Double Breasted Style. - Page 73

^ Love that DB - I assume its a Liverano on one of the Armoury guys?

Quote:

Originally Posted by add911_11 


Alan likes his coats and trouser on the tight side. Suits him but I bet he is always uncomfortable.
 

How can you deduce that he is 'always uncomfortable' in his suits? The coat is certainly not tight - pulling at the buttoning point would be the dead giveaway. What you're probably referring to is the taper at the waist, a stylistic choice that most Savile Row tailors adhere too as well. Looks great.

I won't comment on your expert assumption on Italian tailors.

Don't like the look one bit. Lapels look way too huge, almost ostentatiously pretentious.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Concordia 

Well, part of DB is having confidence in what you have to say. These could be a bit trimmer but I wouldn't change the basic look.

One odd thing about Chan is that while they do very elegant large-bellied "swooping" peak lapels for SB jackets (morning coats and the like), they refuse to do the same for DB, as A&S do. For them, the notch must properly be nearly horizontal. I asked them to copy an old A&S suit of mine and while it came out very well in most respects, it had a completely different lapel line. When I tried to negotiate different for suit #2, they firmly said no.

I once read something about one of the Armoury guys trying to dictate a certain sort of "house cut" that Chan should adhere to, where the peak lapels have a horizontal notch. Perhaps that's why.

In any case, I think the above DB's lapels look hideous and I'm not a fan of horizontal notch peak lapels at all.

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Upright Man 


I agree.

I've noticed this style, not just with double-breasted jackets, but with many of the single breasted jackets too. Far too much waist suppression and generally too tight.

It's not a good look.

I agree. Too aggressive of a waist suppression. Don't like the look one bit.