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Double Breasted Style. - Page 144

post #2146 of 3014
Quote:
Originally Posted by Winot View Post

Simon has very sloped shoulders. IMO, his Edward Sexton DB suits him better than the AS cut:



Details here:
http://www.permanentstyle.co.uk/2015/06/edward-sexton-grey-flannel-suit.html

 

That trouser is simply bad and disproportioned but the sleeves are simply a tailoring crime!!! Poor as his blog and his articles! Please stop ruining this thread with his ugly pics, just ate my breakfast and won´t like to vomit.:uhoh: 

 

I can´t believe anyone take him seriously. Worst dresser ever and big “ expert” impersonator. He knows less about this than the poor he looks.

 

Me and the tailoring serious and honest people anywhere, those who never paid or would pay for a fake review would appreciate if any link to him or similar is posted as it enrichens him out of fake articles and poor garments. Thank you.:fistbump:


Edited by SartodiNapoli - 11/4/15 at 11:21pm
post #2147 of 3014
🙄
post #2148 of 3014
Quote:
Originally Posted by lordsuperb View Post

Why?
Quote:
Originally Posted by SartodiNapoli View Post

Is this Simon Cromptom?
Why he always looks bad, nerdy and ridiculous and his attires are all unprofessionally fitted?
His low gorge  look pretty bad on him ( as always he commisions/shills)
On the contrary, the jacket on the manekin is top.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SartodiNapoli View Post

People says I never post good examples, but is simply because nowadays I hardly see a good example but all the contrary. Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Here I found this great example of a Japanese tailor.

I will say his checked A&S jacket managed to highlight almost all his ill-proportioned body shape.

The high jacket cut, couple with the shoulder treatment makes his shoulder-line too sloped.

The jacket length is probably (to my taste) too short for him thus making his chest too bulked.

The collar piece is also too wide (and possibly too long) thus also highlighting his shoulder line in a bad way.

Overall, I think A&S cut a soft jacket but should also adopt features of soft jackets (lower collars, straighter lapels). What they did was a bad example of a hybrid Italian - savile row cut, which is neither here nor there.

I also agree Sexton's suits looks better on him.
post #2149 of 3014
Quote:
Originally Posted by add911_11 View Post



I will say his checked A&S jacket managed to highlight almost all his ill-proportioned body shape.

The high jacket cut, couple with the shoulder treatment makes his shoulder-line too sloped.

The jacket length is probably (to my taste) too short for him thus making his chest too bulked.

The collar piece is also too wide (and possibly too long) thus also highlighting his shoulder line in a bad way.

Overall, I think A&S cut a soft jacket but should also adopt features of soft jackets (lower collars, straighter lapels). What they did was a bad example of a hybrid Italian - savile row cut, which is neither here nor there.

I also agree Sexton's suits looks better on him.

I think his A&S do him justice, and would be happy to wear suits with this type of turnout:




post #2150 of 3014
Speaking of A&S



post #2151 of 3014
Quote:
Originally Posted by add911_11 View Post



I will say his checked A&S jacket managed to highlight almost all his ill-proportioned body shape.

The high jacket cut, couple with the shoulder treatment makes his shoulder-line too sloped.

The jacket length is probably (to my taste) too short for him thus making his chest too bulked.

The collar piece is also too wide (and possibly too long) thus also highlighting his shoulder line in a bad way.

I'm genuinely confused by the various negative comments about the way his suits fit/his physique.

He looks to have a very generic normal/slim guy's build.... What exactly is it people are expecting a suit should do for him?

I'm no tailor but we all surely know even the best / most expensive tailor in the world cannot make you into superman if you don't have that physique! Nor can they 'disguise' a huge belly or make a skinny, shorter guy look like a towering Charles Atlas whatever people may believe.

In simplistic terms, I'd say if your physique is a 6/10, maybe a good suit can make your physique a 7/10. But if people are expecting themselves (or others) to gain 4 points and magically become a GQ model just because he is using an expensive SR tailor, they are only deluding themselves as to what is possible here.
post #2152 of 3014
Quote:
Originally Posted by jedwards View Post

I'm genuinely confused by the various negative comments about the way his suits fit/his physique.

He looks to have a very generic normal/slim guy's build.... What exactly is it people are expecting a suit should do for him?

I'm no tailor but we all surely know even the best / most expensive tailor in the world cannot make you into superman if you don't have that physique! Nor can they 'disguise' a huge belly or make a skinny, shorter guy look like a towering Charles Atlas whatever people may believe.

In simplistic terms, I'd say if your physique is a 6/10, maybe a good suit can make your physique a 7/10. But if people are expecting themselves (or others) to gain 4 points and magically become a GQ model just because he is using an expensive SR tailor, they are only deluding themselves as to what is possible here.

