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Where's all the Savile Row stuff? - Page 7

post #91 of 281
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post
It is a perfectly valid tailoring choice to run the darts to the hem. Neapolitan tailors do it regularly, ostensibly to narrow the skirt and hips. I don't know why the tailor did it in this case, but it's not automatically wrong.

You should be ashamed of yourself. Learn to sit on your hands.
post #92 of 281
Quote:
Originally Posted by dopey View Post
You should be ashamed of yourself.

Hey, cut him some slack for honesty.

Especially in tailors, we need honesty, which is why I'm flabbergasted that such creations could come out of our Mecca of sartorial ability.

Evidently, even Savile Row makes suits which don't fit, out of laughable material which would only be wearable with a red polyester afro wig, and making dodgy coverups of mistakes.

All for the low, low price of.....how much did these cost, again?

But sure, let's keep back-slapping each other. That'll give us all great information on buying clothes. Ayup.
post #93 of 281
Quote:
Originally Posted by RSS View Post
With a symmetrically repeating pattern that runs vertically, horizontally or the orthogonal combination thereof ... coat lapels indeed have a bilateral symmetry. The patten and its angle mirror one another.

With a diagonal pattern, that bilateral symmetry is essentially impossible without a seam ... and there is none ... only the fold of the cloth. The stripe of the right lapel (as viewed) appears more toward vertical and the left more toward horizontal. As Concordia notes about the buttonholes ... that of the left lapel is cut perpendicular to the stripe while that of the right is cut parallel.

For simplicity ... assume that the pattern makes an even 45 deg. change of angle at the lapel fold (in reality it is somewhat less). If we assume the vertical to be 0 deg. ... a vertical stripe would appear at +45 deg. to that vertical on one lapel and at -45 deg. to it on the other. That makes for the appearance of symmetry about the 0 deg. vertical line. However, if we begin with the stripe running at 45 deg. to the 0 deg. vertical ... a +/-45 deg. change will render the stripe of one lapel at 90 deg. to vertical (the horizontal) and the other at the 0 deg. vertical.

The work around for this is to cut the cloth on the fold and reverse the top piece to the bottom, then cut the facings. This will give the stripe on the lapels the same angle. If you do this when cutting the coat fronts or the back the pattern would mirror each other and you would look like one huge herringbone pattern. I would definitely cut the lapels for the pattern to run in the same direction but I am unsure about cutting the jacket body that way.
post #94 of 281
Quote:
Originally Posted by yeah_ok View Post
OH MY GOD! These suits are truly, truly horrid. The colours of all those SB jackets are simply disgusting. Where in the world could you possible wear those? Maybe to the racquetball club or something. The diagonal stripes of the DB RA suit are horrid. Somebody cocked up a material purchase, and then you were sold a bill of goods, so they could off-load the fabric onto you. For fit, I certainly see nothing special. This is the famed "Savile Row"? The A&S SB jacket looks to be splitting at the seams. Or maybe you put on weight after they finished? Both of those DB suits look like you dropped a sack over your shoulders. The RA one in particular, makes you look like you're pregnant. And, as somebody politely asked already: what's up with the darts going right to the bottom? Was the tailor unable to cut the thing properly?? Guys, I'm sorry to be the one shouting that the emperor has no clothes. But come on. There must be $30k in suits in these pictures, and nothing to show for it. You would have been better off shopping at Macy's, and buying LSD with the change. At least you'd know when the fun was over...
Good morning, troll.
post #95 of 281
Quote:
Originally Posted by academe View Post
Good morning, troll.

+1 Lots of smoke but no light. (I think he'd like to be able to shop at Macy's)

post #96 of 281
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post
The work around for this is to cut the cloth on the fold and reverse the top piece to the bottom, then cut the facings. This will give the stripe on the lapels the same angle. If you do this when cutting the coat fronts or the back the pattern would mirror each other and you would look like one huge herringbone pattern. I would definitely cut the lapels for the pattern to run in the same direction but I am unsure about cutting the jacket body that way.

