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Allen flusser shop and shoes in nyc

post #1 of 11
Thread Starter 
I just returned from a trip to NYC and based on the advice of forum members had a very enjoyable shopping experience. I was looking for EG shoes.  Saks, RL and BG had some, but frankly not the selection I was looking for.  Paul Stuart carries Grenson built on American lasts to their own designs.  The Paul Stuart website shows a very limited number of what is available, and I purchased a pair of cognac oxfords with a quirky insert on the side.  About $600 and have them shipped if you live outside NY and save the sales tax. I also decided to visit the Flusser shop which is on the fourth floor of a nondescript building in midtown.  Very nice, but rahter small.  Flusser has a program with EG where he designed shoes on an American last and EG makes them.  Waiting time is about 12 weeks.  You choose the color from a book of leather samples.  I decided on a low vamp monk-strap.  You try on samples to get the right fit.  Cost is $1200 with 50% down. Very nice people there and they said Flusser himself visits the shop almost daily.  All suits and shirts are now bespoke only.  Suits start at $3200 and are made in the city.  Shirts are $350 and up, with a minimum of four.  Everybody seemed to be very happy to be out of Saks.  The only disadvantage I saw was that they have books of fabrics for the most part, rather than bolts of cloth for both suits and shirts.  I have a hard time figuring out what the shirt or suit will look like when the sample is so small. For the other stores, I was disappointed.  Everybody seems to carry the same things, and I could have stayed in Houston and gone to Saks or NM.  This was especially true of the RL flagship store.  Same old stuff.   Thanks to forum members for an enjoyable trip.
post #2 of 11
Quote:
For the other stores, I was disappointed.  Everybody seems to carry the same things, and I could have stayed in Houston and gone to Saks or NM.  This was especially true of the RL flagship store.  Same old stuff.  
It would be interesting to know where you went that didn't impress you.  I'm attaching a link to a pretty comprehensive thread from Modern Man that sort of kicks around the state of upper end shopping in NYC.  There's some discussion there about what's unique and worth visiting.  Might be useful for future trips. http://www.modernman.com/forums/DCForumID3/2182.html
post #3 of 11
My tailor in NYC actually ran Flusser's tailoring operation years ago when Flusser was in his prime. Problem with Flusser is he is not a tailor and his garments are made in Brooklyn so there's no hand-on oversight of the making of the garment and quality control is left to the contracting factory, and the factory workers who don't even know who you are. So, you're getting a factory-made garment, and paying an exhorbitant price because some self-described "fashion expert" sews his name inside the jacket. Not my cup of tea. Just my $.02 Marc
post #4 of 11
Quote:
About $600 and have them shipped if you live outside NY and save the sales tax.
But you paid the sales tax in Texas, didn't you?
Quote:
I also decided to visit the Flusser shop which is on the fourth floor of a nondescript building in midtown.  Very nice, but rahter small.  Flusser has a program with EG where he designed shoes on an American last and EG makes them.  Waiting time is about 12 weeks.  You choose the color from a book of leather samples.  I decided on a low vamp monk-strap.  You try on samples to get the right fit.  Cost is $1200 with 50% down.
That's a pretty hefty premium over EG shoes in the US (~$700 for ready made, $750 to $800 for special orders). Aside from the American last, is there anything special about these shoes vis-a-vis regular EGs?
Quote:
For the other stores, I was disappointed.  Everybody seems to carry the same things, and I could have stayed in Houston and gone to Saks or NM.  This was especially true of the RL flagship store.  Same old stuff.  
I know what you mean. I had expected, for example, that the Zegna store or the Ferragamo store would carry a more comprehensive selection than is available in Houston, but this was not the case. I got to see some brands that aren't carried in Houston (EG shoes, the handmade Santoni shoes, Lattanzi shoes, Stefano Bi shoes, Attolini, etc.), but there really wasn't much more selection in the brands that are carried here. The flagship RL store carried Purple Label shoes, which you don't see much in Houston, but that was about all that was special.
