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Brooks Brothers....Made In USA? - Page 2

post #16 of 17
To zipj83: The lining is machine sewn made to look like handsewn.  It is similar to machine pic stitching on the lapel which is made to look like hand sewn lapel edges. Hand sewn linings have more irregular stitching. Many of the Italian suits employ this device.  Generally, the English and American don't.  They either have hand-stitches or no stitching at these points. Does this detract from the garment?  No.  Indeed, it is a nice touch.   Is there any greater good served by a hand-sewn lining?  Probably not.  I have bespoke suits with and without the hand-sewn lining.  I believe that it's an aesthetic issue solely. To Alexis: At Brooks MTM I believe that you can order a specific lining rather than a complimentary or standard coat lining.  My salesman showed me one of his customer's coats which had two Nicole Miller silk scarves as coat linings.  I have seen some use Hermes scarves.  As you can imagine, a couple of Hermes scarves can add considerably to the cost.
Brummel: much thanks for your post. interesting. what other areas of the coat would you deem hand-stiching to be purely aesthetic? (and I suppose it might matter whether the fabric was heavy or not).
post #17 of 17
Dear Horace: I believe that hand stitching is mostly aesthetic on the edge of the collar, lapels, and pockets. It serves no real purpose. I believe that you do not need stitching at all, and that those edges can be either machine stitched or bluff stitched. It can be argued that these areas need hand stitching in order to be more flexible in that hand stitching is more flexible at areas which are rounded or curved (e.g., the collar and lapels). In comparison, the straight seams of the trousers can be machine stitched, and the bespoke boys from Savile Row and Napoli all machine stitch the long seams of the slacks and the coat. However, this little detail of pick-stitching makes a suit look better than RTW. It is a signal that this is a handmade suit and that the wearer is a man of importance. It might serve little function, but its aesthetic/sociological/psychological purpose is sound.
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