No. not the body.
post #97 of 281
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dopey View Post
You should be ashamed of yourself. Learn to sit on your hands.

Dopey, haven't you learned by now that I'm a terrible troll detector? I make no excuses for it, but it's just a sad flaw.
post #98 of 281
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post
Dopey, haven't you learned by now that I'm a terrible troll detector? I make no excuses for it, but it's just a sad flaw.

I will not lose faith in your ability to grow, though I am troubled by your own resignation. Buck up!!
post #99 of 281
Quote:
Originally Posted by yeah_ok View Post
Hey, cut him some slack for honesty.

Especially in tailors, we need honesty, which is why I'm flabbergasted that such creations could come out of our Mecca of sartorial ability.

Evidently, even Savile Row makes suits which don't fit, out of laughable material which would only be wearable with a red polyester afro wig, and making dodgy coverups of mistakes.

All for the low, low price of.....how much did these cost, again?

But sure, let's keep back-slapping each other. That'll give us all great information on buying clothes. Ayup.


Marc, is that you?
post #100 of 281
Quote:
Originally Posted by yeah_ok View Post
OH MY GOD!

These suits are truly, truly horrid.



This forum is much more sophisticated with its shoes than its clothes. The clothes don't look properly bespoke do they? Saville Row looks like it has gone down hill.
post #101 of 281
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Harry Lean View Post
This forum is much more sophisticated with its shoes than its clothes. The clothes don't look properly bespoke do they? Saville Row looks like it has gone down hill.

I dunno about that. I can't see myself wearing most of the shoes I see here. Too much emphasis on the shoe, too little on the outfit.
post #102 of 281
Quote:
Originally Posted by Harry Lean View Post
The clothes don't look properly bespoke do they? Saville Row looks like it has gone down hill.
I'd suggest looking at some of the older threads and the "what are you wearing right now" thread before you make any sweeping judgements about SR. Hard to make an informed decision based on a single recent thread that's thin on pictures. Not what I would call a "representative sample."
Quote:
Originally Posted by Harry Lean View Post
This forum is much more sophisticated with its shoes than its clothes.
I don't quite agree with you; the current discussion of shoes seems to be driven by the recent sales and acquisitions made by forum members, and probably just reflects current events, rather than deeper interests members may have. Take a look at the rather long (and sometimes repetitive) discussion about the suitability of pinstripes, for an example of obsessions with clothing minutae.
post #103 of 281
You know, at least this person I have sympathy for:
http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=61663

On the other hand, people who buy a half dozen hideous outfits off of Savile Row, then must find arcane arguments to defend them here, with discussions of angles of stripes, I feel pity for.

post #104 of 281
Quote:
Originally Posted by yeah_ok View Post
You know, at least this person I have sympathy for: http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=61663 On the other hand, people who buy a half dozen hideous outfits off of Savile Row, then must find arcane arguments to defend them here, with discussions of angles of stripes, I feel pity for.
Unless you have something interesting to say, why don't you keep quiet? We know what your opinion is, and now you're just being rude.
post #105 of 281
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post
I dunno about that. I can't see myself wearing most of the shoes I see here. Too much emphasis on the shoe, too little on the outfit.

Shoe posts (or for that matter, similar things like watch posts, etc.) are much less personal. When presented as objects, they are easier to discuss abstractly because it is more often about the maker than the wearer. This takes the emotion quotient one db down.

Presenting the whole, though, is frought with emotion for many, and not just for the OP. Amateur photographs, particularly self-portrature, almost always imbalances a look. Moreover, it is diffcult to convey how the whole looks and works in motion, and much easier to present how an object within that look (such as a shoe) appears.

So, one type of post inevitably dominates the other.

I have been trying to combine the two in my WAYWRN posts, but have only superficial success occasionally and failure mostly.

- B
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