Not to me, width looks OK. It's the shaping of the edge and collar that could use a tweak
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Double Breasted Style. - Page 73
Styleforum Top Pickspost #1082 of 20241/17/13 at 10:08ampost #1083 of 20241/17/13 at 10:26ampost #1084 of 20241/17/13 at 11:27ampost #1085 of 20241/17/13 at 1:31pmpost #1086 of 20241/17/13 at 1:31pmpost #1087 of 20241/17/13 at 2:05pmpost #1088 of 20241/17/13 at 2:47pmpost #1089 of 20241/17/13 at 3:04pmQuote:
How can you deduce that he is 'always uncomfortable' in his suits? The coat is certainly not tight - pulling at the buttoning point would be the dead giveaway. What you're probably referring to is the taper at the waist, a stylistic choice that most Savile Row tailors adhere too as well. Looks great.
I won't comment on your expert assumption on Italian tailors.post #1090 of 20241/17/13 at 3:08pmpost #1091 of 20241/17/13 at 4:47pmpost #1092 of 20241/17/13 at 5:05pmpost #1093 of 20241/17/13 at 5:39pmWell, part of DB is having confidence in what you have to say. These could be a bit trimmer but I wouldn't change the basic look.
One odd thing about Chan is that while they do very elegant large-bellied "swooping" peak lapels for SB jackets (morning coats and the like), they refuse to do the same for DB, as A&S do. For them, the notch must properly be nearly horizontal. I asked them to copy an old A&S suit of mine and while it came out very well in most respects, it had a completely different lapel line. When I tried to negotiate different for suit #2, they firmly said no.post #1094 of 20241/17/13 at 7:47pmQuote:
I've noticed this style, not just with double-breasted jackets, but with many of the single breasted jackets too. Far too much waist suppression and generally too tight.
It's not a good look.post #1095 of 20241/18/13 at 1:49amQuote:Originally Posted by Concordia
Well, part of DB is having confidence in what you have to say. These could be a bit trimmer but I wouldn't change the basic look.
One odd thing about Chan is that while they do very elegant large-bellied "swooping" peak lapels for SB jackets (morning coats and the like), they refuse to do the same for DB, as A&S do. For them, the notch must properly be nearly horizontal. I asked them to copy an old A&S suit of mine and while it came out very well in most respects, it had a completely different lapel line. When I tried to negotiate different for suit #2, they firmly said no.
I once read something about one of the Armoury guys trying to dictate a certain sort of "house cut" that Chan should adhere to, where the peak lapels have a horizontal notch. Perhaps that's why.
In any case, I think the above DB's lapels look hideous and I'm not a fan of horizontal notch peak lapels at all.Quote:
I agree. Too aggressive of a waist suppression. Don't like the look one bit.
- Double Breasted Style.
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