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RTW shoe last comparison thread - Page 3

post #31 of 53
Thanks a lott. Really appreciated the Lobb 8695 vs Lobb 7000 Grenson 92 vs C&J 337 EG 606 'F' & Tricker's 4537 '5'
post #32 of 53
Martegani 75 last vs. the 46



75 - Siena

46
post #33 of 53
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sator View Post
Allen Edmonds Nr 5 vs Edward Green 202:


Digging up this thread to add another side-by-side shot: EG Chelsea 202 last size 8.5/9D on the left vs. AE Park Ave #5 last size 9D on the right.




Observations:

-The Chelsea is actually longer than the PA (strictly comparing the uppers), but EGs are known to have a welt and sole that are trimmed very close to the uppers, whereas AE are on the opposite end of the spectrum.
-The widest point (ball of foot) is further forward on the Chelsea than the PA and it is also wider than the PA at its widest point.
-While the #5 last is AE's longest, I consider the PA to fit very tts. Otoh, I would need an 8/8.5D on the 202, perhaps even an 8/8.5C.
post #34 of 53
^ PA (and its cousin the Fifth Avenue) are my favourite AEs of all time (well apart from my 2 vintage pairs).

The above picture is DEVASTATING. Cue people coming in and saying photos are '2D' and you need to see the shoe in real life to appreciate the '3D' nature of them.
post #35 of 53
I'm not an AE fan in general, but that picture really shows that some AE shoes compare well with the more expensive English brands. However, what kills it for me is the huge amount of excess sole material around the edge. If AE could trim that down, this would be a killer killer shoe.
post #36 of 53
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joenobody0 View Post
I'm not an AE fan in general, but that picture really shows that some AE shoes compare well with the more expensive English brands. However, what kills it for me is the huge amount of excess sole material around the edge. If AE could trim that down, this would be a killer killer shoe.

Fwiw, Nick V. of B. Nelson says he often sands down welts/soles on AE shoes for his customers (would love to see a pic Nick). Likely something any competent cobbler can do.
post #37 of 53
I'm really glad to hear that! I was thinking of sending a pair of Aldens his way for a metal toe tap and they could use a trimming for sure! Do you have any idea on the cost? On edit: Does the AE shoe have a 360 degree welt? If so, you can't compare sleekness without photographing that!
post #38 of 53
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joenobody0 View Post
On edit: Does the AE shoe have a 360 degree welt? If so, you can't compare sleekness without photographing that!

Most AEs, including the PA, have a 360 welt, resulting in a huge flat and wide heel stack. They now produce a limited number of styles on their (still fairly) new 270 welt.
post #39 of 53
Ok, that's what I thought. That just kills kills kills any comparison between that EG and AE shoe. IMO a cap toe balmoral with a 360 welt is all kinds of wrong.

Maybe AE will transition this shoe to the 270 welt in future. That move and a trimmed down sole/welt would produce a winner. Anyone at AE listening?
post #40 of 53
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joenobody0 View Post
Ok, that's what I thought. That just kills kills kills any comparison between that EG and AE shoe. IMO a cap toe balmoral with a 360 welt is all kinds of wrong.

Maybe AE will transition this shoe to the 270 welt in future. That move and a trimmed down sole/welt would produce a winner. Anyone at AE listening?

Not according to AE's CEO
http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/f...87#post1037987

Quote:
We have no intention to change current 360 welted shoes to 270, and we'll be introducing both new 360 welts and new 270 welts throughout 2010. Allen Edmonds used to only offer 360 welts, but we've added 270 construction to our arsenal starting with the introduction of the Executive Collection mid-2009. Back when 270 welts were held together with a steel shank, there was a major comfort advantage to the 360 welt construction. However, we're now able to use a flexible fiberglass shank in our 270 welts, so we now choose the heel construction that best fits the styling objective we're looking to achieve. Some shoes just look better with 360 and others with 270.
post #41 of 53
Quote:
Originally Posted by AE CEO View Post
so we now choose the heel construction that best fits the styling objective we're looking to achieve. Some shoes just look better with 360 and others with 270

Is there anyone that would argue the PA wouldn't look better on the 270 welt?
post #42 of 53
Can any of the resident experts explain to me why the shank material influences the design wrt 270 vs 360 degree welting? Thanks.
post #43 of 53
post #44 of 53
Quote:
Originally Posted by Redwoood View Post
Can any of the resident experts explain to me why the shank material influences the design wrt 270 vs 360 degree welting?

I think, the thread AE & 360-degree welting covers both sides.
post #45 of 53
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claus View Post
I think, the thread AE & 360-degree welting covers both sides.

interesting, thanks, I figured it would be something like that.
Now of course, thats what AE says.
I wonder what our resident shoe makers have to say.
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