I was looking for a pair of WWII Officer shoes, the kind that were worn with the dress uniform back in the 30s and 40s back when russet was the coolest color of the day. I have friends with originals and have worn a pair though have never been keen on vintage shoes lest they be deadstock which with shoes is nearly impossible for me to find. Now Buzz Ricskson is well known for it's super detailed replicas of WWII jackets and Khakis and retro jeans and being connected to Toyo industries, their reproduction 1940's Hawaiian shirts. They started making shoes a few years back and of course one of those shoes is the plain old Oxford shoe that the Army recomended officers wear back in the 1940s. They could get the government made shoe or as the manual says, they could go private purchase shoes. This wasn't uncommon for officers back during the war. At the time Officers would go to Brooks Borthers or Saks or Neiman Marcus or their own personal tailor to have their uniforms custom made and the stores would have in stock the uniform green and pink elastique material.
Anywho, buzz Rickson reproduced the classic 6 eyelet flat laced round toed Oxford that the government sold officers at the time.
I bought a pair of Buzz Rickson's
1940's U. S. Army and USAAF
Officers' Low-Quarter Service Shoes
They never ever break in. I don't know if it's the footbed they use, or if they don't have cork in there... I wear dress shoes like tennis shoes and wear through my Allen Edmonds and Alden soles and get them resoled regularly. Alden and Allen Edmonds form to the bottom of your foot within a few days, you can feel how vintage shoes are formed to the previous owner's foot as well. These Rickson shoes are my foot shape yes, yet however they are constructed, they just don't form to the soles of your feet like dress shoes usually do.
Been trying to break them in since October, and for 400 dollars they should have formed pretty well to the bottom of my feet like an original pair or just a good pair of dress shoes, yet the footbed isn't really taking much shape. I love the look, they fit my footshape well... It's just the just the footbed that makes you feel like you are walking on flat concrete.
They look fantastic, though overall not really worth the price in discomfort. Though if I were looking for a similar shoe, I'd probably in the future go for a special order Allen Edmonds Leeds in a similar color and without the Reverse welt
Also, the way the heel is done I can feel that it will never lay flat against the ground on either shoe, so over time it in a way feels like it's cutting into the heel of my foot (hope that makes sense).