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fusing question...

post #1 of 23
Thread Starter 
over on axe andy someone posted a thread about someone New Delhi making suits and jackets really cheap. on a whim i emailed thinking that i wouldn't hear back but they replied. was thinking of having something wild made, but i posed the question on canvassing and here was the response: Dear Mr.Discostu004, By "fully canvassed", do you mean non-fused, hand basted canvass lining or do you mean fully lined? We can make non-fused sport coats since the fabrics are thicker for sport coats. However, for the lightweight suit fabrics we find that the non-fused method doesn't produce a very neat appearance in the final product. It also costs more ($90 for fused tailoring and $135 for non-fused tailoring). I'll scan some samples and send them to you soon. Regards, Sachin Vaish which is the best of the options given?
post #2 of 23
This is an odd response. I'm not sure what he means. If I had to guess, I would say that they use a very rough or heavy or thick (or all of the above) canvas on their hand-canvassed suits. This would indeed make a lightweight fabric look stiff and possibly "lumpy." However, the remedy -- use lighter canvas -- is so obvious that I can't imagine this is what they mean. Unless, like some tailors, they simply don't like padstitching lightweight cloth, which is admittedly a pain in the a$$. But, come on, these guys are in Delhi, they ought to have extensive experience working with lightweight cloth.
post #3 of 23
Why "non-fused method doesn't produce a very neat appearance in the final product" ? Ironing; the final touch of a tailor, especially in a fully canvassed coat, and a hard part to do, also you need a special heavy iron.
post #4 of 23
There were actually some threads on this a ways back (too lazy to search). Anyhoo, there was the opinion that for lightweight fabrics (8 oz or so), that fusing was actually better under some circumstances. I think it had to do with humidity and how the fabric responded to it where fusing would actually hold up better than a good ol' hand-stitched canvas.
post #5 of 23
Yes , some of the recent lightweight fabric ("tasmanian", super-super-super-something) are actually thought for indutrial construction of suits, that is iron press (and not hand-ironing) and fused canvass.
post #6 of 23
Very interesting. I wrote to Vaish but didn't get a response. Did you only ask about whether or not the suits were fully canvased? As I'm not going to New Delhi anytime soon I was hoping I could get Vaish to copy a jacket. $135 is a great price for that amount of work.
post #7 of 23
Thread Starter 
i simply emailed him and said i was NOT going to be there, but could he make a jkt based on measurements and he replied he could, then said he would scan some swatches. i replied back something about canvassing and could i pick things like 1/4 lining, ticket pocket etc and that was the response i got. pretty quick response too
post #8 of 23
Very cool, discostu. I would be very interested in hearing how the experience goes, if you choose to have Vaish make something for you. I'm thinking maybe a two piece seersucker for next summer.
post #9 of 23
Is it $135 plus fabric?
post #10 of 23
Thread Starter 
i figure if it's cheap i could get something loud and garish with a goofy lining.
post #11 of 23
I would guess it's $135 excluding material costs. Vaish has pricing details here: http://www.indiamart.com/vaish/ And in addition to fabric from European mills, they stock Indian material from Raymond: http://www.raymondindia.com/oc_divis...uctprofile.htm I agree. A price like that is begging for an outlandish, or entirely unnecessary garment.
post #12 of 23
Thread Starter 
how much is a rupee?
post #13 of 23
2.2 cents. or 1 USD = 45 rupees.
post #14 of 23
That was going to be my next question, along with How much fabric am I going to need for a suit, or for an overcoat, in meters?
post #15 of 23
Thread Starter 
what is this "super 150s blended with polyester"? is this a souped-up john travolta circa 1977 look?
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