Originally Posted by voxsartoria
After going through a few rounds, I think that the ideal is:
- First commission, or change in button stance (mainly, SB vs. DB): baste fitting, forward fitting and a refitting after wear.
- Subsequent fittings: forward fitting and refitting after wear.
Some tailors view the baste fitting as useless, and if they're good, that can be true.
Originally Posted by Despos
No, I would say some don't know how to work a basted fitting. Don't know how to put a basted jacket on a client or work with one. Basted requires a sharper, experienced eye.
Clients are different as well. Some I don't give a fitting, straight to finish, no problems, some I would never think to make a jacket without a basted fitting no matter how many suits I've made him. I like the basted stage because you get to see how the cloth reacts. Some cloths grow, some shrink but it gets worked out before the finishing. I would rather skip the forward stage than the basted try-on. Guess I'm not that good.
Would you mind elaborating. I think this is very interesting. Somewhere, I got the idea that the huge overseas trade made Savile Row tailors develop a large emphasis on careful cutting technique and pattern drafting to cut down on the number of required fittings. This could be true. Obviously, it could also be a lot of bunk, designed to justify a practice that is forced on them by, in the best case, their customers' distance and, in the worst case, their own cash flow needs.
On the other hand, it would not surprise me if tailors who use bastes can come to rely on them to be a little less careful or precise in their drafting and cutting. I think I have experienced this myself.
The point you make about using the baste to deal with things that can't be anticipated at the drafting stage is therefore very interesting. Please explain more. What do you mean, exactly? How do you apply your own experience to things you see at a baste?