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New Commission

post #1 of 28
Thread Starter 
Just to whet your appetite a bit--no pictures yet-- but I just received my suit from Raja. It's a dark blue with light blue windowpane, two piece, with peaked lapels and a bit of waist suppression. I love it. A few qualms though: I asked for hacking pockets and a ticket pocket (I know, it's odd, but I thought it would be distinctive) and they gave me straight flap pockets and no ticket pocket. At least it's a classic look, and the pockets are double besomed. Instead of just putting my name on the inside of the jacket, they've tucked that into a pocket, and added a patch reading: VALENTINO GARAVANI Tessuti Uomo Yeah, right. Why can't these guys do a nice tag? Also, the jacket looks a bit long, and the shirt I ordered as well is long in the sleeves and big in the cuffs. Other than that, I think this was a great deal. I'll get the wife to take pictures today and hope to post them tomorrow or so. This MTM thing is really a problem, isn't it? It's too fun... Dangerous to the wallet, even at Raja's prices.
post #2 of 28
Sounds like nice fabric, but the fact that they screwed up the pockets that badly from your request is pretty dang glaring. (At least it wasn't the other way around though.)
post #3 of 28
Thread Starter 
An update is in order. A week or so ago (this month is flying by) I went back for a fitting or sorts. Regarding my problems from before: They insisted I had asked for the pockets which I had received, and had requested hacking pockets on the odd jacket which is being made now. Perhaps I didn't in a moment of clarity. Either way, they look fine, so no bother. What I thought was a repaired gash on the fron--noticed after my post, and a MAJOR issue--turned out to be something sticky like gum stuck to the front, which he picked off easily. It could have come from the factory I suppose. Not all that professional, but you get what you pay for, or don't in this case. He agreed that the jacket was too long and is shortening it by a half inch. The sleeves on the forthcoming shirts will be shortened by a quarter inch. He thought about raising the top button but because I wasn't wearing a tie, decided against it. The button stance is slightly low, but I think it works on this suit. Satisfied, I put through the order for the jacket, trousers, and five additional shirts. They should be here, with the repaired jacket, in early January. I'll have pictures then.
post #4 of 28
If the jacket is being shortened, the pocket height will be thrown off. Dr. Bresch posted some pics on AA highlighting this concern. Fortunately, you aren't having a major overhaul done, so this may not be a problem. If the pockets do end up looking too low, try tucking the pockets in, or having Raja remove the flaps. It will make the pockets look higher, because the flap extends down lower than the pocket edge. Also, at the very least it will make the pockets less noticeable. Glad you got what sounds like a very serviceable suit for a great price. Your mention of the flaws is worrisome in one sense, but their eagerness to correct problems is reassuring.
post #5 of 28
Thread Starter 
I agree with your comments, and hope that the balance isn't too off. If it's bad, I will see if they can fix it, but for the price, I'm still very happy. The suit cost less than a OTR number from Filene's, so it's hard to complain too much.
post #6 of 28
After extensive dealings with Raja, I'm going to have to warn you: if you think the fact that they messed up a simple detail like hacking slant with ticket pockets is a fluke, think again. They seemed to have screwed up every order of mine one way or another and I bought quite a few suits from them. Also, beware of the quality. Some of the front buttons on one of my suits are already coming lose, and I've only worn the stupid thing no more than 5 times now. Third, price. It's really not as hot or as great a deal as you think it is. You are after all buying a fused suit. Granted, you're able to own a suit exactly to your own measurements with certain little added features that you want... and so one can claim that it's better than OTR... but.... he's giving you the screw on the price. Every time I've gone, I've gotten a vastly different price for the same type of suit made out of similar material. From what I understand, he used to sell all his suits for 200 dollars not more than 2 years ago but since he's gotten more popular, he's asking 700+. I've gotten him down to 600 once, but I had to buy two suits when I just wanted to buy one. The first time I went to him, he originally wanted to charge me 2,000 for 2. I think the gentlemen you meet with in the hotel rooms are unsavory characters; you deal with salesmen, not tailors and from my experience they're always trying to milk you for a deal. Always attempting to get you to purchase one more thing you didn't want and making it seem like you're screwing them somehow on the price. I love the suits (mostly because I can finally get something that sort of fits me) but hate the experience.
post #7 of 28
By the way, next time I would immediately send the suit back if they neglected to fulfill your little personal requests, such as ticket pockets, double vents, etc. Raja himself claims he'll fix the suit and make it exactly to your liking if you're not happy, though I have yet to test this claim. Don't let them bully you into think you made the mistake, past experience leads me do believe that it was absolutely their fault.
post #8 of 28
General suggestion: Why not present everything you want in writing? If necesary, go home after meeting with the tailor, type up a list of specs based on notes you took during the meeting, and send it to him.
post #9 of 28
Perhaps I am not understanding perfectly, but it seems like there are more faults with this suit than successes. You keep mentioning how great a deal you got, and how you can get exactly what you want, but the truth seems to be that you arent getting what you want, you are being bullied into thinking the mistakes are your own fault. The great thing about MTM is the fact that you can customize the suit to your specs. If he shortens that coat, both the buttons and the pockets will be too low, simple as that. I am assuming the buttonholes on the front of the jacket are done. If that is the case, it is unchangeable. Same for the positioning of the pockets. You have just payed a fee to a man who made you a suit with the wrong style pockets, then told you you were in the wrong. Now he is going to shorten the jacket, which will in essence ruin the look of the coat. You keep justifying the transaction as such a great deal etc, but the truth is you just paid a rather large amount of money for a fused suit that doesnt fit right, with the wrong kind of pockets, and a badly positioned button/pocket stance. You could have done that at the Men's Warehouse and saved yourself $500.00.
