Where's all the Savile Row stuff? - Page 2

This is a good point. When I was trying to educate myself about suit terminology and fit, some of the most helpful threads I found were on London Lounge where someone would post pics of suits or jackets from different makers. Done this way, it was fairly easy to see differences between them. I think iammatt had a thread over there like this with something like 5 different jackets.

My SR experience has been with Kilgour and their entry-level bespoke service. I prefer the military style and a one-button jacket, which is Kilgour's default house style. I was measured at their SR shop last fall during a layover in London for a business trip. Since I would be using their visiting tailor service, I requested to be fitted by their cutter, Campbell Carey, who visits Washington DC. I had my basted fitting in February and should receive the finished suit by the end of the month.

Nothing, the RJManton Q&A was great.... I just don't like to be a too much of a taker.

RSS had some wonderfully informative posts/pictures about his A&S, Huntsman and Richard Anderson clothes on Ask Kabbaz a few years ago.

I honestly think that stiffly posed pictures of someone in his bespoke suit are not that helpful.

Kuro, no worries. If you start to "Bresch out", we'll tell you. That said, I'm no expert on anything.

I would add that, even with the same tailor --and I am certainly not going to more than one at a time, for many reasons-- things change with time: the cutter will get a more precise idea of what fits you over several orders, so suit number 2will fit closer than suit no1, no 3 better than no 2 and so on... Also, he will refine his idea of what looks good on you and what you like (cloth weight, colour, etc...). Ditto of your tastes: with experience (ordering and wearing), you will acquire a better idea of what you like and what you think suits you (hopefully the tailor will agree...) and what you find useful.

A conscientious tailor will not want you to walk out with an ill-fitting suit. Mr. Munday (M & M/Jones Chalk & Dawson) likes me to wear a suit a couple of times at least , then bring it back for inspection. That led to one or two extra fittings on my first order, so he could tweak a few things. Time (for me) well spent.

Speaking for myself, many years ago, I used to hedge my bets and have trousers with both belt loops and brace buttons. Experience has shown me that I never need take my jacket off in public so I have dispensed with loops and only get braces (with a fishtail ?? waist back). The exception: a navy blazer with dark grey trousers, now in process: the trousers will have both Daks straps and brace buttons, because I might conceivably take the blazer off in summer. Slanted pokets I found too limiting so I only have one tweed suit and one tweed coat with them, both more than fifteen years old and I will not get more (I know one should never say never...). I always get the same pocket arrangement on a DB suit. I always get a waistcoat with a SB, and that is always 3-button. I could go on and bore you into slumber, but you get the idea.

All this evolution is based on an exchange of ideas with the cutter. Ask questions, make hints, but do pay attention to the tailor's response. If you feel he is resisting, then do not push too hard: he is the professional and knows wherof he speaks! Mutual trust built over time is what this is all about. Going back to my earlier post, this is why choosing your tailor carefully is so important.

I have blathered long enough.

Frog in Suit

A few years ago, an AAAC member named Scott posted pictures of some of his SR jackets. I liked them so much that I saved them and this looks like the perfect opportunity to put them up. Scott is no longer on the member list for AAAC, so I couldn't ask his permission and I can't find the thread where he posted his pictures. I hope he doesn't mind!

Anderson & Sheppard bespoke:



Dege & Skinner bespoke:



Huntsman bespoke:



Huntsman MTM:



Richard Anderson bespoke:

I think the one from Richard Anderson is quite nice looking but I dont care for the slanted pockets.

I actually like the hacking pockets. They make perfect sense with that sport coat as they lend a bit of tradition to the look, even if he'd never wear it on horseback. The waist suppression on most of those Savile Row jackets are quite nice!

Sometimes I feel that Scott... still walks among us...

Doesn't he go by the name RSS now?

Goddamnit.

Scott is a gentleman. I miss his insights and infectious civility.

- B

Very interesting pictures. If I had to choose, I would go for the Dege cut, but I really like the cloth on the A & S. coat. Two regrets: why are the coats 2 button only? I prefer 3 buttons which would show less shirt/tie. And why no DB? But that is just a question of (my) taste.
Thank you for the pictures.
Frog in Suit