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Suit Fabrics

post #1 of 12
Thread Starter 
It seems that a thread like this would start a flame war but I am curious as to which brand makes fabrics that you find the most appealing. That is the first criteria, second being who would you consider makes the best bang for the buck? What I am really focusing on is fabrics around the 110s 120s. Maybe up to 150s but I don't think anymore since those are not in the range of being pratical. These numbers are by themselves worthless since every company seems to have their own scale at best or fudge the truth at worst. OK, let the wars begin....
post #2 of 12
My favorite fabric mill is Vitale Barberis......consistent, high performance, easily tailored, and classic patterns. I have NEVER had a problem with them and my clientel continually comes back for more and more. Currently their Revenge 130s is my best seller in suitings and the 110s Classics are my best selling trouser.
post #3 of 12
Thread Starter 
Would you consider Vitale Barberis Canonico the best bang for the buck? My first Chan suit was made in a 130s herringbone weave and I have to say it's a nice fabric that has a soft hand and excellent drape. For anyone that is looking to have trousers made, what would be the best recommendation on cloths that are durable? It has been mentioned on this board about indian, chinese and korean brands. Are these worth considering purely on a price point? Do they hold up well? Do they have elegant styles and weaves? It would also be helpful if someone can name companies that actually have mills and other that are mainly merchants/buyers. TIA
post #4 of 12
Yes I would say that Barbaris is the best bang for the buck. I charge $1998.00 for a 2 piece suit in the Revenge 130s and I believe that it is far superior in tailoring and wearing characteristics to other mills that I have to charge $2500 and up for. Again, my favorite is the Barberis 110s for year-round trousers. Every now and then I will get offers from brokers with Asian or South American goods and very cheap prices ($5-$10/yard) and I made myself some trousers out of some Indian Gabardine to try it out. Decent looking, okay wearing, but I had more in my time and trimmings than the goods cost. Some tailors use these goods to gain extra margin, but I want my $400 to perform like $400 trousers and not like Hart Shaffner Marx trousers.
post #5 of 12
Just for reference. 3 yard of genuine VBC Revenge(enough to make the whole suit) costs about $200 USD retail. Another bang for the buck suggestion I would give is GUABELLO from italy. Guabello
post #6 of 12
Quote:
Just for reference. 3 yard of genuine VBC Revenge(enough to make the whole suit) costs about $200 USD retail. Another bang for the buck suggestion I would give is GUABELLO from italy. Guabello
I was told that you need 4.5 yards for a suit. (5 yards if it has large check and you want pattern matching) If you want trousers only 1.5 yards 2.75 yards for jacket.
post #7 of 12
I may have mixed up some figure. But I am 100% certain that a tailor inside a very reputable store tells me he can make me a whole suit using VBC 130 Revenge. The material cost will be just over 200USD, and he charges about 350USD for the labour cost. I didn't take up the deal though Well, I myself did have a suit made out of VBC 130 Revenge. This series has some lovely patterns, but I choose a dark charcoal colour eventually. It didn't look that sepcial at the time, but when someone shows a photo with me in the suit, it just looks great. Forget to mention, the latest Loro Piana Four season(super 120) is a good deal also. Cheaper than the other LP super 120(THe Tasmania) and a bit more durable though not as soft.
post #8 of 12
The cost for VBC Revenge from Gladson (their US distributor) landed is $130.00 a yard.
post #9 of 12
Thread Starter 
Quote:
I may have mixed up some figure. But I am 100% certain that a tailor inside a very reputable store tells me he can make me a whole suit using VBC 130 Revenge. The material cost will be just over 200USD, and he charges about 350USD for the labour cost. I didn't take up the deal though Well, I myself did have a suit made out of VBC 130 Revenge. This series has some lovely patterns, but I choose a dark charcoal colour eventually. It didn't look that sepcial at the time, but when someone shows a photo with me in the suit, it just looks great. Forget to mention, the latest Loro Piana Four season(super 120) is a good deal also. Cheaper than the other LP super 120(THe Tasmania) and a bit more durable though not as soft.
Benchan, Please let us know where we can get such great prices.
post #10 of 12
HitMan009: I miss pointing out that deal is on offer outside USA. The store I mention, despite a famous one for fine clothing, does not offer any online purchasing. I think different markup by distributors in various country, import tax?, and purchasing power of big company contribute to the discrepancies in price. Also in the place that I currently residue, consumers are really brand conscious. And fabrics from Reda, VBC, Guabello are not recognized by many, and thus command a lower price. Also as cost of constructing a bespoke suit is constant for different fabrics, many customers just choose to use materials from a more famous mills. While on the subejct, any one here care to comment on the Holland & Sherry's bespoke weaving series(the Initial collection)? Dumb idea or great?
post #11 of 12
I have sold 2 suits from the H&S Initial series, both to NFL players. It gives me something unique to offer clients. One had his mother's name woven in as the stripe and the oter one had his jersey number.
post #12 of 12
Quote:
While on the subejct, any one here care to comment on the Holland & Sherry's bespoke weaving series(the Initial collection)? Dumb idea or great?
Vulgar, IMHO.
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