Japanese Cordovan

Fishball · May 26, 2008

Finally I ordered 2 sheets of shell cordovan from Japan. Made by Shinki-Hikaku Co.
They will ship them to me this week, hope I will get them next week.
I will compare it with the shell I ordered from Horween.
It is very diffcult to order stuff from Japan. Hope that the leather is good.
They are much much cheaper than Horween charge.

lee_44106 · May 26, 2008

Horween may be more expensive, but it is the gold standard by which all other shell cordovans should be judged. Do post some pictures.

blackplatano · May 26, 2008

what are you going to make with it?

acidboy · May 26, 2008

Interesting! Keep us posted, Fishball.

Tarmac · May 26, 2008

I'm not sure of the differences in specific shell factories in Japan, but I have seen one example Japanese cordovan along with a swatch book of their different shell colors and it was FAR FAR better than Horween. It was being used on wallets made by Works inc/Iron Heart.

I wouldn't call Horween a gold standard, I would call it the only game in town for english speakers. That quote that is floating around the internet that "Horween is the only remaining shell manufacturer" is pure myth.

The Japanese cordovan was thicker, more even, softer, less glossy, and came in 5 different colors including red and blue.

Fishball · May 27, 2008

I don't think many japanese tanneries still make cordovan.
Shinki-Hikaku Co. of course is the most famous one, if not the only one.
You can read their interview in the last issue of "LAST."

Blackplatano,
I am thinking to make a pair of shoe/boot, or watch straps etc.

Tarmac,
But some people said Japanese cordovan is "plasticly." I think the cordovan they used to make the school backpack for kids may be look "plasticly", but not those I saw for wallet and bag.

LeatherSOUL · May 27, 2008

I have a KT Lewiston (Lakota Alden Ripoff brand) belt in whiskey shell and it is really plasticy and has actually gotten rough over the years.

All of the wallets I have seen all seem plasticy and cheap compared to Horween. I have nothing against Japanese shell, but all the examples I've seen in person (and I've seen a lot) have not been as nice as Horween.

Tomasso · May 27, 2008

Originally Posted by Tarmac

I wouldn't call Horween a gold standard, I would call it the only game in town for english speakers.
And European shoemakers like Lattanzi and Lobb choose the more expensive yet inferior cordovan from Horween because....?

kolecho · May 27, 2008

Originally Posted by LeatherSOUL

I have a KT Lewiston (Lakota Alden Ripoff brand) belt in whiskey shell and it is really plasticy and has actually gotten rough over the years.

All of the wallets I have seen all seem plasticy and cheap compared to Horween. I have nothing against Japanese shell, but all the examples I've seen in person (and I've seen a lot) have not been as nice as Horween.

I have seen small leather goods made out of Horween and Japanese shells side by side. Horween wins hands down. I would be interested to know if there is better Japanese shell out there.

What has been said so far does not seem to add up.... potentially better quality for less $$, so I am with LSoul.

Fishball · May 27, 2008

The company sent out the leather today, so I think I will get it soon. Wait and see.

Kolecho,
I just found out Mayer making Cordovan shoe in Hong Kong, shell from Horween. The price is not bad, USD582/pair. I may try it later.

mrmax · May 27, 2008

Fishball you are the king of Hong Kong sourcing. I would love to make a cordovan strap for my Lange. Would you mind sharing pricing information?

$582 is also a good deal from Mayer! I tried the low-cost option "Zee's" and the result was very poor. I waited a few weeks and eventually they just cancelled the order and said 'no more leather'. Waste of time. I should note that I did get a full refund, however.

Tarmac · May 27, 2008

Originally Posted by Tomasso

And European shoemakers like Lattanzi and Lobb choose the more expensive yet inferior cordovan from Horween because....?

Horween is more expensive? The japanese wallet had one panel of cordovan (about 8" x 8") and it cost $800+

LeatherSOUL · May 27, 2008

Originally Posted by Tarmac

Horween is more expensive? The japanese wallet had one panel of cordovan (about 8" x 8") and it cost $800+

Yeah but if it was made of Horween it would have been $1000+.

Fishball · May 27, 2008

maxxed,

I'm thinking to make a pair of shell cordovan in EG Dover model.
Mayer workmanship is not the best, but accpectable. Do ask for the goodyear welt, which is not their default welting. Go check it out!

Tarmac,
Yes, horween is more expensive.

One thing I don't understand.
Labour and land is not cheaper in Japan than States. Both source their horse butt in europe. Why horween is that expensive? That means horween make a lot of money.

Fishball · May 27, 2008

Tom,

The Warmthcrafts by Shinki-Hikaku Co don't look like plasticly at all.

Japanese Cordovan

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