You have the right idea here. I would say broadly that there are certain tailoring techniques and jacket cuts that are more likely to flatter someone with a particular build. Of course, you also have to personally like and feel comfortable in the jacket yourself. So some people elect to do things that may not quite be gospel according to tailoring best practices but that align with their tastes. Extreme examples would be someone who would look best in a soft Neopolitan jacket choosing Huntsman as a tailor or vice versa. The "wrong" cut will correct fewer flaws and certain features are less optimal for certain body types. A well known example here would be @mafoofan, who as a shorter man (I believe 5ft4 or so) chooses to wear trousers with 2 inch cuffs. From what I've read, he's decided that he likes big cuffs and would rather wear something he likes than maybe give the optical illusion of looking half an inch taller. Crompton has extremely sloped shoulders and chooses not to correct for them.

It's great if your ideal cut for your body aligns with your taste, but if not you are in a position of choosing to add 0.5 or so out of 10 to how you look in a cut you are less fond of or choosing a less ideal cut that doesn't add a little bit of extra benefit. I tend to think that good tailoring adds a bit and flatters one's body and that the ideal cut is sort of gravy on top of this. Good tailoring can exist and help regardless of cut.
post #2153 of 3014
Quote:
Originally Posted by archibaldleach View Post

You have the right idea here. I would say broadly that there are certain tailoring techniques and jacket cuts that are more likely to flatter someone with a particular build. Of course, you also have to personally like and feel comfortable in the jacket yourself. So some people elect to do things that may not quite be gospel according to tailoring best practices but that align with their tastes. Extreme examples would be someone who would look best in a soft Neopolitan jacket choosing Huntsman as a tailor or vice versa. The "wrong" cut will correct fewer flaws and certain features are less optimal for certain body types. A well known example here would be @mafoofan, who as a shorter man (I believe 5ft4 or so) chooses to wear trousers with 2 inch cuffs. From what I've read, he's decided that he likes big cuffs and would rather wear something he likes than maybe give the optical illusion of looking half an inch taller. Crompton has extremely sloped shoulders and chooses not to correct for them.

It's great if your ideal cut for your body aligns with your taste, but if not you are in a position of choosing to add 0.5 or so out of 10 to how you look in a cut you are less fond of or choosing a less ideal cut that doesn't add a little bit of extra benefit. I tend to think that good tailoring adds a bit and flatters one's body and that the ideal cut is sort of gravy on top of this. Good tailoring can exist and help regardless of cut.

Which type of cut would've flattered (so to speak) his sloped shoulders?
post #2154 of 3014
Quote:
Originally Posted by SartodiNapoli View Post

That trouser is simply bad and disproportioned but the sleeves are simply a tailoring crime!!! Poor as his blog and his articles! Please stop ruining this thread with his ugly pics, just ate my breakfast and won´t like to vomit.uhoh.gif  

I can´t believe anyone take him seriously. Worst dresser ever and big “ expert” impersonator. He knows less about this than the poor he looks.

Me and the tailoring serious and honest people anywhere, those who never paid or would pay for a fake review would appreciate if any link to him or similar is posted as it enrichens him out of fake articles and poor garments. Thank you.fistbump.gif
r

Jesus, relax. What's so horrible with the pants and the sleeves?
post #2155 of 3014
Quote:
Originally Posted by taxgenius View Post

Which type of cut would've flattered (so to speak) his sloped shoulders?

I'd think a slightly more built up shoulder would have made his sloped shoulders less obvious. That said, it's his choice whether he wants to compensate by doing that and he chose not to. I'm just observing that he chooses not to compensate for sloped shoulders, not criticizing.
post #2156 of 3014
Quote:
Originally Posted by jedwards View Post

I'm genuinely confused by the various negative comments about the way his suits fit/his physique.
He looks to have a very generic normal/slim guy's build.... What exactly is it people are expecting a suit should do for him?
I'm no tailor but we all surely know even the best / most expensive tailor in the world cannot make you into superman if you don't have that physique! Nor can they 'disguise' a huge belly or make a skinny, shorter guy look like a towering Charles Atlas whatever people may believe.
In simplistic terms, I'd say if your physique is a 6/10, maybe a good suit can make your physique a 7/10. But if people are expecting themselves (or others) to gain 4 points and magically become a GQ model just because he is using an expensive SR tailor, they are only deluding themselves as to what is possible here.
Quote:
Originally Posted by lordsuperb View Post

I think his A&S do him justice, and would be happy to wear suits with this type of turnout: Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)




I just tried to write something very length but I decided to keep it more simple.

Mr.C sough to make an internet-approved bespoke garments, not something that necessary look nice on him.

Again, that charcoal grey DB by A&S facepalm.gif
post #2157 of 3014
Quote:
Originally Posted by the north View Post


r

Jesus, relax. What's so horrible with the pants and the sleeves?

 

I can´t stand people idolatrices that Simon who has any idea about this but intoxicating the industry me and 99% of honest people are.  99% of bloggers are clueless histrionics who just want to have fast cash out of peackoking or shilling with ridiculous and fakes articles, per example Parisian ungentleman who had not the gutts to publish my answer as proper shirtmaker, to the fails on his article about what a good shirt has to have. Last buttonhole horizontal makes a bad shirt good? He said so.  This people intoxicates the industry.

