^ It shall be a "work in progress!" My maker's standard joking phrase when he fits that area is "I'll send you flowers tomorrow." I guess I'll probably be getting a lot of flowers. Seriously, I make the distinction between a jacket that is part of a suit and an odd jacket. For a jacket that is part of a suit I prefer them relaxed and longer than an odd jacket. Either way, the jacket should cover a man's chunk or moose knuckle. On women, I actually like their suit coats and odd jackets to be shorter - to get a good view of their ass, of course. - M P.S. Just started reading Sex and Suits by Hollander, should be fascinating.
I've now read this entire post, along with anything else I could get my hands on relating to DB suits. I'll post my theories so you can disagree. The DB suit is the ultimate test of a tailor's abilities, whether Bespoke, MTM or OTR. I believe that a good DB should hide one's physical shortcomings (My stooped shoulders), enhance one's physical attributes (my scrawny neck), and present an image to the public that is appropriate for what is intended. (Note:Circus clowns do not wear DB suits). No matter how the suit is purchased, the tailoring makes all the difference in the world. A good tailor can make a mediocre suit look great, and a bad one can ruin bespoke. The important thing is that the wearer looks better in the suit than out of it. We tend to buy because of images, whether on a dummy in a store, in a magazine, on line, or on a prominent person. We rarely look at ourselves in a mirror in an objective way, and then head off to the tailor with specific fitting goals in mind. Do we notice our spare tires, my stooped shoulders, your need for something to slim the skirt and balance the overall shape? If a tailor only does natural or soft shoulder. go elsewhere if yours are stooped & need padding. It should always be about you, the wearer. The only consistent things I find are that the silhouette of the suit should be aesthetically pleasing when on, and that the lapels, regardless of size,should point to the shoulders. Everything else is a balancing act on the wearer. I don't look like Cary Grant, or Adolph Menjou, but I can greatly admire their look in any DB suit. I will not imitate it, because it doesn't flatter me. I wish that more posting members would look at how suits looks on the individual, not whether or not it humours personal style. Now cut my head off.