or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Double Breasted Style.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Double Breasted Style. - Page 74

post #1096 of 1521
Quote:
Originally Posted by Concordia View Post

Well, part of DB is having confidence in what you have to say. These could be a bit trimmer but I wouldn't change the basic look.

One odd thing about Chan is that while they do very elegant large-bellied "swooping" peak lapels for SB jackets (morning coats and the like), they refuse to do the same for DB, as A&S do. For them, the notch must properly be nearly horizontal. I asked them to copy an old A&S suit of mine and while it came out very well in most respects, it had a completely different lapel line. When I tried to negotiate different for suit #2, they firmly said no.

Concordia -- Do they do a good job 'copying' your A & S? Any noticable difference in fit?
post #1097 of 1521
It won't be confused with the original. They measured that suit within an inch of its life (they've obviously taken on this kind of project before), but made a few aesthetic changes. The notches, as I said, and the contour of the lapel. (That's their call-- I didn't meet them at the Armoury.)

At the first fitting, they tried to put in a lot of shoulder padding. I persuaded them to take out half of it and it still looks noticeably crisper than elderly A&S. Also, they were reluctant to move the armholes too tight. They did make the jacket a bit longer as well, and trimmed up the trouser legs (which might have needed it anyway).

The result doesn't look especially A&S-like, and unlike the drape suit doesn't grab me under the arms. Rather, it floats on my shoulders. While I suspect they don't do the A&S Secret Sauce on the canvas, their preference for much lighter construction makes it very comfortable on the chest. Oddly enough, it actually fits me better than their first SB jacket. The armscyes aren't nearly as tight as I like them but the structure of the jacket holds them right where they should be in relation to my shoulders, so there's plenty of freedom to move. (Normally, I have found that tailors are more apt to screw up a DB than a SB early on, as there is less flexibility to adapt to a bad cut.)

So-- all in all, a good suit, with prospects of even better ones to follow. But if I want A&S, I'll have to call London.
post #1098 of 1521
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley View Post

How can you deduce that he is 'always uncomfortable' in his suits? The coat is certainly not tight - pulling at the buttoning point would be the dead giveaway. What you're probably referring to is the taper at the waist, a stylistic choice that most Savile Row tailors adhere too as well. Looks great.

I won't comment on your expert assumption on Italian tailors.

I guess you have never seen the back of Alan's suit, since you don't live in Hong Kong.
Italian seems to have poor taste on DB lapels, just saying.
post #1099 of 1521
Quote:
Originally Posted by Concordia View Post

It won't be confused with the original. They measured that suit within an inch of its life (they've obviously taken on this kind of project before), but made a few aesthetic changes. The notches, as I said, and the contour of the lapel. (That's their call-- I didn't meet them at the Armoury.)

At the first fitting, they tried to put in a lot of shoulder padding. I persuaded them to take out half of it and it still looks noticeably crisper than elderly A&S. Also, they were reluctant to move the armholes too tight. They did make the jacket a bit longer as well, and trimmed up the trouser legs (which might have needed it anyway).

The result doesn't look especially A&S-like, and unlike the drape suit doesn't grab me under the arms. Rather, it floats on my shoulders. While I suspect they don't do the A&S Secret Sauce on the canvas, their preference for much lighter construction makes it very comfortable on the chest. Oddly enough, it actually fits me better than their first SB jacket. The armscyes aren't nearly as tight as I like them but the structure of the jacket holds them right where they should be in relation to my shoulders, so there's plenty of freedom to move. (Normally, I have found that tailors are more apt to screw up a DB than a SB early on, as there is less flexibility to adapt to a bad cut.)

So-- all in all, a good suit, with prospects of even better ones to follow. But if I want A&S, I'll have to call London.

Great. Do you mean lapels like this?

post #1100 of 1521
Quote:
Originally Posted by bboysdontcryy View Post

Great. Do you mean lapels like this?


The button position looks bad.
post #1101 of 1521
But the lapels are awesome. Notice, also, that the lapels have been ironed to follow the curve of the lapel so the chalk stripes aren't cut off on the bottom.
post #1102 of 1521
Mine have a higher crossover, but the basic shape is the same.
post #1103 of 1521
.....
Edited by tchoy - 1/18/13 at 11:49pm
post #1104 of 1521
Ooh, nice I do like that. Nice drape.
post #1105 of 1521
Quote:
Originally Posted by aravenel View Post

Ooh, nice I do like that. Nice drape.


About every jacket looks like that in a similar position, I wouldn't be able to see 'drape' in a photo like this.
Swollen and statuesque build up chests full of domette and haircloth on totally lean jackets do collapse quite similar to this a similar posture just like do jackets that are just extremely tight...


Btw this drape is would be illegal anyway foo.gif:

"Thanks for visiting!

The photos posted on this tumblr are mine personal photos. Other then being reblogged within the tumblr community, they are strictly prohibited from being used in any other venue for any purposes. Photos do not belong to me will be noted, and linked whenever possible. Thanks for your understanding.

G"
post #1106 of 1521
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cravate_Noire View Post

About every jacket looks like that in a similar position, I wouldn't be able to see 'drape' in a photo like this.
Swollen and statuesque build up chests full of domette and haircloth on totally lean jackets do collapse quite similar to this a similar posture just like do jackets that are just extremely tight...

True, but it looks like nice drape from the pic, so in my mind and in lieu of pics to the contrary, I will continue to associate it with having nice drape smile.gif
post #1107 of 1521

Double breasted vests in high quality, where could that be bought? Thinking of diffrent colors. Or is the only way to go bespoke?

Can't really find good online webshops..

post #1108 of 1521
Ede and Ravenscroft or Favourbrook.
post #1109 of 1521
Quote:
Originally Posted by SkinnyGoomba View Post

Readjust your proportions, that is fantastic.

+1
post #1110 of 1521
Quote:
Originally Posted by RogerC View Post

Ede and Ravenscroft or Favourbrook.

Thanks, just what I was looking for.

 

Now a second question could a double breasted vest be worn with a single 2 button suit?

New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Classic Menswear
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Double Breasted Style.