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Rubinacci visiting NYC (May 27-29) - Page 3

post #31 of 157
I know from own experience with Chris that the basted fitting was very valuable. It allowed Chris to rip the jacket apart in the mirror and rebaste it to provide better balance. End result: perfect fit for my odd frame.
post #32 of 157
I wonder if the difference in fit between iammatt's Rubinacci and the others has anything to do with the fact that he's had several fittings in Naples with Mariano......... At the end of the day, hotel room deals (of any kind) can be a bit dodgy.
post #33 of 157
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tomasso View Post
I wonder if the difference in fit between iammatt's Rubinacci and the others has anything to do with the fact that he's had several fittings in Naples with Mariano......... At the end of the day, hotel room deals (of any kind) can be a bit dodgy.
Including conventions?
post #34 of 157
Quote:
Originally Posted by LabelKing View Post
Including conventions?
Mr. GE and his minions were rattling their sabers right next door to me all day yesterday; Lord knows what happened in their rooms.
post #35 of 157
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tomasso View Post
Mr. GE and his minions were rattling their sabers right next door to me all day yesterday; Lord knows what happened in their rooms.

I think they might have been having an ironing demonstration.
post #36 of 157
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tomasso View Post
I wonder if the difference in fit between iammatt's Rubinacci and the others has anything to do with the fact that he's had several fittings in Naples with Mariano......... At the end of the day, hotel room deals (of any kind) can be a bit dodgy.

My opinion is that whether one is fitted in a hotel room or a shop makes no difference.

The important thing is that you are fitted with the stylist, cutter, and fitter present at the same time. They can be present in the form of different individuals working together (e.g., Marianno the stylist and Gennaro the tailor in London House in Naples, or the usual setup on Savile Row) or these responsibilities can be present in the form of one person (e.g., Chris Despos or Edwin DeBoise).

It is in the first structure...where different individuals handle only one or two of those three responsibilities...where location becomes a possible obstacle to the best results if the location causes asynchronous assessment of how the garment is developing.

Even when co-located, I am skeptical of the common setup where the stylist and cutter are different people. Rubinacci customers who have their stuff done up in Naples seem to feel that there is a nearly telepathic bond between Marianno and Gennaro. Whenever there is a long working relationship between such individuals, there is no reason to expect bad results that would be due to poor interactive judgment. But, where the stylist is not in the same room as the technician, or when the person you see is only a technician, I think that is where you lose the full benefits of the bespoke process.

- B
post #37 of 157
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tomasso View Post
I wonder if the difference in fit between iammatt's Rubinacci and the others has anything to do with the fact that he's had several fittings in Naples with Mariano......... At the end of the day, hotel room deals (of any kind) can be a bit dodgy.

If it makes any difference, both my fittings were in Naples with Mariano and Gennaro.
post #38 of 157
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post
If it makes any difference, both my fittings were in Naples with Mariano and Gennaro.
So they let you leave the shop with this back?


post #39 of 157
I saw this jacket on Mafoofan and the picture above is not a fair representation. The back shoulder does need to be squared but you have to move and stand a certain way to get the effect that is shown in this picture. The fullness is not always there. IIRC Mariano was aware of this at the final fitting and told Mafoofan it would need adjusting but to wear it first since it is the first jacket and he would adjust it at the next meeting.
post #40 of 157
Thread Starter 
Well, I met Luca today. Previously, I had only talked to him for about 15 seconds back in Naples. As it turns out, he's just as pleasant and friendly as his father--which is saying a lot.

Anyway, I was surprised to find that my charcoal herringbone suit was actually done. We spent 20-30 minutes scrutinizing it; I'm very satisfied, but I'm sure there will be a fair share of criticism when I find time to get some picture up .

He also brought dozens and dozens of tie swatches for me to look at. Manton will be happy to know that I wound up picking an actual wedding tie--two, actually. One is light blue and brown houndstooth; the other has fine brown strips over a blue and white background. I'm not sure which I'll wind up wearing.

I also picked a few ties to be made from vintage silk that I'll pick up in Naples. My favorite one looks almost Japanese; it's navy blue with little red/white flowers.

For those that are interested, Luca tells me that they will start offering bespoke ties online within a couple of months.
post #41 of 157
^^^

mafoofan- thanks for the update. Looking forward to seeing photos of your new suit and wedding ties. The vintage silks also sound very interesting...
post #42 of 157
Quote:
Originally Posted by academe View Post
^^^

mafoofan- thanks for the update. Looking forward to seeing photos of your new suit and wedding ties. The vintage silks also sound very interesting...

+1

So, did they straight-finish your second suit? That would be odd, but if it fits it fits!
post #43 of 157
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley View Post
+1

So, did they straight-finish your second suit? That would be odd, but if it fits it fits!

No, I had a fitting for it last time Mariano was in NYC. But it's exactly the same configuration as my sportcoat (minus the patch pockets), so I imagine only minor changes were needed in the first place.
post #44 of 157
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post
We spent 20-30 minutes scrutinizing it; I'm very satisfied, but I'm sure there will be a fair share of criticism when I find time to get some picture up .


Do yourself a favor, either post a pic in the WAYWT thread with no mention that it's your Rubi suit or don't post anything because if you make a separate thread about it, here's how it will go:

1. You post pic
2. Some will love it, some will go out of their way to post a crticism with the suit or your stylistic choice
3. You put on your lawyer hat and cross examine them
4. They then point out even more things that are "wrong" and compare your suit to a "perfect" fitting one from someone else.
5. You can't see their argument and continue to drill down.
6. They then start making snarky remarks about your height
7. Thread is now on page 18

Get your suit, wear it, enjoy it and don't give a sh*t what some internet sartorialist wearing K-Mart boxers posts.
post #45 of 157
Quote:
Originally Posted by edmorel View Post

Get your suit, wear it, enjoy it and don't give a sh*t what some internet sartorialist wearing K-Mart boxers posts.

Amen.
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