or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Pants silhouette
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Pants silhouette - Page 2

post #16 of 23
Quote:
Anybody with similar measurements to my own that can recommend good fitting flat fronts?
bch--I recently expanded to a pretty solid 33-34" waist (which is pissing me off to no end, but that's another story entirely) and have 40-41" hips. 29" inseam, 5'7" tall. I tried on a Helmut Lang suit and was shocked at how well the trousers fit, almost shocked enough to drop 550 euro on a suit I blatantly didn't need. The look of the trousers was perfect. Plenty of room to move comfortably through the hips and thighs but enough taper not to look baggy around the knees and ankles. Best of all, it came complete with button fly. If the jacket hadn't been almost 4" too long I would have gone for it. Tom
post #17 of 23
As someone of gnomish size, I prefer flat front. Pleated pants give me too much room, shortening me even more. For the same reasons, I will go for a lower rise : right under the belly button or on the hips for some of my most outrageous designer pants what is important to me, and has not been mentioned yet in this thread, is the way the pants will follow your thighs. Nicely shaping your tighs and your butt is the key to a great looking pants (I said "shaping", which will mean gently following the curves) : then you can go for straight legs, or tappering, or drainpipe : it's just a matter of style. Another note, a key to a great looking pants, is the right pair of shoes : longer, pointy, plain, they have to match the pants by ending the silhouette (i.e : pointy shoes with drainpipes, plain round shoes with a full straight legs). Last : no bootcut on dress pants, never. Bootcut looks great on jeans because of the thick fabrics. Hope it helped a bit. My size : 170 cm / 62 kg. Almost anything off the rack will fit me, albeit a bit too long .luc
post #18 of 23
Quote:
. Another note, a key to a great looking pants, is the right pair of shoes : longer, pointy, plain, they have to match the pants by ending the silhouette (i.e : pointy shoes with drainpipes, plain round shoes with a full straight legs).
You nailed it IMO, Luc. Which goes to show also that you should think about what kinds of pants you already have when buying a pair of shoes.
post #19 of 23
What is wrong with bootcut dress trousers? I it the drape or that isn't as attractive? I guess the crease may not be as straight. I have a pair of wool trousers from J. Lindeberg which I think are very flattering- in terms of making me look tall and thin. Very slim around the thighs, and knees, and then a slight flare. I usually wear them with a blazer. Do you think this wouldn't work in suit pants? Not to offend anyone's vision, but take a look at this suit: http://www.firstview.com/MENfall2003/GUCCI/P044.html http://www.firstview.com/MENfall2003/GUCCI/P037.html The overall style may be pretty damn sleazy, but I think the cut of the pants make him look extremely tall and thin. So, if you have his build and a nice scarf for your neck, go out and buy the suit.
post #20 of 23
Quote:
The overall style may be pretty damn sleazy, but I think the cut of the pants make him look extremely tall and thin. So, if you have his build and a nice scarf for your neck, go out and buy the suit.
"Sleazy" being the operative word. It makes me think "Boogie Nights" and "Dance Fever." Not a good look for this decade, methinks.
post #21 of 23
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Quote:
There are some great places on the Lower East Side around Delancy St. where a pair can be made for ~$50 provided that you give them cloth.
Names?  Locations? Even the midtown Indians with workrooms in HK, like Mohan's, charge far more.  I had a pair of vintage trousers copied in 1999; it was about $150 with their own cloth, a gray gabardine in my case.  I doubt CMT would have been a great deal less.
Try these places: Ramone's Tailor Shop 123 Allen St New York, NY 10002-3024 They charge $50 for a pair of pants, provided you give them the material. I don't know what the prices are now as last time I went, it was a little more then a 1 1/2 years ago. Also, check this link out: http://www.manhattanusersguide.com/archive....ervices The top two are inexpensive and have heard good things about Ludlow Express. Mind you, Ramone's seems to be run by people where English is a second language. Just make sure you ask for everything specifically and have everything written down. If you are look for cloth, just around the corner is a great place: D Singer Textile Co. 55 Delancey St New York, NY 10002-2998 You can talk to him about which tailors in the area he recommends. Seems quite honest especially when he said something to the effect of thread count is useless and 100s is great for trousers. Anything more would be a waste.
post #22 of 23
Quote:
What is wrong with bootcut dress trousers?  I it the drape or that isn't as attractive?  I guess the crease may not be as straight.  I have a pair of wool trousers from J. Lindeberg which I think are very flattering- in terms of making me look tall and thin.  Very slim around the thighs, and knees, and then a slight flare.  I usually wear them with a blazer.  Do you think this wouldn't work in suit pants?  Not to offend anyone's vision, but take a look at this suit: http://www.firstview.com/MENfall2003/GUCCI/P044.html http://www.firstview.com/MENfall2003/GUCCI/P037.html The overall style may be pretty damn sleazy, but I think the cut of the pants make him look extremely tall and thin.  So, if you have his build and a nice scarf for your neck, go out and buy the suit.  
hmm. no, this is not "bootcut". This trousers probably have straight legs, or flare legs. I have a pair of pants from Costume National which look like these, they are 25cm (10 inches) wide at the end, yet it's pretty close to the tighs. I define "bootcut" when the "flaring " begins like 4 inches from the hem : this doesn't look good on a wool/dress pants, trust me. .luc
post #23 of 23
Thread Starter 
I would think any flaring of wool trousers to be basically fashion and not to be considered for suit trousers. I do however like a tapered leg to the knee and straight from there on. I think this would be quite difficult for OTW to accomplish this perfectly. Everyone's legs are different and making this conversion hit exactly at the knee would only perfect on bespoke trousers. The Charles Clayton as mentioned on the other thread feels nice and substantial. It would be a shame not to get a suit with that type of cloth. Maybe I can remove my apprehension to high thread count cloths just this one time....
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Classic Menswear
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Pants silhouette