At this point, I can't tell which coat we're talking about. In any event, one thing that strikes me about Hoare's coat is the wrap. It's an old-school Savile Row tradition to give SB coats a bit of wrap, by setting the waist button and buttonhole much further from the edge of the coat than any Italian or American tailor would. That also explains, to some extent, the pulling of the waist. But a tailor ought to be able to compensate for that. Hoare's great claim to fame was his attempt to resolve the Ethiopia crisis by cutting a secret deal with the French foreign minister to divide the country in Mussolini's favor -- a sort of Munich avant la lettre. The plan was leaked before the British and French governments could finalize it, and the ensuing outrage forced Hoare to resign. When Hoare relinquished the seals of his office to King George V, the king said to him, "Do you know what they're all saying? No more coals to Newcastle, no more Hoares to Paris." George later remarked, "You know, the fellow didn't even laugh."