessons from this thread and its contributors to guide him. Hopefully will turn out OK.

What's going on with the back of the trousers?

The NYT's T Magazine has a blog post on DBs seen at the Milan runways:
http://tmagazine.blogs.nytimes.com/2012/01/17/coming-soon-double-breasted-suits/?hpw

Most are disasters, although the cut of the middle and stage left Cornelianis is decent.

The post writer, Bruce Pask, does not understand the meaning of the terms "button stance" (he means "button arrangment") and "6-button," (he means "button-three with none to show," or "six buttons with three to button"). Also misspells "morning stripes" as "mourning stripes."
Edited by Testudo_Aubreii - 1/18/12 at 9:14am

You're right about his other two mistakes, but calling it '6-button', although less specific because it doesn't say how many button and how many do not, is still perfectly correct.