or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Double Breasted Style.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Double Breasted Style. - Page 159

post #2371 of 3013
Quote:
Originally Posted by justonemore View Post
 


Well.... I'm just taking my 8 year old for the experience (she was just accepted to study at the conservatory here in Lausanne)...Sophia Coppola is directing it so who knows what to expect anyways...I doubt any mention of buying a tux would be appreciated by my wife...So I think my options are pretty much between a DB or SB suit...Going off the whole "no navy after dark" thing, and leaving out light grey as too informal...That pretty much leaves me with charcoal...right? So the question is....Can I get away with playing around a bit with a charcoal windowpane DB (perhaps even with some vintage rioja G&Gs) or should I go with a solid charcoal SB and black cap-toes?

 

BTW...Where were your seats? decent view and sound?

Wonderful about your daughter. Classical music was the source of many happy memories for me as I am sure it will be for her. 

 

I would go with the DB if you do not own a black tie outfit. I always smile when I see people in a well fitting DB suit, especially in the evening. So few people wear them these days that it feels like someone put in a bit of thought in what they'd wear on the night. I couldn't see the windowpane until you pointed it out, so it's clearly subtle enough to be a go. 

 

Charcoal was the colour of business during the Industrial Revolution, distinguishing capitalists who worked for a living from the idle gentry, but I think that distinction has been lost in the many decades since (after all, nobody wears tails to the opera anymore). Navy looks fine in the evening, as demonstrated by this photo of Prince Charles receiving Emperor Akihito where both wear it:

 

(from: http://www.nomanwalksalone.com/index.php/news/index/view/id/889/)

post #2372 of 3013
Quote:
Originally Posted by justonemore View Post


Well.... I'm just taking my 8 year old for the experience (she was just accepted to study at the conservatory here in Lausanne)...Sophia Coppola is directing it so who knows what to expect anyways...I doubt any mention of buying a tux would be appreciated by my wife...So I think my options are pretty much between a DB or SB suit...Going off the whole "no navy after dark" thing, and leaving out light grey as too informal...That pretty much leaves me with charcoal...right? So the question is....Can I get away with playing around a bit with a charcoal windowpane DB (perhaps even with some vintage rioja G&Gs) or should I go with a solid charcoal SB and black cap-toes?

BTW...Where were your seats? decent view and sound?
second floor, box right next to the centre box - view and sound were decent, no worries.
i'd go DB btw!

enjoy!
post #2373 of 3013
Quote:
Originally Posted by lordsuperb View Post




Very nice but I think you can see here the effects of owning a suit for a long time and having it altered within its constraints. The jacket looks too short and the shoulder to narrow as the waist is rather large, I imaging this suit was a lot more nipped in and proportional when new. For a new one for him I'd add an extra 3/4' onto the length which will slim him down moorland give a touch more in the shoulder and sleeves.
post #2374 of 3013

Whoa, that Japan's Emperor had some impeccable double breasted suits throughout the history .. Wondering who's the tailor .. 

 

 

 

 

 

post #2375 of 3013
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nikola View Post

Whoa, that Japan's Emperor had some impeccable double breasted suits throughout the history .. Wondering who's the tailor .. 


















That button placement looks very Huntsman.
post #2376 of 3013

Now that you suggested it does seem like a Huntsman work .. Though one would think a proud Japanese got their own tailors to promote .. 

post #2377 of 3013
It doesn't look like Huntsman to me, particularly in the chest, which I always think is the most recognizable feature of a Huntsman jackets. Also, Huntsman puts key holes in both lapels in a double-breasted and flares the skirt. And I'm sure they would do a 4-button DB but it isn't their standard. I suppose it could be, but it doesn't jump out to me as Huntsman.
post #2378 of 3013
Quote:
Originally Posted by agjiffy View Post

It doesn't look like Huntsman to me, particularly in the chest, which I always think is the most recognizable feature of a Huntsman jackets. Also, Huntsman puts key holes in both lapels in a double-breasted and flares the skirt. And I'm sure they would do a 4-button DB but it isn't their standard. I suppose it could be, but it doesn't jump out to me as Huntsman.

How do you get rid of the skirt flare?!?!

frown.gif
post #2379 of 3013
Quote:
Originally Posted by David Reeves View Post

Very nice but I think you can see here the effects of owning a suit for a long time and having it altered within its constraints. The jacket looks too short and the shoulder to narrow as the waist is rather large, I imaging this suit was a lot more nipped in and proportional when new. For a new one for him I'd add an extra 3/4' onto the length which will slim him down moorland give a touch more in the shoulder and sleeves.

This is all preference. The suit looks fine to me. If you must know Steed makes their shoulders narrow like Prince Charles' suit.
post #2380 of 3013
I don't love a flared skirt either. Ordered one and never ordered another. I assume that you can ask to eliminate it, but I think it's the default. At least it was for me.
post #2381 of 3013
Quote:
Originally Posted by agjiffy View Post

I don't love it either. Ordered one and never ordered another. I assume that you can ask to eliminate it, but I think it's the default. At least it was for me.

Yeah my english tailor built it in two of my jackets. He took them out but you can still see it in one of them frown.gif.
post #2382 of 3013
Quote:
Originally Posted by lordsuperb View Post


Yeah my english tailor built it in two of my jackets. He took them out but you can still see it in one of them frown.gif.

I've found the most effective way to deal with English tailors is to dump them in favor of French ones. And then your suits will fit.
post #2383 of 3013
Quote:
Originally Posted by David Reeves View Post

Very nice but I think you can see here the effects of owning a suit for a long time and having it altered within its constraints. The jacket looks too short and the shoulder to narrow as the waist is rather large, I imaging this suit was a lot more nipped in and proportional when new. For a new one for him I'd add an extra 3/4' onto the length which will slim him down moorland give a touch more in the shoulder and sleeves.
So you think this fit him when he was slimmer and turned into a poncho as his waist grew?
post #2384 of 3013
Quote:
Originally Posted by agjiffy View Post

I've found the most effective way to deal with English tailors is to dump them in favor of French ones. And then your suits will fit.

lol I don't have that kind of access. I think I will just stay with what works for me --> Paul Stuart and Formosa.
post #2385 of 3013
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nikola View Post
 

Now that you suggested it does seem like a Huntsman work .. Though one would think a proud Japanese got their own tailors to promote .. 

As per this post: http://www.styleforum.net/t/356395/hollandes-and-akihitos-suits-a-comparison#post_6503220

 

It is indeed a Japanese tailor:

Quote:
Kinn Tailors, headed by Hattori Susumu. Their website is here: http://www.kinn-tailor.com/index.html 
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Classic Menswear
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Double Breasted Style.