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Double Breasted Style. - Page 73

post #1081 of 1448
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gruto View Post

Lapels too heavy and large for that frame.

Not to me, width looks OK. It's the shaping of the edge and collar that could use a tweak
post #1082 of 1448

^ Love that DB - I assume its a Liverano on one of the Armoury guys?

post #1083 of 1448
The picture is from the Armoury guys. Not sure about the maker.
post #1084 of 1448
Only a few tailors they represent: Chan, Liverano, and Orazio.

If I were to hazard a guess, this is by Chan. Find it unlikely that the Italian tailors they represent will do such a strong roped shoulder, or cut a coat in this silhouette.
Edited by bboysdontcryy - 1/17/13 at 3:29pm
post #1085 of 1448
Quote:
Originally Posted by poorsod View Post


Alan likes his coats and trouser on the tight side. Suits him but I bet he is always uncomfortable.

This suit is made by Chan, don't think any Italian can cut the DB lapel as nice as this, that includes the big Italian names.
post #1086 of 1448
Quote:
Originally Posted by poorsod View Post


Alan likes his coats and trouser on the tight side. Suits him but I bet he is always uncomfortable.

This suit is made by Chan, don't think any Italian can cut the DB lapel as nice as this, that includes the big Italian names.
post #1087 of 1448
Sorry, but those lapels still look out of proportion to me. Not sure what it is. Maybe the photo - or my glasses.
post #1088 of 1448
Readjust your proportions, that is fantastic.
post #1089 of 1448
Quote:
Originally Posted by add911_11 View Post


Alan likes his coats and trouser on the tight side. Suits him but I bet he is always uncomfortable.
 

 

How can you deduce that he is 'always uncomfortable' in his suits? The coat is certainly not tight - pulling at the buttoning point would be the dead giveaway. What you're probably referring to is the taper at the waist, a stylistic choice that most Savile Row tailors adhere too as well. Looks great.

 

I won't comment on your expert assumption on Italian tailors.

post #1090 of 1448
Quote:

I won't comment on your expert assumption on Italian tailors.

There also two, maximum 3 of them around as wel...shog[1].gif
post #1091 of 1448
TBH it looks feminine to me. Too much of an "X" and not a "V". His physique should call for more drape in the chest.
post #1092 of 1448

Don't like the look one bit. Lapels look way too huge, almost ostentatiously pretentious.

post #1093 of 1448
Well, part of DB is having confidence in what you have to say. These could be a bit trimmer but I wouldn't change the basic look.

One odd thing about Chan is that while they do very elegant large-bellied "swooping" peak lapels for SB jackets (morning coats and the like), they refuse to do the same for DB, as A&S do. For them, the notch must properly be nearly horizontal. I asked them to copy an old A&S suit of mine and while it came out very well in most respects, it had a completely different lapel line. When I tried to negotiate different for suit #2, they firmly said no.
post #1094 of 1448
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ich_Dien View Post

TBH it looks feminine to me. Too much of an "X" and not a "V". His physique should call for more drape in the chest.

I agree.

I've noticed this style, not just with double-breasted jackets, but with many of the single breasted jackets too. Far too much waist suppression and generally too tight.

It's not a good look.
post #1095 of 1448
Quote:
Originally Posted by Concordia View Post

Well, part of DB is having confidence in what you have to say. These could be a bit trimmer but I wouldn't change the basic look.

One odd thing about Chan is that while they do very elegant large-bellied "swooping" peak lapels for SB jackets (morning coats and the like), they refuse to do the same for DB, as A&S do. For them, the notch must properly be nearly horizontal. I asked them to copy an old A&S suit of mine and while it came out very well in most respects, it had a completely different lapel line. When I tried to negotiate different for suit #2, they firmly said no.

I once read something about one of the Armoury guys trying to dictate a certain sort of "house cut" that Chan should adhere to, where the peak lapels have a horizontal notch. Perhaps that's why.

 

In any case, I think the above DB's lapels look hideous and I'm not a fan of horizontal notch peak lapels at all.

Quote:
Originally Posted by The Upright Man View Post


I agree.

I've noticed this style, not just with double-breasted jackets, but with many of the single breasted jackets too. Far too much waist suppression and generally too tight.

It's not a good look.

I agree. Too aggressive of a waist suppression. Don't like the look one bit.

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