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Designing a new suit - what details are you looking for? - Page 6

post #76 of 98
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Irond Will View Post
That navy houndstooth suit in 40L looks pretty nice and is tempting me. My basic concerns are whether the alterations will have to be significant (I have a thin waist and ape arms) and whether I can find a tailor capable of installing the buttons/ buttonholes properly without spending a fortune.

I am in the market for a navy suit...

The fabric of the navy 150's is fantastic. You can give it a shot, run it by your tailor, and worst case scenario - send it back - we are offering free return shipping for this promotion (we would email you a Fedex shipping return label). Also keep in mind that the functional sleeve buttons are optional - your tailor can just sew them on without opting for the functionality.

Please let me know if you have any additional questions or concerns.
post #77 of 98
I just received my Benjamin suit. (Quick work, Ben!) I ordered the Navy Herringbone in a 44R. First, these are good suits, and I don't think you'd find any suit anywhere other than TaT at this price point with these details, construction and overall level of quality. It's a good suit at a great price. Second, I am not The Truth. I'm no expert, just an ordinary guy. And I didn't cut open the suit. So these are just my amateur impressions; make of them what you will. Third, Ben's pictures are better than mine, but I took some anyway. And having taken them, I'm going to inflict them on you. I hope not to scar vox in the process. Fabric: The navy herringbone is a Super 150s wool. As you can see in the pictures, it has a definite sheen to it. Most of these photos were taken with a flash, which enhances the effect, but it's very real. Some may like that, some may not. It's not my cup of tea, but YMMV. Note the Benjamin hanger too. The color is very dark for Navy--I honestly wondered if it was black when I pulled it out of the bag. Maybe it's blacker than black. Plenty of interior pockets. Keeper for your carnation and a shot of the undercollar. The tag. The tags are all in Italian. There's no country of origin label that I noticed anywhere. Sleeves are basted: Curtain waistband, split back seam on trou. I prefer a three-button closure to a button-and-clasp, myself: So... that's the nickel tour. Fit was good--a totally standard fit for a 54/44 cut in a European style. Waist suppression is mild, arm holes are reasonably high, jacket length is well within the bounds of decency. The canvassing and construction are stiffer than I am used to and prefer. The canvas has a real body to it. The chest does not have as much fabric in it as I would like--I have suits on which the chest from the lapel to the arm scye is similarly proportioned, but I'd prefer a little extra fullness there. I took a couple of fit pictures to try to capture silhouette and what I'm talking about with the chest, but they were crooked, and in straightening them I lost the bottom of the jacket; sorry. Still; perhaps they give you some idea. There's just a hint of pulling at the button there; I had my arms lifted a little bit in that picture. Buttoning stance is a little on the high side, but I guess that is the current fashion. You can see in a pic below that it's just a smidge higher than on the 3-button suit I put on to compare: I missed the focus on that shot; sorry. There's not much to see there anyway, but I wanted to set a baseline. I don't know if you can see what I mean about the chest here, but I can feel it. As I said, the best I can describe it, I feel as if I'd like a little more fabric worked in between the lapel edge and the arm hole. But as you can see here: the height of the armholes on these too suits isn't very different, really. The shape of them is. So, my verdict: I'm not going to keep this suit, but really for personal reasons. I'd prefer a softer construction, and fabrics that sheen aren't my cup of tea. The suit I'm wearing in those comparison pics is a microherringbone that I'm quite fond of, and a texture and look that was closer to that, but in navy, would appeal to me more. I wouldn't draw any conclusions from that except that it's not favorite fabric. It is, however, a good suit. Hope that was helpful for anyone who might be on the fence.
post #78 of 98
This one looks much more comfortable, and really nice. I agree with what you said about the issues on the new one. That said, it does not look like a bad suit at all, especially for the price.
post #79 of 98
Quote:
Originally Posted by iammatt View Post
This one looks much more comfortable, and really nice. I agree with what you said about the issues on the new one. That said, it does not look like a bad suit at all, especially for the price.
Thanks. It is more comfortable. I guess I should put a mafoo-esque "angle" disclaimer in here since it was shot close to waist height pointing up. It's also one of my favorite suits, and not really a fair basis of comparison to the product that Ben is offering, but I'd worn it yesterday and it was still on the valet in my room. I think that if your budget is in Ben's price range, they deserve consideration. Anything you bought at retail for $500-$600 would be fused, boxy and nasty in comparison, IME.
post #80 of 98
Quote:
Originally Posted by grimslade View Post
Thanks. It is more comfortable. I guess I should put a mafoo-esque "angle" disclaimer in here since it was shot close to waist height pointing up. It's also one of my favorite suits, and not really a fair basis of comparison to the product that Ben is offering, but I'd worn it yesterday and it was still on the valet in my room. I think that if your budget is in Ben's price range, they deserve consideration. Anything you bought at retail for $500-$600 would be fused, boxy and nasty in comparison, IME.
Well, not everybody has somebody to tell them how to take a picture. Oh, wait...
post #81 of 98
Quote:
Originally Posted by iammatt View Post
Well, not everybody has somebody to tell them how to take a picture. Oh, wait...

