Double Breasted Style. - Page 74

Originally Posted by Concordia 

Well, part of DB is having confidence in what you have to say. These could be a bit trimmer but I wouldn't change the basic look.

One odd thing about Chan is that while they do very elegant large-bellied "swooping" peak lapels for SB jackets (morning coats and the like), they refuse to do the same for DB, as A&S do. For them, the notch must properly be nearly horizontal. I asked them to copy an old A&S suit of mine and while it came out very well in most respects, it had a completely different lapel line. When I tried to negotiate different for suit #2, they firmly said no.

Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley 

How can you deduce that he is 'always uncomfortable' in his suits? The coat is certainly not tight - pulling at the buttoning point would be the dead giveaway. What you're probably referring to is the taper at the waist, a stylistic choice that most Savile Row tailors adhere too as well. Looks great.

I won't comment on your expert assumption on Italian tailors.

Originally Posted by Concordia 

It won't be confused with the original. They measured that suit within an inch of its life (they've obviously taken on this kind of project before), but made a few aesthetic changes. The notches, as I said, and the contour of the lapel. (That's their call-- I didn't meet them at the Armoury.)

At the first fitting, they tried to put in a lot of shoulder padding. I persuaded them to take out half of it and it still looks noticeably crisper than elderly A&S. Also, they were reluctant to move the armholes too tight. They did make the jacket a bit longer as well, and trimmed up the trouser legs (which might have needed it anyway).

The result doesn't look especially A&S-like, and unlike the drape suit doesn't grab me under the arms. Rather, it floats on my shoulders. While I suspect they don't do the A&S Secret Sauce on the canvas, their preference for much lighter construction makes it very comfortable on the chest. Oddly enough, it actually fits me better than their first SB jacket. The armscyes aren't nearly as tight as I like them but the structure of the jacket holds them right where they should be in relation to my shoulders, so there's plenty of freedom to move. (Normally, I have found that tailors are more apt to screw up a DB than a SB early on, as there is less flexibility to adapt to a bad cut.)

So-- all in all, a good suit, with prospects of even better ones to follow. But if I want A&S, I'll have to call London.

Originally Posted by bboysdontcryy 

Great. Do you mean lapels like this?

Originally Posted by aravenel 

Ooh, nice I do like that. Nice drape.

Originally Posted by Cravate_Noire 

About every jacket looks like that in a similar position, I wouldn't be able to see 'drape' in a photo like this.
Swollen and statuesque build up chests full of domette and haircloth on totally lean jackets do collapse quite similar to this a similar posture just like do jackets that are just extremely tight...

Originally Posted by SkinnyGoomba 

Readjust your proportions, that is fantastic.

Originally Posted by RogerC 

Ede and Ravenscroft or Favourbrook.