What is the colour I should be buying for Saphir Creme if I have GT in Cigar colour? Or Should I just use the neutral creme?
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Medium or light brown for color touchups would be good. Otherwise use neutral. Mahogany has a hint of red which could be interesting.
Brian, good advice and you did a great job explaining the differences between hitting the streets and a trail and what's needed as far as maintenance is concerned. I'm sure you've followed my antics with my 721LTDs. I've used both Snoseal and Wolverine/Redwing boot oil on them. One thing I can tell you is it is possible to use these products and still get a great shine. The key to this is you have to wait things out and then put in a lot of elbow grease. What I did with the shell boots will also work on any of the other leathers used by Wolverine/Redwing. (BTW they are the same company just different brand names)
For anyone who's wondering if what Brian is saying is sound you can bet on it. The products he mentions are all good and will keep your boots healthy for a long time.
Anyway here's what my shell 721s look like today. Looking at the pic you would never guess what these have been through....
Those Shell 721's are awesome. They've seen more trails and adventures than all my boots combined and look just as well taken care of.
I wouldn't even worry bother with creme. Just get Renovateur. Renovateur only comes in one color (nuetral) and works with all boot colors. It works perfectly with my Cigar GT's.
I only use cremes if I've managed to get some scuffs that were deep enough to be a different color than the boot. For example, I've had deep scratches in my black 1000 mile boots that resulted in charcoal/grey looking scratches. Using Saphir would've been like putting wax over deep scratches on a car. You'd still see the metal. So you'd have to use black boot cream to get that black color back in the scratched areas.
That's what Crane means by the touch ups. For regular cleanups/polishes/conditioning, stick to Saphir Renovateur or Venitian Shoe Cream. It will be all you should need unless those deep, discoloring scratches occur.
What you're describing is common with some of the products mentioned in this thread. It's the waxes blooming up and it'll disappear after a few good brushings.
RW leather conditioner is a great product. That's a generous gesture, too. If I didn't already have some I'd jump right on it.
Also, I promised to share my experiences with the polyurethane on the soles to keep them from some serious scuffing/soaking/darkening/etc. I first started with Minwax Polyurethane. For me, it was sub-par. It took FOREVER to dry, even though it was "fast drying", it never really dried... After 5 days it still felt tacky and attracted dirt like crazy. Not only that, I wasn't at all happy with how much it darkened the soles with its oil based formula. Granted, it's not supposed to darken after the coating, it still got pretty damn dark and ugly (I'm a fan of contrasting soles from the uppers).
With all the said however, Minwax Polycrylic was a much different story. It's a water based formula and dries to the touch in 10-15 minutes. It doesn't darken the soles at all, and seems to add the same amount of protection and durability that the oil based formula did. It's a water based formula, so it's less messy. I've done a couple coats on all my boot soles and I couldn't be happier. I highly recommend it, especially if you're trying to keep your soles contrasting from the leather uppers, and also to add a nice durable layer of protection.
Trust me, don't waste your time by having to sand off all the oil based polyurethane like I did, just stick to the polycrylic. It was in all areas superior to the polyurethane.
Also, stick to satin. The semi ends up looking like full gloss on leather. Even satin leaves you with a little bit of a sheen. Too much sheen, like with the semi-gloss and gloss make the leather sole look cheap, fake and like plastic. Satin is the right amount of sheen to make the leather look natural.
Edited by BrianMendoza - 5/10/12 at 12:51am
Well, when you mentioned the white residue earlier, that's usually a sign of over waxing/conditioning. Those creases are probably more prominent because of two things: The white residue is stuck in the creases, making them stick out more visually, so you would just have to really wipe down those areas. Or second, leather that's moistened up will become more flexible. And some times, that flexibility leads to more creases. It might look a little bit bothersome now, but it's a lot better than getting dry cracks from leather that's been dried out.
It sounds to me that your boots are just a bit over conditioned right now. Let those oils/conditioning ingredients absorb by not conditioning them for a little bit and giving them some wearing time and then wiping down any of that white residue if it continues to show up. My brown 1000 miles are way too over conditioned right now, the leather feels soggy and the creases are ever increasing. They were pretty much my tester boot when I would try new products and it resulted in them being over conditioned, so it's just a matter of time and wear until it'll absorb and become normal again. You're really only supposed to condition your boots every 3 months or so, depending on the type of leather, and stick to just a simple brushing in between those times.
Anyone know when might be the next opportunity to get these on sales in a size I can wear?
The modified heel looks so much better. The newer shoes in the beckman series (beckman chukka, oxford, indy's) all have larger wooden block heel like these. I wonder if Red Wing would update the beckman moc-toe/round-toe boots to feature wooden block heel like these.
Has anyone used red-wing-shoes.org? Something about it feels a bit sketchy to me, but they're selling the chestnut GT's for $265, with free shipping, and that's the lowest I've found. http://www.red-wing-shoes.org/red-wing-shoes-for-men-9013-beckman-round-boot-p-567.html