She was out, which was why I was allowed to play dress up for my efriends in the first place.
post #82 of 98
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by grimslade View Post
I just received my Benjamin suit. (Quick work, Ben!) I ordered the Navy Herringbone in a 44R.

Thank you once again for giving my suit a try and for your very comprehensive review - I'm sure it was helpful for many. I'm just sorry that it didn't work out as well for you as we had both hoped.

Quote:
Originally Posted by grimslade View Post
Fabric: The navy herringbone is a Super 150s wool. As you can see in the pictures, it has a definite sheen to it. Most of these photos were taken with a flash, which enhances the effect, but it's very real. Some may like that, some may not. It's not my cup of tea, but YMMV. Note the Benjamin hanger too.

Indeed the 150's navy herringbone definitely has a sheen to it - admittedly more than we expected. It didn't seem to have as much when I was looking at the swatch that was only a few square inches! The same goes for the black shadow-striped suit - that one also has distinct sheen. The navy shadowstripe has a little less, but the solid dark charcoal (our suit separates) has minimal sheen. The flannel in the brownish charcoal obviously does not have any.


Quote:
Originally Posted by grimslade View Post
The canvassing and construction are stiffer than I am used to and prefer. The canvas has a real body to it.

This is interesting to me. When I compare it side by side to Corneliani and Brioni, the canvassing of my Benjamin suit seems to be the same if not slightly lighter/thinner than both. Obviously, compared with a 1/2 canvassed garment, there's a huge difference as the 1/2 canvassed will always be thicker, heavier, and more stiff. I wonder if it's because the Benjamin suit is fresh off the hanger and never even tried on before... Often times a fully canvassed jacket (unless you're talking about Kiton or Brioni or the like) takes a little time to "break in" and mold to your body. Out of curiosity, what brand suit are you wearing in the photos that you compared it to?


Quote:
Originally Posted by grimslade View Post
The chest does not have as much fabric in it as I would like--I have suits on which the chest from the lapel to the arm scye is similarly proportioned, but I'd prefer a little extra fullness there.

If I may ask, what suit brands fit you well - just so that I can have a better idea? I wanted to create a suit with the higher armhole, which can be a little bit tricky. For me, I wear a 40R with a 34 pant, and I have to have the whole front taken in, including the chest REDUCED a little bit. It's almost the same exact alterations I need for Isaia (which was what I was trying to model my suits after - but with slightly more shoulder padding and structure). It will be interesting to see how this fits others and the feedback I receive from them. I can very easily have another centimeter added to the chest area if I find this to be a common issue...

Quote:
Originally Posted by grimslade View Post
There's just a hint of pulling at the button there; I had my arms lifted a little bit in that picture. Buttoning stance is a little on the high side, but I guess that is the current fashion. You can see in a pic below that it's just a smidge higher than on the 3-button suit I put on to compare

I'm working on another model with a lower, more classic button stance, which doesn't have the high armhole and will be an "easier" fit for most men. My hope is that this model would fit most anyone.... we'll see...

Thanks again for your honest review - would the review have been better if I doubled it and paid you another $1,000?!? Just kidding...

Anyone else care to give it a try while we still have the promotion going? Please - if anyone has any questions feel free send me a message or you can email me directly: ben@ehaberdasher.com.
post #83 of 98
Quote:
Originally Posted by eHaberdasher View Post

This is interesting to me. When I compare it side by side to Corneliani and Brioni, the canvassing of my Benjamin suit seems to be the same if not slightly lighter/thinner than both. Obviously, compared with a 1/2 canvassed garment, there's a huge difference as the 1/2 canvassed will always be thicker, heavier, and more stiff. I wonder if it's because the Benjamin suit is fresh off the hanger and never even tried on before... Often times a fully canvassed jacket (unless you're talking about Kiton or Brioni or the like) takes a little time to "break in" and mold to your body. Out of curiosity, what brand suit are you wearing in the photos that you compared it to?

