MTM Suit Help

I am visiting Martin Greenfield next weekend and wanted some help on two suits. I am thinking of getting a charcoal grey pinstripe or solid, and a navy suit with or without pattern. I am looking for advice on suits that can be conservative with the details, I am client facing most of the time and don't want to be extremely flashy:

3 roll 2 (can a 2 button peak lapel be conservative)
standard with lapel
working buttons
pick stitching?
straight flap?
ticket pocket?
dual vent
pleated pants with cuff
custom lining?


Can anyone suggest anything other things I might have overlooked, or should include?

3-2 roll ok, peak lapels not so much when dealing with conservative clients
working buttons purely up to you
pick stitching always ok
straight flap good
no ticket pocket for clients
dual vents fine
pleats and cuffs up to you, but tradition dictates pleats and cuffs if client based wardrobe
custom lining should be tasteful

hope this helps. i gave my opinion based on the assumption of a conservative client.

For your gray suit, I would favor a charcoal solid over stripes. A gray solid is the most versatile suit of all. With a solid gray suit you can present many different levels of formality, based on your choice of shirt and tie and shoes. Once you involve stripes, you start to limit your choice of matching accesories.

We just had a thread discussing if striped suits were appropriate in non-business situations.

http://styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=64567

Some people do perceive striped suits as business only, which is one more reason to consider a solid suit first.

FWIW, I love striped suits, especially chalkstripes!

I also think holding off on the peak lapels might be a good idea. They are a classic (as well as being somewhat fashionable these days) but a little bit more on the dandy side.

I think a ticket pocket and double vented jackets go well together. As neither is particularly conservative (in american terms, obviously they are quite traditional in the UK) I don't think I would necessarily drop the ticket pocket if you like the look.

Originally Posted by Beckwith

Click to expand...

I am thinking of getting a charcoal grey pinstripe or solid, and a navy suit with or without pattern.

Actually for the navy suit I would go solid as well. If you desire a pattern, perhaps it could be a subtle herringbone that doesn't even look like a pattern from a distance. Also, darker shades of navy are usually considered more businesslike. However, there are some people with light complexions and blond hair who benefit from suits in lighter shades of blue.

It's so tempting when you're ordering nice custom suits to go for the exciting patterns (plaids, stripes, windowpane, etc.) rather than plain solids. But you said you don't want to look flashy, and any pattern on a suit starts to move in the direction of flash.

I made the mistake of ordering my first custom suit in gray flannel with reddish stripes. The fabric is cool, and I was excited to get something special. It's a beautful suit, but it's very difficult to find shirts and ties to match, and it's inappropriate for most occasions that call for a suit. After that experience, all the suits I've had made are solids.

...and remember, if you get bored you could wear a bold blue checked shirt with the solid navy suit and a purple or pink shirt with the solid gray one.

I would definitely get both suits in solid colors and get a more midnight blue than navy.

No tick pocket, single vent, two button and a notch lapel.

Nothing flashy by any means.

With all the attention to Mayor Bloomberg, I wonder if Martin will measure me. I think i am switching to a higher gorge 2 button, with a nice lapel roll. Ticket pockets and side vents. Charcoal and blue are the two I am aiming for, but let's see what happens when the fabric books come out.