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Double Breasted Style. - Page 6

post #76 of 1446
Quote:
Originally Posted by yachtie View Post
Who unbuttons their DB?

Well, besides myself...............



BTW, one must keep at least one hand in their trouser pockets to pull it off.
post #77 of 1446
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tomasso View Post
Well, besides myself...............

Me too. Usually not to walk around, but definitely when sitting down.
post #78 of 1446
I prefer SB but do wear DB suits and blazers on occasion:

post #79 of 1446
Quote:
Originally Posted by John Ellis View Post
Now to more serious matters. I'm totally mystified at this aversion to the DB by some posters
Everyone has an aversion to clothes at one level or another. I think it is more about choices. Almost everyone likes clothes. In the t-shirt culture people like quality cottons and appliqué of slogans or designs but then you will also find the guy who defines himself with the Hanes white classic. Reactions to clothes seem to have a mainstream, a connoisseur level and a unique level. No one person embodies any one of these. Some one might be unique in terms of choosing a double breasted suit but very mainstream for ties. When it comes to something like the double breasted, you are talking about attitude, maybe clout. To dress confidently, you have to be confident. There is no requirement to be confident. As a matter of fact, I think no matter what you choose, your state of mind and personality will shine through eventually. I wear double breasted suits because my personality is bold enough that people don't even notice I am wearing one. Additionally, my wardrobe looks like I chose everything and only me. Another man might strike someone as having been dressed by someone else. A friend of mine once asked me to select suits/shirts/ties for him, which i did. But he didn't like my choices. Without thinking about it I was choosing things that suited him. But he wanted the things I wore. So I chose that the things that I would wear for him. The result was a disaster. People were asking me when I had started dressing him, or when did he raid my wardrobe? It had never occurred to me that deeply that standard items could "belong" to someone. No one had ever resented me wearing these clothes but they were too bold for this other guy's mild demeanor. Lesson learned and I wont choose things for people unless they really ask and then only on the forums!
Quote:
Originally Posted by John Ellis
lay out the cash for a dark to mid grey chalk stripe flannel db suit, suitable accessories, and wear it to a party in the fall and watch the double takes as you enter the room. The feeling for the wearer is positively ducal.
Some people don't want this effect. Some men, maybe many, live in apprehension of being looked at. The bottom line for most men, is dressing to gain respect, get people's money, get the approval of his peers and get along with prospective lovers. And though most men don't want to look like slaves to fashion, many want to look fashionable. Somehow, the double breasted is a little too unique for the average American man. I think they appreciate and admire it on others but the vast majority wouldn't wear it. Maybe that is why the single breasted, peak lapel is popular. It has the elegance of the double breasted but hasn't any of the fussy associations. If you think about it, the SBPL is one movement away from becoming a double breasted suit. So men want the elegance but are unwilling to trail blaze. And, even as I say this, I think we are in a very experimental period. One where people are telling the industry what they want rather than the industry telling them what they should wear. that coupled with corporations just happy to see men wearing suits again may herald another double breasted suit era.
post #80 of 1446
Quote:
Originally Posted by Film Noir Buff View Post
Everyone has an aversion to clothes at one level or another. I think it is more about choices. Almost everyone likes clothes. In the t-shirt culture people like quality cottons and appliqué of slogans or designs but then you will also find the guy who defines himself with the Hanes white classic.

Reactions to clothes seem to have a mainstream, a connoisseur level and a unique level. No one person embodies any one of these. Some one might be unique in terms of choosing a double breasted suit but very mainstream for ties.


When it comes to something like the double breasted, you are talking about attitude, maybe clout. To dress confidently, you have to be confident. There is no requirement to be confident. As a matter of fact, I think no matter what you choose, your state of mind and personality will shine through eventually.

I wear double breasted suits because my personality is bold enough that people don't even notice I am wearing one. Additionally, my wardrobe looks like I chose everything and only me. Another man might strike someone as having been dressed by someone else.

A friend of mine once asked me to select suits/shirts/ties for him, which i did. But he didn't like my choices. Without thinking about it I was choosing things that suited him. But he wanted the things I wore. So I chose that the things that I would wear for him. The result was a disaster. People were asking me when I had started dressing him, or when did he raid my wardrobe? It had never occurred to me that deeply that standard items could "belong" to someone. No one had ever resented me wearing these clothes but they were too bold for this other guy's mild demeanor.

