Steed (E. DeBoise) Bespoke Suit and Dinner Jacket/Trousers Fittings

rnoldh · Apr 15, 2008

Very nice overall.

I'm surprised that no one has commented on the DJ.

I love it and I think the shoulders are particularly nice from both the front and the back, with the back looking especially good. The DJ is quite flattering to you as it should be.

voxsartoria · Apr 15, 2008

Originally Posted by mmkn

Either way, may I ask what the cloth is? I'm considering between the Barathea and a lighter weight (i.e. slightly cooler) black Faille weave for my Dinner Jacket and Trousers in the same styling as yours.

- M

The dinner jacket and trousers are in a black Thomas Fisher 11 ounce Barathea, from Huddersfield.

I looked at lighter fabrics, and for me, an 11 ounce was the lightest that I could accept with sufficient drape for something semi-formal.

This replaces a RTW DB RLPL/Chester Barrie number with some unknown super 140s cloth...I look okay in it, but the fabric became annoying.

- B

voxsartoria · Apr 15, 2008

Originally Posted by rnoldh

Very nice overall.

I'm surprised that no one has commented on the DJ.

I love it and I think the shoulders are particularly nice from both the front and the back, with the back looking especially good. The DJ is quite flattering to you as it should be.

Thank you, R.

I do not think that I could justify more than one set of bespoke dinner clothes (I have three or four RTW), and so I thought carefully about how I would be likely to wear it. I realized that I would most likely be wearing it casually, so the relative informality of a DB with a soft turndown collar seemed to fit the bill the best.

It will be tested out first early summer, when some friends and we will be traveling to London and Paris. I have convinced everyone that we will dress for dinner at every three star restaurant...imagine that: Americans in dinner dress, not for any event, but just to have dinner.

I suspect they will still stick us on the second floor at L'Astrance, but still, one can only try.

- B

A Y · Apr 15, 2008

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

I do think, nonetheless, there is quite a bit of shaping to a Scholte-derived coat that its reputation for being draped and sweater-y overshadows in the general imagination.

+1. As seen in the various Rubinaccis and the A&S alumni work posted, drape coats have quite a bit of shape to them, and are anything but a formless blob. I'm always amazed at how much the coat takes its shape on the body compared to how it slouches on a hanger.

--Andre

The Doctor · Apr 15, 2008

Originally Posted by mmkn

Interesting, as Jon Green just told me that the person making my next suit won't be Edward Sexton (as he's busy launching a possible RTW line) but someone just as artisanal who is new to the team, and Mr. DeBoise just posted on London Lounge (as The Doctor I believe) that he met Jon this past January . . . I'm connecting the dots for myself here . . .

- M

My brother John might be working with Jon Green but haven't spoke to him recently about it, so not sure what the situation is.

John DeBoise has his own company, Castle tailors (based in the city of London, next to Simpsons, in Castle court) and has associations with Chittleborough & Morgan in Savile Row.

TheFoo · Apr 16, 2008

Bill, I don't know how I managed to miss this thread! I especially like how the dinner jacket is shaping up, though both look very nice. When I have one made for me, I'll have to strongly consider going the double-breasted route. It's interesting to note how different our respective tailors shape things even though both use a drape cut. In general, it appears that there's more roundness in my jacket, while yours have crisper, straighter lines. I think the treatments of the chest plane are particularly indicative. Gotta love variety

.

voxsartoria · Apr 16, 2008

Originally Posted by mafoofan

Bill, I don't know how I managed to miss this thread! I especially like how the dinner jacket is shaping up, though both look very nice. When I have one made for me, I'll have to strongly consider going the double-breasted route. It's interesting to note how different our respective tailors shape things even though both use a drape cut. In general, it appears that there's more roundness in my jacket, while yours have crisper, straighter lines. I think the treatments of the chest plane are particularly indicative. Gotta love variety

.

Thank you, M.

When do you get your DB suit? I should be getting the dinner jacket and trousers before June...it would be interesting to compare DB styles.

-B

TheFoo · Apr 16, 2008

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

Thank you, M.

When do you get your DB suit? I should be getting the dinner jacket and trousers before June...it would be interesting to compare DB styles.

-B

Unfortunately, not for a long time. They aren't going to cut the buttonholes until I do a fitting, which won't be until September in Naples. I imagine the suit won't be done for at least several weeks after that.

voxsartoria · Apr 16, 2008

Originally Posted by mafoofan

Unfortunately, not for a long time. They aren't going to cut the buttonholes until I do a fitting, which won't be until September in Naples. I imagine the suit won't be done for at least several weeks after that.

I plan on doing a mid to light gray DB suit for the fall, maybe in Golden Bale unless I decide on a more interesting woolen flannel, so we might have an even closer comparison then.

Are you doing patch or flapped out pockets? And what did you decide on the button configuration finally?

- B

TheFoo · Apr 16, 2008

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

I plan on doing a mid to light gray DB suit for the fall, maybe in Golden Bale unless I decide on a more interesting woolen flannel, so we might have an even closer comparison then.

Are you doing patch or flapped out pockets? And what did you decide on the button configuration finally?

- B

I think flap pockets. We hadn't discussed button configuration--I assumed that would be determined at the first fitting. Maybe I should find out about that . . .

Artisan Fan · Apr 16, 2008

I like these suits. Edwin is a quality guy. Great choice in tailor.

dopey · Apr 16, 2008

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

I plan on doing a mid to light gray DB suit for the fall, maybe in Golden Bale unless I decide on a more interesting woolen flannel, so we might have an even closer comparison then. Are you doing patch or flapped out pockets? And what did you decide on the button configuration finally? - B
I lobby for the Harrisons light/mid gray flannel. Wearing it today. I find it super versatile.

voxsartoria · Apr 16, 2008

Originally Posted by mafoofan

I think flap pockets. We hadn't discussed button configuration--I assumed that would be determined at the first fitting. Maybe I should find out about that . . .

I truly think you could pull off a 4/2:

- B

voxsartoria · Apr 16, 2008

Originally Posted by Artisan Fan

I like these suits. Edwin is a quality guy. Great choice in tailor.

Thank you. And yes he is.

- B

voxsartoria · Apr 16, 2008

Originally Posted by dopey

I lobby for the Harrisons light/mid gray flannel. Wearing it today. I find it super versatile.

That was exactly what I was looking at on Monday as an alternative to my tentative thoughts on getting it in Golden Bale.

What do you think about patch pockets?

- B

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