post #5 of 11
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the comments all of which were instructive. I only went to Brooks, Saks, the RL flagship store, and Bergdof because I was in town for just a short time.  I like English rather than Italian and tend to be pretty conservative. With the exception of the Flusser shop, all of the EG selections were very limited.  Flusser's designs are not quite as "sturdy" as the regular EGs I saw elsewhere.  I realize the premium is stiff, but I expect these shoes to last forever, so that makes up for the cost. Brooks Brothers is just a mess.  I was hoping that they would go back to some of the wonderful shirts they used to carry, but despite the new owners, it didn't look like much had changed.  The RL store didn't have much variety in the Purple Label shoes.  The other stores all carried the same brands of shirts at the same prices, so why not just shop where I live. Thanks for the info on how Flusser makes his suits.  I would like to support his efforts at promoting English styles, but given the cost and not having whole bolts of cloth available, I can't see it. Paul Stuart had very nice shirts and as I said before, carries shoes with a twist in the styling.  Their catalogs and web sites don't reflect the variety you can find in the store. Thanks again for the advice.  Next trip I will try to make it to Barney's and maybe splurge on some bespoke shirts.
post #6 of 11
Quote:
With the exception of the Flusser shop, all of the EG selections were very limited.  Flusser's designs are not quite as "sturdy" as the regular EGs I saw elsewhere.  I realize the premium is stiff, but I expect these shoes to last forever, so that makes up for the cost.
I have heard that Flusser's EG shoes are made up with the beveled waist that you usually only see on bespoke British shoes (and the most expensive John Lobb models). Is this true? BTW, what are the details of the shoes that you ordered (style, leather, finishing details, etc.)?
post #7 of 11
Thread Starter 
Flusser's EG shoes do have a beveled waist.  As I mentioned, his designs are not as "stolid" as the regular EG.  I went looking for a pair of loafers, but purchased a single monkstrap shoe in a cognac leather.  Very low vamp.  The sample was in black suede and it reminded me of an opera pump. Actually I liked the A Harris Vass shoes as much as anything I saw in NY.  At the NY prices, it almost pays to take a long weekend in Budapest and get your shoes there.[quote]
post #8 of 11
Flusser may be an authority on clothing traditions, but I think that he has one of the worst hairstyles that I have ever seen.
post #9 of 11
Quote:
Flusser's EG shoes do have a beveled waist.
Ah, that would account for the price. I wonder if EG does beveled waist shoes for anyone else.
Quote:
 As I mentioned, his designs are not as "stolid" as the regular EG.  I went looking for a pair of loafers, but purchased a single monkstrap shoe in a cognac leather.  Very low vamp.  The sample was in black suede and it reminded me of an opera pump.
Sounds beautiful. Let us know how they come out. Just out of curiosity, did they hazard a guess as to when the shoes would be ready?
Quote:
Actually I liked the A Harris Vass shoes as much as anything I saw in NY.  At the NY prices, it almost pays to take a long weekend in Budapest and get your shoes there.
Believe me, I've thought of doing exactly that. Of course, there's more to Budapest than just shoes.
post #10 of 11
Quote:
Actually I liked the A Harris Vass shoes as much as anything I saw in NY. At the NY prices, it almost pays to take a long weekend in Budapest and get your shoes there.
I am going to England in early December on a trip to meet my wife in London; quel surprise, I managed to schedule a visit to Budapest en route. Roundtrip airfare to include Budapest only added $100 to the cost of the overall ticket on British Airways. If anyone is going to travel to Europe this winter, it's definitely worth considering (assuming the shoes turn out as advertised.) I'll post an update when I return in mid-December.
post #11 of 11
Suggestion to Mack for his next trip to NYC: A must-visit shop is Davide Cenci, my favorite in NYC and the US. It's a very distinguished, old-line "haberdashery" which has its roots in Rome and the Madison Ave., NY, store is the sole US location. Very pricey, however they have 2 sales a year in which everything is marked down 30% or more. This is not Versace or Gucci Italian clothes, but conservative almost Ivy League Italian, the style of an Italian aristocrat--tweed sport coats, wide-whale corduroy trousers, flannel trousers, jackets. Cenci often has its own twist, such as cashmere corduroy trousers or a down-filled suede parka--Imagine Cortina, in the Italian Alps, or Como during the Summer, and you have the Cenci look--taste and style. Brands include Loro Piana, Avon Celli knitwear, JP Tod footwear, as well as some of the most original, imaginative, and wonderful outerware--leather, shearling, suede. Cenci sells very high-end off-the-peg suits and sport coats as well as an excellent MTM program with Belvest and other resources as manufacturers. Cenci is also one of the oldest shirtmakers in Italy, in fact their origins are in shirtmaking. Whenever I visit Davide Cenci, I just feel good, even if I don't make a purchase. And, when I wear clothes from Cenci, I know I'm standing out in the crowd. "Davide" or David Cenci runs the NYC shop and is an excellent source of guidance and advice. Marc
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