Lesson learned and I wont choose things for people unless they really ask and then only on the forums!



Some people don't want this effect. Some men, maybe many, live in apprehension of being looked at.

The bottom line for most men, is dressing to gain respect, get people's money, get the approval of his peers and get along with prospective lovers. And though most men don't want to look like slaves to fashion, many want to look fashionable. Somehow, the double breasted is a little too unique for the average American man. I think they appreciate and admire it on others but the vast majority wouldn't wear it.

Maybe that is why the single breasted, peak lapel is popular. It has the elegance of the double breasted but hasn't any of the fussy associations. If you think about it, the SBPL is one movement away from becoming a double breasted suit. So men want the elegance but are unwilling to trail blaze.

And, even as I say this, I think we are in a very experimental period. One where people are telling the industry what they want rather than the industry telling them what they should wear. that coupled with corporations just happy to see men wearing suits again may herald another double breasted suit era.

Without wanting to get into a lot of pop psychology I think many, probably a majority of, men whatever their style choices, want to look reasonably good for a whole variety of reasons. So if a db makes you feel more sexy, powerful, handsome, elegant, why not. Odd you should suggest the single breasted peaked lapel is a preferred alternative. Based on my observations I'd say it was actually a much more rare sighting in the US than the conventional db and probably has much more fussy connotations. I personally like it and have a couple of jackets in this style but to say it is a substitute for the proper db like saying a sportcoat with patch pockets is a substitute for one with conventional pockets. DB is just an alternative style, looks great if its well cut, awful if it isn't, and is a pleasure to wear. Those who do not wish to partake in the pleasure are free to abstain.
post #81 of 1446
Thread Starter 


post #82 of 1446
Late 1990s Louis, Boston (by Brioni) MTM DB suit in a rope stripe flannel (with the square Roman shoulders that had been their signature for some time, and note the slight belly of the lapel becoming swoopier into the buttoning point.)



I plan to get a mid to light gray Golden Bale flannel DB suit from my tailor in the works when he comes by Boston in about three weeks...should be done around the time that mafoofan's gray flannel DB from Rubinacci will be completed, so we should revive this thread in the fall to compare photographs.

I predict that most of my suits in future will be made as DB.

- B
post #83 of 1446
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tomasso View Post
Well, besides myself...............



BTW, one must keep at least one hand in their trouser pockets to pull it off.

Upon second look with the shirt, tie, and sweater I can only hope he manages to unbutton the jacket. Even on a cool day that could get very warm.
post #84 of 1446
What do you guys think about double vents on a DB? Should I just stick with no vents?
post #85 of 1446
Quote:
Originally Posted by Holdfast View Post
Yeah, I was totally channeling my inner mafiosi that day...
Its Mafios"o" to you, Kid!
post #86 of 1446
OK, I capisce!

To make up for my error, and avoid sleeping with the fishes, a pic of a DB RLPL I sold a while back. Probably the nicest DB I've personally had in my possession:

post #87 of 1446
Quote:
Originally Posted by Holdfast View Post
OK, I capisce!

To make up for my error, and avoid sleeping with the fishes, a pic of a DB RLPL I sold a while back. Probably the nicest DB I've personally had in my possession:


Very nice suit but the cash pocket/ticket pocket spoils the Silhouette imho.
post #88 of 1446
holdfast, really like the shape and fit of this one-- what's the make of this particular suit?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Holdfast View Post
[IMG][/IMG]

On the original post that began this thread, I didn't care for the shape of the lapels on the DB suit, but I def noticed the great looking soft shoulders, a little different for a DB suit but I actually liked it.
post #89 of 1446
Quote:
Originally Posted by John Ellis View Post
Very nice suit but the cash pocket/ticket pocket spoils the Silhouette imho.

I see what you're saying, but I don't feel it myself. Esp. with the low 6x1 buttoning and the slightly keystone buttoning layout, I think the ticket pocket almost balances it a bit.

Then again, as you can see from the suit of mine that Foxx requoted just below your post, I have a DB with a ticket pocket myself, so I guess I'm biased in this regard!

Quote:
Originally Posted by The_Foxx View Post
holdfast, really like the shape and fit of this one-- what's the make of this particular suit?

Thanks - it's Domenico Spano.
post #90 of 1446
Quote:
Originally Posted by yachtie View Post
I really like both of these...who is your tailor because the first one looks too good to be OTR.
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