or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Double Breasted Style.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Double Breasted Style. - Page 85

post #1261 of 1413
Quote:
Originally Posted by kashmir View Post

^why? because the lapels are too big?

The first one is a bit tricky, so let's begin with that. The reason why I don't think it works is that the distance between the middle and upper row of buttons appears too short in relation to the distance between the middle and lower row. The wearer's posture might make this problem look worse than it is, but I don't believe a more relaxed posture would eliminate it. The solution I would suggest is to lower the two bottom rows until the middle row is roughly equidistant from the two others (thereby also lowering the closure of the jacket, which would have the added benefit of making the wearer look less stuffy). (I should mention that one of the resident tailors on here -- I forget whom -- once wrote that the standard practice is actually to make the distance between the middle and upper row ever so slightly longer than the distance between the middle and lower row.) The problem is that this operation would necessitate the jacket being completely recut, which is ... a bit of a hassle. I therefore would just remove the upper row of buttons, which would not be ideal, but still better than the jacket's current look.

The second one I've dabbled with in Photoshop:



In my opinion, the only jackets that look better as 6x1s than 4x1s are ones where the overlap (or "wrap") is very slight. This is not one such jacket, however, and worse, the upper row seems awkwardly placed (but it's a bit hard to tell since there's a lot of pulling going on). Eagle-eyed readers will notice that I took the liberty to move the middle button row on the diagonal. It could be left as is, but I think this look is more pleasing on the eye.
post #1262 of 1413
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivar View Post


The first one is a bit tricky, so let's begin with that. The reason why I don't think it works is that the distance between the middle and upper row of buttons appears too short in relation to the distance between the middle and lower row. The wearer's posture might make this problem look worse than it is, but I don't believe a more relaxed posture would eliminate it. The solution I would suggest is to lower the two bottom rows until the middle row is roughly equidistant from the two others (thereby also lowering the closure of the jacket, which would have the added benefit of making the wearer look less stuffy). (I should mention that one of the resident tailors on here -- I forget whom -- once wrote that the standard practice is actually to make the distance between the middle and upper row ever so slightly longer than the distance between the middle and lower row.) The problem is that this operation would necessitate the jacket being completely recut, which is ... a bit of a hassle. I therefore would just remove the upper row of buttons, which would not be ideal, but still better than the jacket's current look.

The second one I've dabbled with in Photoshop:



In my opinion, the only jackets that look better as 6x1s than 4x1s are ones where the overlap (or "wrap") is very slight. This is not one such jacket, however, and worse, the upper row seems awkwardly placed (but it's a bit hard to tell since there's a lot of pulling going on). Eagle-eyed readers will notice that I took the liberty to move the middle button row on the diagonal. It could be left as is, but I think this look is more pleasing on the eye.

I agree. eyes for your edit is very pleasant. A 4x1 to me like a lot more. Of course, the wearer is not the best.

post #1263 of 1413
I quite like it because it's a bit jaunty. Like a gorgeous girl with slightly crooked teeth. Think it's got some character.
post #1264 of 1413
.....for the record my wife does not have crooked teeth.
post #1265 of 1413

 

you look so elegant ... for me those years are the years when you created the elegant classic we all know and wear with slight modifications.

And above all pairings are double-breasted and dream.

post #1266 of 1413
Quote:
Originally Posted by David Reeves View Post

Im not surprised by this. A lot of the time people ask me just what the difference is between a high end Bespoke and one that is less so. I can talk about things like labor time and handwork but people just don't really get this, the real difference is the finesse which is again hard to explain. I think someone just needs to experience the difference.

Have to agreed with you David. I have a few suits made by WW Chan and Gordon Yao and they are great, fits perfectly and the workmanships is fantastic. I do feel something is missing compare to the suits that has been made by my old Italian tailors and my other tailor who used to worked for Huntsman. The Hong Kong suits almost feels two dimensional. There are less iron work used to shape the chest for instance. You are correct is hard to explained but once you put on the garments you'll know which suits you'll want to wear more often.
post #1267 of 1413
one of my summer, mostly unlined, linen dbs

*

-
post #1268 of 1413
Quote:
Originally Posted by oscarthewild View Post

one of my summer, mostly unlined, linen dbs

*

-

You are quite the dandy!
post #1269 of 1413
Quote:
Originally Posted by oscarthewild View Post

one of my summer, mostly unlined, linen dbs

*

-

most people here now probably have no idea who you are and have no idea just how conservative this outfit is compared to your other stuff. That is a nice DB but you love those crazy colors.
post #1270 of 1413


This has been on my form for a few days. The button placement is a bit on the wider side.
post #1271 of 1413
Quote:
Originally Posted by David Reeves View Post



This has been on my form for a few days. The button placement is a bit on the wider side.

beautiful proportions and beautiful ... congratulations
post #1272 of 1413
thought this one was cool/ like the cut and soft shoulders, lower patch

http://www.yoox.com/us/41403373SL/item?dept=men#sts=sr_men80&cod10=41403373SL&sizeId=4

post #1273 of 1413
Quote:
Originally Posted by The_Foxx View Post

thought this one was cool/ like the cut and soft shoulders, lower patch

http://www.yoox.com/us/41403373SL/item?dept=men#sts=sr_men80&cod10=41403373SL&sizeId=4

spectacular ... exudes a unique softness....I really like the color

post #1274 of 1413
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gianni Cerutti View Post
 

look at this double-breasted ... how does it look?

 

 

 

http://www.styleforum.net/t/364005/passaggio-cravatte-official-affiliate-thread/45#post_6641347

 

http://monsieurbespoke.blogspot.it/ - www.passaggiocravatte.com

 

Pirozzi is a great tailor,but in this suit the lapels are too much wide ,and the button placement is excessively large.

Nothing of wrong,but is not my style; is more 70s that 30s anyway.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by David Reeves View Post



I fashion mine a bit a bit military, the fairly narrow lapel, high waist and button placement is reminiscent of a Royal Navy officers uniform. It's a kind of style Savile Row military tailors do a lot and it's often worn by former RN officers. Of course I can make up with a wider lapel but this is how I like my own DBs generally.

 

I love the style.

Lapels are too much narrow in my opinion,but i love the clean silhouette,the "military air",the slender button placement and the high waist.

 

 

My favourite style in double breasted is this:

This is a British double breasted of 1936:

 

 

This is a DB of Panico (another great Neapolitan tailor):

 

And this is a DB of Liverano (the famous Florentine tailor):


Clean and proportionate,nothing of bold or excessive.

post #1275 of 1413
The Roped shoulders of the Reeves (picture #2) ruin the jacket for me.I much prefer the 1936 version in the next picture.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Classic Menswear
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Double Breasted Style.