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Double Breasted Style. - Page 192

post #2866 of 3012
Quote:
Originally Posted by David Reeves View Post


I was actually thinking more new wave 80s with that DB, Its successful in what I want it to be. I am always making things up with different proportions and styling, I like to experiment (but not on my clients), sometimes people like them sometimes they don't, but when you have a "finished style" you keep the same, eventually you become dated and I have always been of the mind that Reeves should be cutting edge. Its a philosophy thats often at odds with the forum which chases "timeless" aesthetics, delves into old timey costume or outright rejects fashion. It can also be at odds with the heritage of the tailoring business, but strip away the theatre and this is a business like any other, it has to be dynamic and relevant and trying new things is part of that.

This blazer is a bit more like the 60s DB you are posting about. I like what you did with the button placements but this just makes the jacket into something else, which is not what I was looking to do.

 

David,as i have write many times i like very much your style (maybe because remember to me the better bespoke of early 60s a age that i love).

You have touched a important point: in past decades bespoke tailors interpreted their age.

Many were classic but not "timeless",and many of them followed ( or created) the trends.

Now,maybe for the high cost of a bespoke suits or for other reasons tailors and customers want a "timeless" style (that for the double breasted seems to be a version of 30s style).

 

Anyway here a 1962 blazer from Milanese tailor Baratta that recall to me your coat.

 

post #2867 of 3012
Quote:
Originally Posted by carpu65 View Post

David,as i have write many times i like very much your style (maybe because remember to me the better bespoke of early 60s a age that i love).
You have touched a important point: in past decades bespoke tailors interpreted their age.
Many were classic but not "timeless",and many of them followed ( or created) the trends.
Now,maybe for the high cost of a bespoke suits or for other reasons tailors and customers want a "timeless" style (that for the double breasted seems to be a version of 30s style).

Anyway here a 1962 blazer from Milanese tailor Baratta that recall to me your coat.



That maybe so, I am really lucky here that I have, or tend to be able to cultivate a clientele that is more daring. I have about a 100 clients at the moment that average 3 pieces a year but some of them have been with me since year one (which was 7 years ago) so that many suits in and they get more experimental themselves. I really like to see this because its truly stylish dressing and you really start to see peoples expression coming through.

I would always aspire to be that tailoring house that makes the trends, its why modern is in the tagline. I think too many people are getting into this business as something they have "discovered" or "rediscovered" (which is maybe why people like historical styles) for me its what I have always done and I have always working at a high level in the business, I started at 19 and I am now 37, aside from working part time in a bar at Uni this is the only career or job I have done. In that time I have seen amazing changes, 5 years ago I would find it shocking to take pictures of clients at fittings, 10 years ago i would never reveal who my clients were under any circumstance, 16 years ago I would have thought it was science fiction that people measure themselves and place orders for suits online.
post #2868 of 3012

post #2869 of 3012


post #2870 of 3012
Very nice
post #2871 of 3012
Quote:
Originally Posted by S K M View Post

That's very interesting! I really find button stance and overlap to be some of the most defining features of a DB. For instance I can always tell a DB made by Steed, because they all feature the (in my opinion) too narrow button stance.

Nice photoshopping btw!



typical A&S
post #2872 of 3012
Quote:
Originally Posted by lordsuperb View Post



typical A&S

Objectively, online posters would tear me a new one if I put a client in that.
post #2873 of 3012





post #2874 of 3012
Quote:
Originally Posted by David Reeves View Post

Objectively, online posters would tear me a new one if I put a client in that.

What are you talking about?
post #2875 of 3012
Quote:
Originally Posted by lordsuperb View Post

What are you talking about?

"No waist suppression #fail brah" then you'd get red lines drawn on it showing pulling on the buttons.....

I think Charles is a fine enough dresser, I really do, but I don't think he's an amazing dresser as people seem to think he is these days.

If that was David Cameron wearing that same outfit would you still like it the same?
post #2876 of 3012
Quote:
Originally Posted by David Reeves View Post


"No waist suppression #fail brah" then you'd get red lines drawn on it showing pulling on the buttons.....

I think Charles is a fine enough dresser, I really do, but I don't think he's an amazing dresser as people seem to think he is these days.

If that was David Cameron wearing that same outfit would you still like it the same?


But in your opinion is that suit a Anderson & Sheppard?

post #2877 of 3012
Quote:
Originally Posted by David Reeves View Post


"No waist suppression #fail brah" then you'd get red lines drawn on it showing pulling on the buttons.....

I think Charles is a fine enough dresser, I really do, but I don't think he's an amazing dresser as people seem to think he is these days.

If that was David Cameron wearing that same outfit would you still like it the same?

I think the average or even expert denizen of Styleforum would take a big pause before opening themselves up for criticism by scrutinizing anything that P. Charles is wearing based on the litany of sacrosanct tailors that are at his service.  There are easier targets to wash in internet vitriol.  But in fairness to the old man, and his tailors the angle and motion of that pic are not exactly flattering.

post #2878 of 3012
Quote:
Originally Posted by carpu65 View Post


But in your opinion is that suit a Anderson & Sheppard?

I would hazard yes, I discussed this before but I think what we are seeing is suits being worn for a long time and being altered to the point were they are beyond an optimal fit. Now I'm going to say he dresses fine and I really mean that it's not backhanded in any way but I think if he got a new suit his tailors could work with his proportions better. Of course he quit A&S after the McQueen fiasco, he gets his new suits MTM from Turnbull I believe.

I'm from Generation X it doesn't seem so long ago that prince Charles would be the height of uncool I'm just not buying into this narrative pushed by writers and bloggers over recent years that he's an awesome dresser. Another reason I don't think he's particularly remarkable as a dresser is because I've been dressing people like that for 17 years! It's not that I don't like it, it just doesn't look anything special to me and in his case it probably shouldn't IMO.

Now I am aware if you are judging him from a different perspective you could be seeing something else but for me it's pretty much by the numbers English style.
post #2879 of 3012
I don't know how much new stuff Charles is buying, but John Hitchcock of A&S still has (or has again) a Royal Warrant. Mr Hitchcock and Malcolm Plews often share a car when they have to go see the Prince about one thing or another.

He does get a lot of miles out of his clothes, however. Apparently, he has three valets-- at 8-hour shifts, that's literally 24/7 coverage for cleaning, pressing, repairing, etc.

Also, the McQueen thing needs some careful looking at. There is a decent risk that he spread the story himself.
post #2880 of 3012
Quote:
Originally Posted by David Reeves View Post


"No waist suppression #fail brah" then you'd get red lines drawn on it showing pulling on the buttons.....

I think Charles is a fine enough dresser, I really do, but I don't think he's an amazing dresser as people seem to think he is these days.

If that was David Cameron wearing that same outfit would you still like it the same?

Agreed fully. I don't think he's a bad dresser by any means, but this idea that he's the epitome of class and style (at least as pertains to clothes) is one I find fascinating.

 

Though, to be fair, the lionizing of public figures for rather ordinary feats is not exactly a new phenomenon.

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