post #10 of 28
chorse, sorry to say, Raja has quite a reputation as a tourist trap in HK.....along the lines of Bobbie's, Sam's Tailor, and most of those other "tailor" shops run by Indian families in Tsimshatsui district. The tailoring tradition in HK is really a transplant from Shanghai, from which, after the communists took over in the 50's, a large expatriate-Shanghaiese community (many of whom had been in the textile trade or tailors to the large European community) fled to HK. As such, the best shops in HK are those whose owners had their roots in Shanghai, (A-Man Hing Cheong, Ascot Chang, etc), or HK people who were trained in such stores and subsequently opened their own (such as Jantzen, Wayston). By contrast, stores like Raja and Sam's have no real tailoring heritage, and are tourist-oriented (get a suit in 24 hours, type of thing). Invariably, their workshops are sweatshops across the border in China, their construction and fabrics are of low quality, typically fused with lots of glue and cheap canvass, and fit poorly. Ricky was recently laughing over a Sam's Tailor suit that someone had brought to him to be fixed. The jacket was about 2 sizes too big for the guy and already bubbling in the chest, with really crappy wool. Haha..... Oh yeah, Ricky said the guy was charged about US$600 for it too..
post #11 of 28
Thread Starter 
Wow, wasn't expecting to get this amount of responses. First of all, there is really no way I could have had a suit of this quality from MW, let alone saved $500,as I paid under $350 for the suit. True, this wasn't the entirety of my order, but I paid less for a suit, a jacket and trousers, and six shirts from Raja then I would have for one suit from Chan. The finishing is pretty darn great, and the suit has only a little fusing in the chest, a compromise I was willing to make given the price. The lapels are entirely hand sewn. The shoulders are nearly perfect. The armholes are nice and high. The trousers fit and drape well. The material is luxurious with a great pattern, and the whole thing just flat out feels good. I'm sorry to hear your experience has been so unpleasant, Doctor C. It's good that you like the suits, though. If the balance is off--and I'll be posting pictures for some help on this--I will take it to back and ask the issue to be rectified. When I asked him about moving the buttons, which he offered, and which I assumed would be impossible, he said he would replace the entire front of the coat.
post #12 of 28
Quote:
chorse, sorry to say, Raja has quite a reputation as a tourist trap in HK.....along the lines of Bobbie's, Sam's Tailor, and most of those other "tailor" shops run by Indian families in Tsimshatsui district. The tailoring tradition in HK is really a transplant from Shanghai, from which, after the communists took over in the 50's, a large expatriate-Shanghaiese community (many of whom had been in the textile trade or tailors to the large European community) fled to HK. As such, the best shops in HK are those whose owners had their roots in Shanghai, (A-Man Hing Cheong, Ascot Chang, etc), or HK people who were trained in such stores and subsequently opened their own (such as Jantzen, Wayston). By contrast, stores like Raja and Sam's have no real tailoring heritage, and are tourist-oriented (get a suit in 24 hours, type of thing). Invariably, their workshops are sweatshops across the border in China, their construction and fabrics are of low quality, typically fused with lots of glue and cheap canvass, and fit poorly. Ricky was recently laughing over a Sam's Tailor suit that someone had brought to him to be fixed. The jacket was about 2 sizes too big for the guy and already bubbling in the chest, with really crappy wool. Haha..... Oh yeah, Ricky said the guy was charged about US$600 for it too..
chocoball is right on the money. Although I am born here in the US, it is a wide known fact amongst the chinese from Hong Kong that indian merchants by in large are not reputable and in the whole scheme of things fills in the low end of the spectrum. I am sure there are some decent ones out there in Hong Kong but if you want to get the best bang for the buck, my suggestion is to look for one of the small and ever decreasing number of small mom and pop type shops around Hong Kong. They will offer excellent value, maybe without the refinements of say WWChan in terms of hospitality but you will get a suit that would probably have even more hand work then you would imagine. That being said, I will be heading over there some time hopefully soon looking for one of these said tailoring shops.
post #13 of 28
Thread Starter 
Chocoball, and HitMan, thanks for the insight. I don't think I will be ordering anything else from Raja anytime soon, but for right now, it was a good option. I'm changing offices and need to add significantly to my wardrobe in a short time on limited money. Also, I feel like I'm at the age (24) income level where I'm willing to make some compromises on quality in exchange for variety. And I do feel that the suit, honest and true, is nearly perfect for the nexus of cost, quality and fit, and value. Ideally, in the future I'll be using Chan for the standard/important suits, Jantzen for shirts, and perhaps Vaish--mentioned in another post--depending on the quality of a trial suit, for knockaround and semi-casual suits, jackets, and trousers. If I could afford a trip to Hong Kong, I'd be leaving on Saturday.
post #14 of 28
Hi, please don't think I'm racist against the Indian community in HK.....I'm definitely not. Merchants like Sam's are honest traders, but their market is the tourist who wants something fast. I'm sure there must be some good Indian tailors that I just don't know of. chorse, have you considered getting RTW on sale and having them altered to fit you properly? It works if you can find a good seamstress/seamster in London who does good alteration work. I use a guy in HK who works wonders.....he can take apart a RTW suit and make it fit across the shoulders, chest and waist like it was almost bespoke. He can even turn non-functioning sleeve buttons into functioning ones. In fact, even all of my overcoats have functioning sleeve buttons now.....
post #15 of 28
Thread Starter 
A package arrived at my flat today with the suit jacket, odd jacket and trousers. I'll post a report tonight.
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