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Double Breasted Style. - Page 96

post #1426 of 1606
I like it a lot @MZhammer
post #1427 of 1606

First fitting of the burgundy DB jacket I talked about earlier:

 

 

 

 

Asked to have the lapel wider (as pinned on the left one) and button stance made slightly wider and lower (chalk marks), gorge lower. Thoughts?

post #1428 of 1606
The back looks real messy, Isolation.
post #1429 of 1606

Yeah literally all the suits I wear start like that first fitting. It'll hopefully be fixed by the end. :S Don't know what's wrong, haven't been able to find a tailor that completely fixes it, I wonder if it's the high drop?

post #1430 of 1606
See!? I told you it would be great!

The back issues stem from the shoulders, yeh?
post #1431 of 1606

I believe so, every tailor I've worked with has had some trouble with it. I also think my stance, quite erect, makes it hard, especially as I like waist suppression. I think it looks okay from the front at least.

 

I think the color looks just fine, fwiw. Don't regret that part really.

post #1432 of 1606
Still a good tailor should get it right. Color looks cool, tho.
post #1433 of 1606

Shoulders are way too wide and not sloped enough. Back is too long. It is falling down off the backs of your shoulders (thus the pinning) and the whole back balance is contacting your hips. It is typical of the erect posture to have this happen. I fix this all the time....with MTM.

post #1434 of 1606

Subscribed!

post #1435 of 1606

Hi, can I have some opinions specifically on the lapels and roping please? What do you think of the width and shape/angle? How can I get it to be more angled as opposed to horizontal? Lower gorge?

 

post #1436 of 1606
Quote:
Originally Posted by Isolation View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Hi, can I have some opinions specifically on the lapels and roping please? What do you think of the width and shape/angle? How can I get it to be more angled as opposed to horizontal? Lower gorge?




I would worry more about that buckling right above the button. It probably has something to do with your dropped shoulder, so it might be kind of inevitable in some respects, but I would ask if that's something that can be improved.
post #1437 of 1606

Thanks. I'll have a look at it. I am hoping it's because the button hasn't been set in properly and it wasn't pinned perfectly. If I recall correctly the tailor did take in length from below the armhole so it should match up okay at the quarters.

post #1438 of 1606
You're talking about the next jacket, right? Because this one is almost completely baked. Doesn't look at all bad, BTW, even if one might prefer small changes of the kind you're talking about.
post #1439 of 1606

Yeah yeah, I'm pretty happy with it as it is. I might get more from this tailor in the future as I enjoy working with him and price is reasonable, so I want to see if there are changes I should look out for in the future as these two were my first db jacket with him. Just wanted to get them made before I leave HK, don't get that many chances after all.

post #1440 of 1606
Quote:
Originally Posted by Isolation View Post

Yeah yeah, I'm pretty happy with it as it is. I might get more from this tailor in the future as I enjoy working with him and price is reasonable, so I want to see if there are changes I should look out for in the future as these two were my first db jacket with him. Just wanted to get them made before I leave HK, don't get that many chances after all.

It might be just me, or the fact that I'm looking at a still photo instead of a moving person, but I think the horizontal line of the lapels accentuates your dropped shoulder. Especially combined with the horizontal line of the skirt on a DB jacket.
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