I purposely left out the make of the one I compared it to so as not to muddle things, but it's an Isaia--that I bought, I believe, from eHaberdasher.com. It is fully canvased.

It may well break in, and some may prefer the feel anyway. It's not a quality issue, just a taste question.




Quote:
Originally Posted by eHaberdasher View Post
If I may ask, what suit brands fit you well - just so that I can have a better idea? I wanted to create a suit with the higher armhole, which can be a little bit tricky. For me, I wear a 40R with a 34 pant, and I have to have the whole front taken in, including the chest REDUCED a little bit. It's almost the same exact alterations I need for Isaia (which was what I was trying to model my suits after - but with slightly more shoulder padding and structure). It will be interesting to see how this fits others and the feedback I receive from them. I can very easily have another centimeter added to the chest area if I find this to be a common issue...

Isaias are probably the majority of my suits, and all of my favorites. That's why I'm always lobbying you to keep them in stock.



Quote:
Originally Posted by eHaberdasher View Post
Thanks again for your honest review - would the review have been better if I doubled it and paid you another $1,000?!? Just kidding...

It can still be amended. You have my numbered account in Switzerland?
post #84 of 98
Thread Starter 
Re: more Isaia. We're working on it - no promises yet but I'm confident you will see more of it in the future on eHaberdasher.com! Same goes for Brioni - they're both in the works, but prices are probably going to be a little higher than in the past. We'll keep you posted!
post #85 of 98
I find it a pretty handsome suit. The shine on it is a little offputting, but I like the midnight-navy color and the fabric has a good texture to it - is it just inevitable that these 140s and above have a sheen? I like that it has a somewhat tighter chest for us slightly built guys. I'll need to size up my finances and see if I can find a decent locat tailor before I pull the trigger on it, but I'm leaning towards yes. Thanks for posting the pictures and analysis, grimslade.
post #86 of 98
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Irond Will View Post
I find it a pretty handsome suit. The shine on it is a little offputting, but I like the midnight-navy color and the fabric has a good texture to it - is it just inevitable that these 140s and above have a sheen? I like that it has a somewhat tighter chest for us slightly built guys. I'll need to size up my finances and see if I can find a decent locat tailor before I pull the trigger on it, but I'm leaning towards yes. Thanks for posting the pictures and analysis, grimslade.

The shine is definitely more pronounced with the flash photos - I suppose it's hard to get an accurate depiction over the web. While there's a definite sheen, it's really not all that lustrous in my opinion. At the end of the day I suppose it's all relative and subjective...
post #87 of 98
Quote:
Originally Posted by eHaberdasher View Post
Well gents, the suits are available. Not all have been received yet - we should receive 2 more colors in the slimmer Gucci/Jil Sander fit (our "Lucente" model) in the next 10 days or so.

How do the Lucente model measurements for a 40R compare to the ones you have? Do they have slimmer shoulders or higher armholes or are they about the same?
post #88 of 98
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gradstudent78 View Post
How do the Lucente model measurements for a 40R compare to the ones you have? Do they have slimmer shoulders or higher armholes or are they about the same?

The Lucente model is slimmer all throughout than the Maestro - maybe a 1/2 size slimmer. Still has the higher armhole. I finally tried on a 40R RLBL today - my Lucente is not quite as slim - a 40R in RLBL is almost like a 38R in most brands - it seems you have to size up at least 1 to 2 sizes for RLBL. I found RLBL to be uncomfortable, frankly.
post #89 of 98
Thread Starter 
Oh and by the way, just received word that we won't get the Lucente until after the new year... sorry. I'll be sure to extend the promotion until we have them in and you have an opportunity to purchase and try it out.
post #90 of 98
Quote:
Originally Posted by eHaberdasher View Post
Oh and by the way, just received word that we won't get the Lucente until after the new year... sorry. I'll be sure to extend the promotion until we have them in and you have an opportunity to purchase and try it out.

Do you have any deals on your Versace suits?
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