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Suit concepts - Page 3

post #31 of 39
I do think it is a perfect fit... I think the pulling around the waist is the result of the stance that he is in (his shoulders are set very far back). Of course, to quote A Harris sig, who quoted a book, whose author I cannot name off the top of my head, the perfect suit only exists in personal taste. I think it would look nicer on a man with a more athletic build, but hell, it looks great on that guy too.
post #32 of 39
Isn't it also pulling because the bottom button's buttoned? In any case, it's pretty sweet.
post #33 of 39
At this point, I can't tell which coat we're talking about. In any event, one thing that strikes me about Hoare's coat is the wrap. It's an old-school Savile Row tradition to give SB coats a bit of wrap, by setting the waist button and buttonhole much further from the edge of the coat than any Italian or American tailor would. That also explains, to some extent, the pulling of the waist. But a tailor ought to be able to compensate for that. Hoare's great claim to fame was his attempt to resolve the Ethiopia crisis by cutting a secret deal with the French foreign minister to divide the country in Mussolini's favor -- a sort of Munich avant la lettre. The plan was leaked before the British and French governments could finalize it, and the ensuing outrage forced Hoare to resign. When Hoare relinquished the seals of his office to King George V, the king said to him, "Do you know what they're all saying? No more coals to Newcastle, no more Hoares to Paris." George later remarked, "You know, the fellow didn't even laugh."
post #34 of 39
Quote:
Hoare's great claim to fame was his attempt to resolve the Ethiopia crisis by cutting a secret deal with the French foreign minister to divide the country in Mussolini's favor -- a sort of Munich avant la lettre.  The plan was leaked before the British and French governments could finalize it, and the ensuing outrage forced Hoare to resign.  When Hoare relinquished the seals of his office to King George V, the king said to him, "Do you know what they're all saying?  No more coals to Newcastle, no more Hoares to Paris."  George later remarked, "You know, the fellow didn't even laugh."
Marvelous.  Where did you get that anecdote?
post #35 of 39
Quote:
A question about the lapels. Why does it look as though the left one (on him) appears as though it rolls to the middle button while the right one looks as though it rolls to the top one? Regarding the pulling around the bottom button; is it possibly caused by the fact he is photographed mid-stride with his left leg well back, pulling the back of his unvented jacket? Personally, I think the fit of the jacket and trousers is exceptional. He has perhaps a touch more break in the trousers than I prefer though.
post #36 of 39
Quote:
Marvelous.  Where did you get that anecdote?
From Churchill's memoirs.  It's also in William Manchester's The Last Lion, Volume 2, Alone.
post #37 of 39
Quote:
A question about the lapels. Why does it look as though the left one (on him) appears as though it rolls to the middle button while the right one looks as though it rolls to the top one?
It's hard to tell from the photo, but it could be that the left side of the jacket collar is too low, causing the lapel to roll long.
Quote:
Regarding the pulling around the bottom button; is it possibly caused by the fact he is photographed mid-stride with his left leg well back, pulling the back of his unvented jacket?
Possibly, but a well made coat ought to account for basic movement.  Another problem is that he's got the bottom button of the coat fastened.  Major no-no.
post #38 of 39
Thread Starter 
Manton, Do you think hacking pockets are a better fit with a peak lapel SB? I always thought the regular horizontal pockets didn't have the flair to match with the added interest a peak lapel adds to the suit.
post #39 of 39
Quote:
Do you think hacking pockets are a better fit with a peak lapel SB?  I always thought the regular horizontal pockets didn't have the flair to match with the added interest a peak lapel adds to the suit.
I think slant pockets only look right on a sports jacket, or possibly on a tweed suit. They are a hacking detail, and to my eye look out of place on a formal business suit. It's like putting french cuffs on a button-down shirt. "Sartorial mixed metaphor", in Flusser's words. If you want to spiff up a single peak suit, try besom pockets (i.e., pockets without flaps). Those go well with the added formality of the peaked lapel.
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