 

Trousers look overall pretty bad, got extra fabric all around and not a clean cut. See as the box and legs do not have the same proportion, is like a chop

from two trousers into one. Pretty amateur and bad for such a “ good” tailor.  Anyway I have never seen this person properly dressed but all the time looks disguised on other people carnival cloths.

 

Sleeves got wrong extra diameter all around, specially on the middle that makes them look bad, unnatural,unpro  wrinkled and twisted.; In fact quite similar to the poor Madrid tailoring.

 

 

As Archibal says, everything on Simon looks bad mainly because he has any idea about dressing, simply rates the tailors based on how much he was paid or freebies got as well as having ridiculous tacky clowny features( that you won´t ever seen on real elegant  directive task promen of the history) and fabrics chosen. You all can read it all over and over.

 

I didn´t read that article, but I am pretty sure he rated the jacket as “ almost British old school perfection, barely impossible to make nowadays but from a few hands as this supertailor that I am very proud to introduce you”. The stitching is perfect, so the pattern matching, so the silhoutte, the trouser is a masterwork that I fits as a glove ( a glove 2 sizes more, ok) and the sleeves look a perfect cilinder with any wrinkle( oh)  this is my most recommended tailor ( until next month he writes the exact same for the next one)

 

Am I wrong?

 

Hard to see this bad things on Neapolitan tailoring unless from a very bad tailor. Sadly there are a few as we all know.

 

About  A & S, is pretty sad to see how has degenerated that was on the  late Alfred Hitchock times, simply the best tailoring house around, based on those real masterworks from his films.  Pretty sad for me. 

 

 

Picture; note the sleeve on the left on James Stewart is not clean,( as on Simon) but  while on the right actor   hangs perfectly clean.         hangs perfectly clean.  

CREATOR: gd-jpeg v1.0 (using IJG JPEG v62), quality = 92

 

The same low gorge lapels as shown before, but here looks awesome, on the priors as Simon looks simply clownish. Even on the grey one look ok for the other gent but notice on the slight fail,  the shirt cuff is not seen and the shirt collar is too tall for nowadays. Is he a forum member or an   A & S model?

 

As Jedwards pointed out, some people believes spending a real fortune on a well know tailor will turn any Clark Kent into Superman, as people believes having a Ferrari will turn you into a Ron Jeremy pornstar like with a rate of woman sucses as he on the 80s.:D But let´s face it, are elegant born people and others not. Simon is from the second and forever will be.

 

Well, good tailors worked on Alfred Hitchcok most of the times, but that was when good tailors were around...

 


Edited by SartodiNapoli - 11/5/15 at 7:36pm
post #2158 of 3014
A gentleman continously on most best dressed list, has very sloped shoulders, and has his DB suits allmost exclusively made by A&S and an expatriate - and seems to be content with the execution (including the fullness in the sleeves that plays a vital role in the comfort and fit of the "soft" tailoring these houses represent which may be considered an aquired taste) - Yes The Prince of Wales!

Here is a shot of Steven Hitchcock at his master class at The Royal Theater in Copenhagen, explaining how he cut POW's dinner jacket bigstar[1].gif








Photo: The Journal of Style
post #2159 of 3014
Quote:
Originally Posted by Butler View Post

A gentleman continously on most best dressed list, has very sloped shoulders, and has his DB suits allmost exclusively made by A&S and an expatriate - and seems to be content with the execution (including the fullness in the sleeves that plays a vital role in the comfort and fit of the "soft" tailoring these houses represent which may be considered an aquired taste) - Yes The Prince of Wales!

Here is a shot of Steven Hitchcock at his master class at The Royal Theater in Copenhagen, explaining how he cut POW's dinner jacket

Photo: The Journal of Style

Meh. I'm not a fan of prince Charles suits. I know it's a taste thing but I just think he would look better with a little more militaristic look. More shoulder. He doesn't have to go huntsman. But maybe Poole or Kilgore. I just don't think he dresses to his body type well.
post #2160 of 3014
Quote:
Originally Posted by Butler View Post

A gentleman continously on most best dressed list, has very sloped shoulders, and has his DB suits allmost exclusively made by A&S and an expatriate - and seems to be content with the execution (including the fullness in the sleeves that plays a vital role in the comfort and fit of the "soft" tailoring these houses represent which may be considered an aquired taste) - Yes The Prince of Wales!

One can definitely look good in a well tailored suit, even if the cut is not ideal for one's body or if it is not designed to minimize certain features. This is why I'll point out cases where other cuts or adjustments might look better but generally won't tell someone to do anything more than see how a different cut looks on them. The Prince looks good in his A&S DBs. This is at least in part a reflection on A&S. He could look better in another cut, but if he personally likes A&S, it's totally valid for him to wear A&S.
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